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BDO Horse skill change coupons Guide By: SillySin


All the following info were collected through personal experience and findings so as every aspect of BDO,
rng is still rng.

Guide goal: 

This guide aims to help players to spend less coupons (cash) as possible to obtain their desired horse skills on their horse.

What horse tier to spend coupons on?

  • Any tier if only you were looking for a good racing horse of that tier and every tier has specific few horses with good stats so make sure the horse is one of those first and has as much total skills possible ( refer to List ).
  • Any Tier T8 horse with +14 skills (total skills) if you were aiming for a courser in order to awaken into T9 or for personal use.

What can be done to ease the coupons process:

For T8s horses and only T8s, there is a special method while levelling to prepare for the end game coupons gambling at lv30, many breeders use this method to encourage a horse to learn as much as possible skills before lv30 since the gambling game will be less frustrating and less cost of course as the more skills the horse has the less probabilities you have,

Before getting into this method, take a look at this pic of skills values to have an understanding of how horse skills supposedly to function ( horse skills values ), while the horse is being levelled, horse is getting both horse xp and skill xp and that is where the horse costume other bonus (supposedly) to work increasing chances of learning skills so most breeders including myself use a method while levelling T8s that aimed to be coursers (not any T8 if you already have a courser) which is :

  • While levelling the T8 horse, every time the horse gets either Fore chop, hind kick or caution then use a coupon to swap it (be careful, if the horse has all 3 then proceed with the coupon as there is no risk of rotating between those but if the horse has 2 of those already then do not use a coupon as it is more likely giving you the 3rd (bad lets call it)

Example : horse has hind kick , fore chop, caution? Then use a coupon .

Horse has hind kick, fore chop? Do not use coupon as caution might rotate.
or use if you like gambling.

Note: make sure to fs (hope) on S : sideways or S : Insta acc if missing while using this method to earn fs (hopes) from that moment and might get lucky and get them!!

  • Using (Premium horse skin coupon) at lv29 in case of emergency (desperate) for more total skills in case horse didn’t get above 14 or 15 skills, this skin has a chance to grant an extra skill or not (personally tested 1:1 chance).

The End game gambling coupons at lv30:

Now hopefully your T8 horse is ready with good amount of skills (total) or your racing horse was smart (don’t use coupons while levelling for any tier below 8) to start the coupons gambling, also you got by now an understanding of horse skills values, few tips below might help you a fortune at this stage :

  • Fore chop and hin kick/caution are common so having them by your side is good while playing the coupon game at this stage till you have what you need or you are forced to swap them (eventually you want to get rid of fore chop/caution if you are using the horse cuz they are cancer to have).
  • The game designed to stop showing bad skills after 8-10 (still rng) fs/hopes according to patch notes from kr so having S : fore chop & S : S hind kick in your side (learned) is good cuz they are considered good skills despite they are useless so you don’t want the game to give you those as good skills.
  • Make sure to fs/hope on the skills most difficult to get and don’t swap the fs cuz it will be a waste.

May the RNG be with you and sorry for long read, won’t give you a potato cuz we don’t want to have a potato horse to gamble coupons with.

Look at my horse, my horse is amazing xd http://imgur.com/a/ijCFg

T8s coursers

Uploaded Mar 7 2017

For T9, use this https://docs.google.com/document/d/1C3pile22neKBnWt5Yydijxpq9mccnK840H9J_QCnLas/edit

(credit to horse community discord for the t9 guide above)

BDO The Big Farming Guide By: Not_Alice


Here is my guide about farming and everything you need to know about it.

  1. How to Start a farm
  2. What should i plant on my farm?
  3. Loot you get from farming.
  4. What does Temperature, Humidity, and Groundwater mean?
  5. Do i need scarecrows, waterways, fertilizer?
  6. Should i use workers to take care of my farm?
  7. Do i get any benefits from a higher profession level?

1.How to start a farm.

To start a farm you need a fence there are 4 types of fences:
Small Fence for 3CP with 4 slots. (Obtainable from Enzo, Difry Hussey, Mael Costa)
Plain Fence for 6CP with 7 slots. (Obtainable from Mercianne Moretti, Paola Toscani, Goolie Gianin, Norma Leight
Strong Fence for 10CP with 10slots. (Obtainable from Flaviano, Geranoa, Lashir)
Old Moon Fence (master 1 or higher) for 10CP with 10 slots BUT with the size of a 4 slot fence!!!

You may have noticed that the smaller fences have a better slot to CP ratio, however you can only have a maximum of 10 fences.

1.1 Where to set up a fence.
Plants need water so plant your fence at a place with a high groundwater/a rainy area, everywhere around Heidel, Velia and most regions around Calpheon are perfect.
(Click on picture for full size)


2.What should i plant on my farm?

The most people plant crops for their own use (alchemy, cooking), so plan on what you can use it.
If you are only interested in quick profit, special strawberry is what you want, they are used to upgrade alchemy stones of life (since they give the most exp) and also for several things in cooking and therefore sell very well.
High-quality sunflower (for cooking) and some mushrooms, for example hump mushroom/ purple mushroom (breeding only for fruit + t9 mats) are also popular.

3. Loot you get from farming.

From Harvesting
You get 60-80 (70 average) normal crops, 40-60 (50 average) high quality and 20-40 (30 average) special quality crops from harvesting a plant that takes 1 slot, (this is doubled for crops that need 2 slots).
You also have a chance for extra loot that gives you an additional 1-5 crops.
Mysterious Seed*

From Breeding:
1-3 (1.6 average) seeds of the same quality or higher. (mostly 1 or 2 seeds getting 3 is rather rare)(even if your plant has rotted it still gives you 1-3 seeds).
Magical Seed* (artisan 1 or higher)
Mysterious Seed**
Fruits, here a list of which fruits you get from which plants:
[​IMG] Fruit of Crimson Flame: Garlic, Hot Pepper, Pepper, Olives, Pumpkin
[​IMG] Fruit of Abundance: Sunflower, Strawberry, Garlic, Onion
[​IMG] Fruit of Nature: Carrot, Barley, Sweet Potatoe, Potatoe, Acacia, Dalvenia Alrea, Fig, Freekeh, Leccinum, Nolia, Nutmeg, Pie Mushroom, Purple Mushroom, Penestraria, Star Anise, Teff
[​IMG] Fruit of the Sun: Corn, Wheat, Tomato, Paprika,
[​IMG] Fruit of Magic Power: Emperor Mushroom, Fortuneteller Mushroom, Hump Mushroom, Tiger Mushroom
[​IMG] Fruit of Enchantment: (All herbs) Dry Mane Grass, Fire Flake Flower, Silk Honey Grass, Silver Azaleah, Sunrise Herb
[​IMG] Fruit of Perfection: Arrow Mushroom, Bluffer Mushroom, Cloud Mushroom, Fog Mushroom
[​IMG] Fruit of Destruction: Amanita Mushroom, Ancient Mushroom, Ghost Mushroom, Dwarf Mushroom, Sky Mushroom

From Removing Pests:
Caterpillar, Spirit’s Leaf, Female Kermes, Mysterious Seed*, Hard Black Crystal Shard, Sharp Black Crystal Shard

From Pruning:
1-10 Weeds, Twig, Monk’s Branch, Mysterious Seed*, Hard Black Crystal Shard, Sharp Black Crystal Shard

*Magical Seed (artisan 1 or higher): Obtainable from breeding special seeds/magical seeds, takes up 5 slots and gives 5 times the harvest (good for lazy people!)

**Mysterious Seed: Shake (process) the mysterious seed with any special seed to receive the respective mysterious seed of x.
This seed takes 5 slots but yields 7 times as much as a normal plant if you harvest it. However if you breed it you will NOT get any seeds, but you will get a few fruits of x instead.


4. What does Temperature, Humidity, and Groundwater mean?

Temperature=gives the % amount by how much your plant grows in 5 minutes.
The growth greatly varies if the temperature isn’t optimal, so make sure that your plants have it nice and cozy.
(example special strawberry)
Good Temperature = 5h 12m 30sec
Cold Temperature = 16h 40m
Warm Temperature = 10h 25m

Humidity = gives the % chance of your plants getting blighted by insects/pests every 5 minutes.
(example special dry mane grass)

Groundwater = is very important for your plants without water your moisture level will sink and if it reaches 0 your plants rot and will yield 50% less.
So always be sure to set up your fences at a place with enough water!

5. Do i need scarecrows, waterways, fertilizer?

Scarecrows keep birds away, but the damage the birds do is really insignificant, so you rather use that slot for another plant.
Waterways reduce the Water/Moisture consumption by 50% which is good in dry regions, however if you have enough groundwater you won’t need them.
Fertilizer increase the growing speed of all nearby plants by 20% for a maximum of 1 hour.

6.Should i use workers to take care of my farm?

No, you should not, workers can’t gather Hard/Sharp Shards, they pretty much always give you weeds and consume a huge amount of beer, i don’t recommend it.

7. Do i get any benefits from a higher profession level?

You will consume less energy and the time required for pruning/removing petsts/harvesting/breeding seeds will be reduced.
You won’t get more hard/sharp shards.

If you have any questions, concerns or complains let me know.

Cheers, Not_Alice

Rainbow Six Siege Jackal Guide By: Robospartan0603


DLC Operators are generally going to be good in most situations. Whether you’re using real money to buy these guys, getting them through the season pass, or grinding for renown to get them to keep your free-2-play name, they’re going to be more fun to play than the regular cheap operators. While all operators have useful abilities in different situations, I’ve found through experience that the DLC operators are much more exciting to use.

Disclaimer: I realize that what I’m putting in this article has probably been mentioned before. This is my first post, and I wanted to talk about how great this operator is. This may be helpful to those of you wanting to know which operator you should get either with your hard-earned renown or your rainbow six credits. For those of you with the season pass, you don’t have to worry about these questions; just sit back, relax, and read on. Hopefully you enjoy this.

I’ve recently picked up Jackal with my renown. I’m a hard-core free-2-play, and I’m working on getting all of the operators with renown. I had thought long and hard about which operator I should get, and I had narrowed it down to Buck and Jackal. There were multiple upsides to both operators, as well as downfalls that I had to consider. I looked at it like this:

Buck: A well rounded operator suited to all play styles and conditions. He has the ability to engage enemies from all ranges, mainly because of his effectively deadly Skeleton Key under barrel shotgun. It’s raw killing power and blatant utility make Buck a good choice in any situation. His ability to open up murder holes in destructible surfaces and quickly switch to his primary weapon earns him high marks in terms of power. His weapon choices are good; the CAMRS marksman rifle and C8-SFW are both powerful primaries, but they are the only two weapons he can choose from. His sidearm choices are also very limited, as his only sidearm is his Mk1 9mm. In the end, his limited weapon choices made him a step down from Jackal’s expansive loadout.

Now onto the main event. Jackal is a beast of an operator. His loadout is stacked with top tier weapons, whether you pick the C7E, PDW9, or ITA12L. His sidearms are also a spectacle, consisting of a great pistol and the first ever shotgun sidearm in the ITA12S. His gadgets are complementary to his loadout; breach charges are always useful for opening up new lines of sight as well as entry points, and smoke grenades are perfect for providing cover when extracting a hostage. His ability is not only useful to you, but the whole team. The ability to identify targets for your team is indispensable in a game that is based on knowing the enemy’s position, and the Eyenox Model III does this job perfectly. This is just a brief overview of Jackal; lets dive into the details.

Jackal, as we know, is the attack operator featured alongside Mira in the Operation Velvet Shell update. He is a 2 speed, 2 armor operator, making him one of the more versatile operators in the game. He can fit any play style you want him to, as his weapons allow him to excel in any situation, whether it be a long range engagement against a pesky spawnpeeker or a close quarters engagement with a sneaky roamer.

Lets talk about his weapons:

C7E: Arguably the best AR in the game, the C7E is a very powerful, versatile, and rewarding weapon to use. It’s fire rate of 800 makes it a useful tool to spray and pray, as well as unleash multiple concentrated bursts of bullets towards enemies. It’s effective at every range because of its ability to have an ACOG attached, as well as a flash hider and vertical grip. The recoil on the gun is nearly non existent; even with an ACOG, new players could handle it very well. The reload time is just over a second, making it incredibly reliable. This weapon will win you gunfights even when you enter it at lower HP than your opponent. Overall, this should be your go-to weapon when playing Jackal, as its ability to kill enemies quickly and ease of use makes it a top-tier choice.

PDW9: Another very powerful weapon in Jackal’s arsenal, the PDW9 is a sub-machine gun that shares the same rate of fire as the C7E. While the bullets don’t inflict as much damage as Jackal’s AR, which it shouldn’t, it makes up for in ammo capacity. This weapon’s drum mag holds 51 rounds, making it very effective when facing multiple enemies at once. While effective with an ACOG sight, I have found that it is much easier to control and feels better to use with a holographic sight. I would suggest using similar attachments on the PDW9 as you would the C7E, as they play similarly to each other with slight differences. Personally. I prefer the C7E, as it provides more of a punch that I’m looking for when I’m hunting down an enemy.

ITA12L: A good shotgun choice, the 12L is not used often by players simply because they have the ability to equip a short barrel variant of it as their secondary. While it is overshadowed, their is no doubt that this shotgun is high-tier; however, the fact that the Assault Rifle and SMG are available to Jackal, paired with the fact that shotguns are not popular picks during attack, make this weapon a lesser-used, but still effective primary. Very rarely have I seen this weapon used, but it is useful if played correctly.

USP40: Another unpopular choice overshadowed by another option in Jackal’s arsenal, the USP is an average sidearm with decent power and magazine capacity. I don’t find myself using it all that often, but it stands in as a useful tool now and then as a quick, quiet way to pick off a headshot. I suggest using a silencer on it to make this possible. However, I would not suggest this weapon over its counterpart, the ITA12S, which we will talk about now.

ITA12S: The short barrel variant of Jackal’s primary shotgun, this weapon provides the same stats and utility as the primary long-barrel variant at reduced ammo capacity. The ability to excel in any combat situation is a great asset, and this weapon makes it possible. The AR, paired with the 12S, makes for a deadly combination when hunting enemies using the Eyenox. With a loadout that consists of Jackal’s AR or SMG paired with the 12S makes Jackal very adaptable. He has been nicknamed Buck Jr. by some because of his ability to open up murder holes in walls and quickly fire through them with his AR. Overall, this is your best choice as a sidearm, as it allows Jackal to move freely around with a viable solution to any problem that arises.

Now that we’ve talked about his weapons, his gadgets are viable tools that compliment his loadout by offering him different ways to hunt down enemies. He has the ability to equip breach charges or smoke grenades, both of which make the job going in much easier. Which one you use depends on your play style; breach charges are better for getting close to the objective and harassing campers inside with your firepower, and smoke grenades are better to make quick work of roamers tracked on your eyenox. Personally, I prefer breach charges, as their ability to open up passages and lines of sight into new locations is something I like to have available to me when I enter the building. However, smoke grenades are also useful tools, especially when hunting for roamers who are forced to move when they become tracked.

Jackal has an impressive loadout that is incredibly effective at doing its job. However, the most useful tool available to Jackal is his Eyenox Model III, his special operator ability.

The Eyenox Model III is a very powerful component of Jackal’s gameplay. It provides a great amount of intel about the enemy team, including where an enemy is, who they are, and how recently there were at the location their footsteps were scanned at. To use it, you must have the visor activated, which allows you to see enemy footsteps. Footprints will be visible for 90 seconds, before the trace is lost and the tracks disappear. When you find footprints, you need to scan them using the Eyenox to get the ping on their location and the identification. The color of the footsteps will also provide information as to where they are; cooler colors such as blue and green indicate that they are old tracks, and the enemy is likely to be a considerable distance away, while warmer shades such as orange and red indicate that the enemy had been there recently, and that they are probably close to those footprints. Once scanned, you will get five total pings that reveal the location of the enemy’s footprints you just scanned. A small box will appear on your HUD that tells you who you are tracking as long as your visor is activated. The biggest part of this ability is that the entire team is able to see the location of the enemy you are hunting down, which could possibly save a teammate from being killed by a roamer. Spawnpeekers and roamers often find themselves killed by Jackal because they produce large mounts of tracks in easily accessible spots, mostly by exterior entrances. You can scan footsteps from roughly up to 7-10 feet away from you; it may not seem like a long distance, but you’ll be surprised if you’ve ever used him how far away you can be from tracks and still scan them. Another bonus is the ability to scan them from odd angles, such as through a small hole in a wall or beneath a barricade. Overall, this ability is incredibly useful for weeding out toxic peekers and roamers, as well as winning a one on one simply because you have a general idea of where the enemy is when you enter a room or peek around a wall.

And that about covers it. Let me know what you think of the article in the comments and if it was any use, consolation, or otherwise help for you or a friend! Also, feel free to ask questions in the comments, and I hope you truly have an awesome day! Thanks for spending your time reading this!

Rainbow Six Siege Echo Guide By: ilikesuushi


Echo is an extremely polarizing operator; some people (like me) absolutely love him while others consider him near useless. I’m here to help you understand when and why you should consider picking Echo and how to play him when you do.


  • Yokai is a menace for the attacking team; especially if you and your team are co-ordinated.
  • Two useful defensive gadgets in shield and wire combined with three armour makes him an excellent objective defender.
  • Bearing-9 is second only to the smg-11 in terms of SMGs.


  • He just simply doesn’t work on some map/game mode combinations.
  • Needs a good team to utilize his full potential.
  • Very difficult to play properly.
  • If you lose Yokai your usefulness drops quite substantially.
  • Yokai is a little buggy; surfaces it can’t stick to aren’t always obvious and some spots on certain maps makes it glitch out.



  • Supernova: Probably the worst shotgun in terms of combat (I much prefer the GSG-9’s or even the SAS’s) but pretty good at busting holes in walls. It also doesn’t come with much ammo for whatever reason. In coordinated matches this is the primary of choice due to its utility (breaking walls, opening hatches, making murder holes) but if you’re running solo or just starting off with Echo I wouldn’t recommend it.
  • MP5SD: A pretty good primary SMG that can be equipped with an ACOG just like the GIGN’s MP5. It does similar damage to the MP5 despite being silenced. The silencer is nice but it shouldn’t be a selling point.


  • P229: An okay pistol; I almost never use it though because it’s alternative is just so much better.
  • Bearing-9: Holy moly. This gun. It does the same damage as the smg-11 except it fires a bit slower but has more bullets. As powerful as the Smg-11 is; the bearing is almost as deadly in the right hands.


  • Deployable shield: Useful on some maps; not so much in others. I only take this if there’s a specific area I know ahead of time that needs to be blocked off (the fireplace in train museum on Kafe for example).
  • Barbed wire: Barbed wire wins games. Take it and put it near entrance points to the objective; sit back and let Yokai do the rest.

My loadout:

Primary: Usually MP5SD with ACOG/Vertical grip but I’ll take the supernova with a laser if I’m playing bomb and none of my teammates have impacts/shotguns.

Secondary: Bearing-9 with holo sight and flash hider.

Deployable: Almost always barbed wire.


  • Use Yokai for more than just objective defense. With good teammates you can use it like a shock drone; follow your roamers, scout out rooms with attackers, and disorient them to give your teammates an easy fight.
  • Echo is many times more useful on bomb than hostage or secure. Not only can Yokai stop defuser planting but playing the site retake game is a lot easier when the attackers have to watch you, Yokai, and the defuser all at once.
  • You’ll know if you hit someone with the sonic blast if they put their hands up in front of their face. I don’t think this is always reliable though since I’ve seen people affected by it without their hands up. It also doesn’t fully blind them like a stun grenade does so be wary that they can still sort of see.
  • You don’t have to aim for the head with the sonic blast anymore; now any part of the body will still disorient the attackers (very useful for those pesky montagnes).
  • Keep Yokai on the move. After you sonic blast someone you should almost always move Yokai somewhere else to keep it safe and your enemies guessing.
  • Don’t always be on Yokai. This is pretty tricky to balance but it comes with practice. You need to know when it’s better to scout and disorient with Yokai and when you just need to shoot some people.
  • Hide well, you’re completely defenseless while you’re on Yokai. One of the biggest problems for you are 3 speed rushers. It can be difficult to tag them with a blast and if they get to you before you react you’ll be dead before you can get off of Yokai. To this end you’ll need to find good cover. Preferably somewhere with only one entry point that’s hard to get to.

Rainbow Six Siege Hibana Tips and Tricks By: Toch_Lighte


Hibana is an interesting mix between Ash and Thermite. She’s fast, has great guns, can breach reinforced walls from a range, and has a very versatile loadout. You can play her as an aggressive fragger or a cautious support, and she can be effective both up close and at a distance. Her gadget isn’t particularly hard to master, but if you use it in creative ways you can clear an objective room without even having to enter it.

  • Remember that Hibana is just as important as Thermite! Helping your teammates clear the objective is the most important thing you can do with your ability. Dying early is a detriment to your team.


  • Type-89 – A great assault rifle. It has good damage and a high fire-rate, but its small magazine means you’ll be reloading often. Its recoil is good, even while using an ACOG.
  • Supernova – The Supernova is my least favorite of the pump action shotguns. Weak and not very good for breaking walls, at least in my experience.
  • Bearing-9 – Similar to the SMG-11, it’s a small SMG sidearm that has a very high fire-rate. It can effectively act as a second primary, however its magazine will run dry very quickly.
  • P229 – It’s a very good pistol, on par with the P226 that the SAS have access to – but it really doesn’t stand up to the power and versatility of its alternative.

Note: The silencer for the P229 is bugged, and it reduces damage by a LOT more than it should – avoid using the silencer on this gun.

  • Both gadgets are good – the flashbangs are helpful if you intend to play Hibana aggressively, but the claymore is good for a slower, more passive playstyle.
  • Due to the high fire-rate of the Type-89 and Bearing-9, you may find yourself running out of ammo quickly. Try not to empty a magazine whenever you fire with the Type-89, and instead burst 4-5 rounds at a time.

My ideal loadout is the Type-89 (Vertical grip, flash hider and ACOG) and Bearing-9 (Compensator and Holographic) with a claymore as my gadget – I use it to cut off flank routes behind myself while I put pressure on the enemy.

When and where to use the X-Kairos:

  • Hatches are important to take control of and break open – if there’s a reinforced hatch that your team needs open, it’s your job to open it.
  • Sight lines into the objective room can be made, allowing attackers to pick off defenders without even entering. Consider placing it on areas that you can also monitor entrances into the sight, to prevent anyone from rotating back in.
  • You can make murder holes simply to force the enemy to retreat from a certain position – take this

    as example, and note how I purposely only used the top row of the pellets. When I detonate,

    I can shoot at the defender’s legs and they can’t even fire back unless prone.
  • You only need one pellet to detonate in order to break a hatch, and each pellet only does about 2 damage when it explodes. You can drop in from a reinforced hatch by shooting your X-K at it and break all but one pellet before detonating. Remember that they make noise while detonating, so a simultaneous distraction – perhaps another X-K charge somewhere else – could help maintain the element of surprise.
  • If you have defenders trapped in the objective room but don’t know where they are, shoot an X-K charge at a random wall on the site and look for bullet tracers that’ll show you where the defenders are hiding. Even if they don’t reveal their position to you by shooting the pellets, it’s another murder hole that they’ll have to be wary of.
  • If you’re sure the other side of a reinforced wall is safe, consider putting a charge as close to the floor as possible so that you can crawl through – a vaultable hole usually takes two charges, but a crawl hole takes one.
  • Never make a 3-charge high hole – it would mean you’ve used all of your charges to make the equivalent of a single Thermite hole. You can use 2 charges stacked on top of eachother in order to create a vaultable hole.
  • Hibana is a really good counter to Mira. Instead of shooting the X-K so that the pellets are right on the mirror, shoot it so the pellets are just beneath it – this will create a vaultable hole in one shot.
  • An ADS counts each pellet as a grenade – since there are 6 pellets per X-K charge, you could theoretically deplete the charges of all 3 of Jager’s ADSes, if they were close enough together.

Miscellaneous tips:

  • The Bearing-9 can be used to very quickly break open barricades due to its high rate of fire.
  • Once your X-K pellets have been activated, they cannot be destroyed by Bandit’s batteries – the only way to stop them at that point is to shoot them, melee them, or use an explosive.

Rainbow Six Siege Valkyrie Guide By: cW_Thiger


Valk is an operator that uses her so called black eye cameras to gather intel for her team. She can be played as a team player or you can use her as a flanker on your own.


  • MPX: The MPX is an SMG with a very high firerate and low damage per shot output. But it’s very easy to land a clear headshot with its accuracy.
  • SPAS 12: The SPAS 12 is a semi automatic shotgun that can take down enemies very fast when you engage them in a close quarter combat.
  • D50: The D50 aka Deagle is a secondary with an enormous amount of Damage and recoil. It is also Part of the destruction 5 Model, putting it on a Par with glazes OTS-3 and Tachankas Turret. This means you can create Large Murderholes.
  • Deployable Shield: The deployable shield can be used to get some cover when you are in cams.
  • C4: The C4 can be used in various ways (More detail below)

My Load out:

  • MPX: Holographic Sight, Vertical Grip, and Muzzle Brake (Here is to be noted that the I use the shotgun occasionally when I know I have to defend cqc on or close to the obj)
  • D50: –
  • C4: –


  • Information Gathering
  • Aggressive flanking
  • C4 Trap
  • Denying Bomb plants from Below/Above

Information Gathering: This Part is easy to learn but hard to master. So what you basically do is, you place your cams somewhere, where your enemy doesn’t see it or is not able to shoot it (there is a spot on hereford) and you will be able to gather information from it. This is my prefered playstyle. From the intel those cams give me I try to get off flanks and kills. This is the easy part about it, but what is really hard to master is, where you’re going to place them. For me, on my team (which we’re currently recruiting for btw) we go through the maps and see where you want to hv the cams, so the whole team knows where they are. I will give you one example in defending the kitchen/trophy on chalet. Here I place my cams as following: one in the big garage underneath the obj, one in the fireplace Lobby and one outside on one of the trees. Now my “normal position” is to stay below the kitchen window at the door in the outside cam. A tesmmate will help me with the cams in big garage so I can’t get caught off guard. Now I can A: telll my teammates if smbdy is approaching the trophy window or if smbdy is watching through the drone hole.

C4 Trap: Have a preset C4 at a location where you put a cam on (like im the same room watching it) for example next to the kitchen hatch in Clubhouse. Have a C4 underneath and wait for Thermite.

Denying Bomb plants from Below/Above: What you want to do is, have a cam in the obj and watch it until someone tries to plant, now either C4 him or shoot him through the floor on the mark a teammate set you.

Utilizing C4: First up, this can be used on any OP with a C4.

  • 1st Way: Make a hole between bomb sites. I think this is self eyplanatory.
  • 2nd Way: use it as a trap(as stated above)
  • 3rd Way: Use it to create a new flanking route when you get stuck in a room. When someone is having an angle on you and that was your only way out, use your C4 to create a new pathway.
  • 4th Way: Kill ppls with it, it is lethal.
  • 5th Way: use it as distraction. Throw your C4 on a wall and let it explode. Now you can go through the doorway while they’re watching your hole.
  • 6th Way: You can place it on a Doorframe to scare shields and other operators from entering through that Room.

Rainbow Six Siege Frost Guide By: Tragicalknave


okay, so i am a player that mains as Echo and Frost, so i will be giving a insight into my opinion of both

first thing to note is Frost’s ability; Welcome Mat

the Welcome Mat is a pun for a start; it is roughly the same size as an actual welcome mat only visitors stepping onto this mat ain’t going to be feeling all warm and cosy afterwards, this is a modified bear trap that will down any attacker that steps foot onto it automatically, no matter how much health they had prior to standing on it but more on that in a minute


  • when combined with Caveira this can make for a instant interrogation combo
  • frost is given a special feed message that tells her that a opponent has stepped on 1 of her welcoming mats
    • this is useful for killing multiple enemy operators at once by using the original as bait
  • can make extraction of hostage impossible
    • this is done by completely surrounding the hostage with frost traps making the extraction harder


  • Just like if Caveira is spotted in setup, if frost is spotted this can make the effectiveness of frost worse as frost works best on unsuspecting targets
  • The welcome mats stand out really well against most surfaces
  • the welcome mat does not kill meaning that if no one on your side can get to the person then the mat can be rendered useless by the friendlies of said person

Primary Weapons

Frost has two primaries;

  • Super 90; this devastating Shotgun packs one hell of a punch, easily killing people who do not have full health in one shot, as with (at least that i know of) it cannot have a grip but can have a charm, a laser sight and a regular sight equipped to it, sights wise it has the following;
    • Red dot Sight
    • Reflex Sight
    • Holographic Sight
  • 9mm C1; this a fully automatic sub-machine gun that packs a punch with a damage of 42 stock, it has a clip size of 34 with a additional 1 already loaded in the barrel, this gun can have a charm, a barrel alteration, a laser sight, a grip and also a sight, all of its attachments are the following;
    • Red dot Sight
    • Reflex Sight
    • Suppressor
    • Extended Barrel
    • Angled Grip

Secondary Weapon

Frost only has 1 secondary weapon, the MK1 9mm, which can have a muzzle break, a suppressor and a laser sight


Frost can have 1 of 2 different tactical gear equipped; 2x Barbed wire, which can be used to hide Frost’s welcome mats or a Deployable Shield

Personal Loadout

personally i prefer to use the Super 90 with a red dot sight equipped, however whenever i do use the 9mm C1 i load it out with a Red dot Sight, the angled grip, and a suppressor, i also run a muzzle break on the MK1 9mm, for gear i run barbed wire as it is much more beneficial that just a deployable shield alone


  • the Welcome Mat is best placed under windows where the attacker can not see them; this is due to directly under the window being not visible from the attackers angle
  • work together with other operators; placing welcoming mats near where Caveira plans to cover could be very helpful for a early on interrogation
  • any Barbed Wire that is electrified cannot have the welcome mat in it; this also works the other way around
  • Deployable shields in doorways can be turned into traps that down enemies upon entering a room; this is really good for room denial
  • Frost is an all-rounder character of two defense and two speed, this means she cannot simply run away or be a bullet sponge

Hopefully this is helpful to you all and you all can expect a few more of these sometime in the future

Rainbow Six Siege Buck Guide By: plasmax22


Buck is an amazing operator perfect for playing vertically. He has two great primary weapons, as well as frags and a versatile gadget.

Buck is essentially three things. He can play any of these roles fairly well. These are soft breacher, vertical, and flex. He is my favourite soft breacher, as he can open hatches, walls, and windows from a good distance away, and either hold an angle, or keep pushing through and making a path to the objective. He has frags also, which can be used to destroy shields and barbed wire (priority on barbed wire). Vertical is when Buck is either above or below the objective and shooting any enemy that he sees. Buck is the best for this role, as he can work from below as well, something only ash used to be able to do. Open up a hole above or below popular camping places, such as the little little office in armory on Border. He is also a very flexible operator, as he can go from holding a long angle with his CAMRS that he created with his skeleton key, to scaring enemies from above, to rushing the last person with his skeleton key. Buck just has so much potential, and can essentially do whatever you need him to do (except breach reinforcements, of course). If your team has a Thermite and Thatcher already, Buck is generally my go to pick. Buck can also be used to destroy batteries and jammers. If there is a drone hole next to the wall, you can roll a frag through it and get equipment on the other side.


C8-SFW This gun is hard to control compared to many other weapons in siege. This is because it does not have the ability to be equipped with a vertical grip, as his skeleton key uses the spot a grip would be placed.

Option 1: CQC Compensator with Holo. You can switch to ACOG if you become more comfortable with it, but ACOG is very hard to use on this gun (Have found ACOG easier on PC)

Option 2: Mid Range Muzzle break with Holo. ACOG if comfortable. Muzzle break helps to reset the aimpoint back to the original point.

CAMRS A single shot variant of the FAN FAL, this DMR is one of my favourite guns in the game. It does solid damage per shot, and has a good recoil pattern. It does not suffer from having no vertical grip.

Option 1: Sneaky Run the CAMRS with a Holo sight and suppressor. The CAMRS does very solid damage even suppressed.

Option 2: Flexible Muzzle break and ACOG. The CAMRS is a Designated Marksman Rifle, which means it’s technically designed for longer ranges. Buck’s CAMRS does very well in this role. If you are comfortable with ACOG in mid-fairly close this is the right setup for you. The skeleton key can be used for point blank range.


MK1 9mm Buck only has one sidearm, a Browning Hi-Power, which is called the MK1 9mm in game. It is a good all around pistol, and is a good fall back weapon if the enemy is too far away for you to switch to your skeleton key.

Option 1: Sneaky Suppress the pistol and use it mostly to take out cameras or kill unsuspecting enemies.

Option 2: fall back Muzzle break. This keeps the recoil low and very easy to manage.


Skeleton Key The skeleton key is probably one of the most versatile gadgets in the game. It is essentially sledge hammer on steroids. To create a vaultable hole, simply aim at chest height (without ADS), and fire once, from a distance of a few metres. This makes a hole about the size of an impact grenade. The skeleton key is also useful for opening floors and ceilings. You can open a hole above or below common spots for people to hide and either shoot them or drop frags down. Remember, the metal frames almost always run north-south.

Personal Tips:

-My personal loadout CAMRS with ACOG and muzzle break MK1 9mm with muzzle break and laser (laser helps when you draw it in a panic). Frags This allows me to play almost any range, and do whatever my team needs me to do.

-When playing Buck, try to always get above or below the objective.

-The CAMRS is a very strong, accurate rifle. Buck is very good at protecting Thermite from afar, if you don’t have a Glaz or Blackbeard.

-Buck’s frags can sometimes be used as an alternative to Thatcher or Twitch. Throw one through a drone hole next to the reinforced wall, and it will take out any jammers or batteries.

-Use what you prefer! I personally like the CAMRS more, but I suggest you use different attachments to figure out what you like to use! If you just want to try Buck, I suggest my class though.

Rainbow Six Siege Caveira Guide By: Toch_Lighte


Caveira is a difficult operator, both to play as and against. She can suddenly appear and decimate an entire team – or she can be droned out and mowed down as she tries to change positions. She could pop up here and there, constantly keeping the attackers on edge and forcing them to hunt her down, or she could lie in wait for the perfect opportunity to flank them. The way I play Caveira mostly relies on hiding and ambushing, so that’s what I’ll primarily be covering in this guide, however many of these tips can be applied to any way she can be played. Note that this is more of a tips & tricks album than a real guide, but I try to cover everything I can think of.

  • Map knowledge is essential. If you don’t have knowledge of the map, know where all the stairs and hatches are, and know how to flank, then you’re at an extreme disadvantage. I would personally suggest not buying Caveira until you’re very familiar with all of the maps currently in the game.


  • The Luison – Cav’s pistol is more of a primary than her actual primaries. It has very high damage up close, but it drops off a fair bit at range. It’s impossible to kill someone while using the pistol unless they’re downed, or have been downed once before.
  • The M12 SMG – it’s just about on-par with the FBI’s UMP – fires more slowly than most others but hits harder too. If you’re going for kills and not aiming for interrogations, use this gun, since it doesn’t down enemies nearly as often as her other two weapons – and it can get long-range 1 taps, if you aim carefully.
  • The Spas-15 Shotgun – this is what you want to be using if you’re going for interrogations – it has a tendency to down enemies rather than kill them, just like her Luison, and its high fire-rate can let it sweep a room pretty easily.
  • Other than your preferred sight, no attachments are really needed other than a muzzle attachment for the M12, if you choose to use it. On the Luison, a laser sight could be quite useful, but it could also be very detrimental if it reveals your presence.
  • Due to Caveira being very geared towards roaming, Impact nades are her best option. Barbed wire is always beneficial to the team, but Impacts can get you out of a tough situation and can also be used for making hiding spots.

My preferred loadout for Caveira is the Spas-15 with a reflex sight (no laser) and no laser on her pistol. Use the shotgun up close, and the pistol for anything outside of its range.

Preparation phase:

  • Try not to be seen by the drones. Them not knowing you’re playing Cav is a very good thing, since they won’t be prepared for you. Don’t worry about it if you are seen though, since even if you try to hide from them, 90% of the time they’ll see or ID you anyway.
  • You’ve got plenty of time in the prep phase to grab your armor and put up your reinforcements.
  • Break open any hatches you might use during the action phase. When a hatch breaks open, it makes a lot of noise, ruining any chance of a surprise attack.
  • Go away from the objective – Caveira is most effective while roaming. Get in a position where you can sandwich the attackers as they’re launching their assault on the objective. Near common entrances is a good spot.
  • Make sure that no drones saw where you were heading – if a drone sees you, pretend you’re heading a different direction as you kill the drone.
  • Don’t get into your hiding spot unless you’re sure that no drones saw where you were – if your hiding spot was seen, that’s the first place they’re going to check. You might be able to use this to your advantage by making them think you’re hiding somewhere you’re not.
  • When you’ve settled into your spot, get on the cams and wait for the attackers. If they don’t enter near you, you can either wait and hope they re-enter near you or you can get into a different position to wait for them somewhere else. Think about how likely it is they’ll end up coming your way.

My setup phase is usually armor > reinforcements > breaking hatches > finding a hiding spot.

How to hide:

  • Caveira is basically the smallest operator in the game – she has very little extra gear on her model. She can hide in corners and under desks better than anyone else.
  • When you go prone and wedge yourself in a corner (or under a desk), be extremely mindful of where your legs are. The smallest footprint you can get in a corner is facing slightly outwards but mostly perpendicular to the wall, with your legs tucked behind you.
  • Most desks have a chair that can only be broken by explosives. Use your impact nade on the top of the chair to break it, and you can hide under the desk. You can find these desks on quite a few maps.
  • Use unconventional hiding spots, like somewhere they wouldn’t even think to check. You don’t always need to be near the enemy when they enter, just in a position to flank them when the time comes.
  • Let them bait themselves into a trap. Take this gif for example. I was in the room that I knew the attackers would try to go through, because it’s the only hatch that leads into the objective. However, they were so focused on opening the hatch that all I needed to do was hide off to the side (not getting between them and their goal) until they were occupied.
  • Don’t hide in the same spot repeatedly! Unless you’re absolutely sure they didn’t see your hiding spot (remember the killcams), switch it up every round.

Cheeky spots that involve going prone and pressing myself into a corner or under/behind something are my favorite kinds of spots, and oftentimes they work the best.

Action Phase:

  • Silent Step – Cav’s ability. Use it as often as you can, any time you’re moving anywhere near enemies. If it runs out, you can either crouch-walk or hunker down until it recharges again, but staying quiet and off the attackers’ radar is necessary if you’re going to get the drop on them.
  • Be patient. If a couple of your teammates die early, it’s not your problem – don’t compromise the element of surprise by showing up as soon as you’re expected.
  • If they have a Jackal – then the round is going to be a lot more difficult for you and any other roamers. When you’re in Silent Step, his footprint tracker cannot ping you – when you’ve been detected, enter Silent Step for a moment when you’re about to be pinged again, and do this each time until the tracking expires. If you do it properly, only the first ping should ever go off.
  • Also important is that while in Silent Step, you do not leave footprints for Jackal – use this to your advantage, not only to conceal your presence from him, but also to bait him into a trap. Leave a small patch of footprints and hide nearby to wait for him – most Jackals can’t resist scanning fresh footprints.
  • Be vigilant. If you’re in a good hiding spot, feel free to check the cameras to see how things are going. If the attackers are near the objective, be ready to pounce – just as they’re entering is often the best time to come in behind them, because all of their focus will be on the objective at that point.
  • Have confidence in your hiding spot. If you’ve wedged yourself behind something that nobody would think to check behind, don’t move or make any sort of noise. Wait for them to get busy deploying a gadget or focus on one of your teammates, and then make your move.
  • Interrogating doesn’t make you invincible – take care of any other enemies nearby first, interrogate after everyone is down.
  • If they know where you are, run. Just get out of there, and wait until they’re occupied again. It’s the same principle as not re-peeking the same spot half a dozen times – once they know where you are, they can pre-aim and focus their attention on you.
  • If you’ve downed an enemy out of reach or around a corner, you can use an impact grenade to finish them off.
  • When the enemy is inside the building and trying to enter the objective (meaning you can flank them), that’s the time to shine. Most of my good plays as Caveira happen when the enemy is really putting the pressure on the objective, because they’re too busy to cover their backs.

Countering Caveira:

  • Drone! Please, just use your drone – 90% of the time Caveira is lurking far from her team, so if you can figure out where she is and cut off her escape, she’s as good as dead.
  • If you know they have a Caveira, DON’T go lone wolf. She’ll catch you by surprise and get an easy interrogation. Go with a minimum of one other teammate, but remain slightly spread out – she’ll think she got you by yourself and go for the interrogation, when your teammate is actually just around the corner.
  • Check all the cheeky spots and corners – bathtubs, showers under desks, etc. You really never know where she might be.

Rainbow Six Siege Mute Guide By: OneShotSammyV2


So I’ve made a mute guide since I didn’t see one here and since he is one of my most played operators I figured why not, just bear in mind some of this is just my opinion but he was the first operator I got and is among my top 3 most played operators.


He has a fairly simple set of weapons, not the best guns, but by no means the worst.

  • The MP5K is my recommended choice, it has a high rate of fire at 800 rpm but its damage is not great. I find its best used with a compensator and your preference of sight, this setup makes it have almost no horizontal recoil which makes predicting were your shots go very easy. One down side it has is that there is no ACOG which is one of the best things for range, without it you’re limited on how easy it is to hit ranged targets. Overall this is a great gun for CQC, but its low damage and no ACOG make it not as good for distance fights.
  • The M590A1 Shotgun is a pump action, like most shotguns it’s good for CQC but not great for range. The main problem with this shotgun and most pump shotguns is, they’re not consistent on their one shot kill range. This is mainly due to the randomized pattern of the pellets, over all the MP5K is the more reliable choice. However, the Shotgun is better if you are looking to make kill holes to shoot at people, but it limits you to just your pistol for range.
  • The P226 Mk 25 is your only choice for secondary, it’s a good all-around pistol, in most gun fights it will get the job done. I would recommend putting a muzzle break on to reduce the recoil, and making it that much easier to use.
  • Nitro Cell is the go to equipment for mute most of the time, it’s more powerful than grenades but can only be thrown short distances. You can use it to kill shield operators, open flank routes and throw out windows and around corners to kill enemy’s. you can’t go wrong with this.
  • Deployable Shield is good in concept but most of the time doesn’t work so well. Most of the time nitro cell is far more useful, but there are a few times it can help with mute. There are some cases when you may want to put a mute jammer in a hallway or larger doorway but the space is to large, putting it behind a deployable shield allows you to stop drones that would otherwise get around it. Now this is limited use but I felt it was best you be aware before you wrote this item of completely.


The jammers are a fairly simple item, they stop any electronic item the enemy uses from working within its. Specifically, they stop drones, breaching charges, Thermite charges, Hibana charges, Fuzes device, Jackals visor, and so on (I probably forgot something but whatever). Primarily your goal is to stop Thermite and Hibana charges, while to a lesser degree stop drones. It has a glowing ring while being deployed showing the area it will jam, it is big enough to cover 1.5 to 3 reinforced walls depending on their size.

Mute vs Bandit

It’s important to know when to pick mute or bandit, they do very similar things but there are a few main differences. First off, bandit can destroy thermite/Hibana breaching stuff on reinforced walls, this and the bandit trick make him a very good pick, on top of that he has 3 barbed wire, mute doesn’t get any barbed wire. But he can only cover 1 reinforced wall per battery, so if you have a larger area to cover he can be more limited. Whereas mute can cover a larger area and can stop a bigger variety of gadgets. So it all depends on what you want, if there’s only 1 long wall or 2 short walls you are really worried about bandit is probably a better choice, but if you have a larger area or have fuse or twitch constantly being a problem on the enemy team, then pick mute.

Prep Phase

So let’s talk about what you should do as mute, in the prep phase mute is a busy guy, the following is my step by step of what I do in the prep phase and the first 15 second of the round, after that I’ll explain why I did what I did.

1. Round starts: first thing I do is put 2 mute jammers it the most likely places drones will come in, top of stairs, doorways, places like that, if it’s a door put it next to the door and don’t put it openly in the hallway to make it harder for twitch drones to shoot. You’re trying to stop drones, but you can only place 2 because you just won’t have time to do the rest of the stuff if you place more.

2. Next I will put my reinforcements up, followed by picking up rook armor if available.

3. Now I will place my other jammers either on reinforced walls were I think thermite or Hibana may breach, or near castle barricades/Mira windows if needed. Try to put them on reinforced walls that will stop thermite/Hibana from being used and waiting until now will give bandit time to place his stuff first, I always give bandit first pick since his batteries can destroy thermite’s/Hibana’s stuff. As far as castle or Mira, placing a jammer under Mira windows will help to keep the enemy from destroying it as easy. As for castle, putting jammers by windowed castle barricades helps with keeping breaching charges, ash rounds and fuse from doing their thing on the windows, doors are less helpful since most of the time the enemy can get at an angle where they can shoot the jammer but it can still slow the enemy down.

4. At this point the round started or is about to start so go pick up the jammers you first placed making sure to shoot any drones they stopped and put them in places like in 3. the reason I pick them up is because by jamming their drones they sort of know where you are now, stopping the drones is more to stop them from getting more information, but at the start of the round they’re no longer really useful for that so using it for something else is the smartest move.

Start of round

What you do at this point depends on how many players stay on objective and how many leave. I will either roam near the objective, like 1 or 2 rooms away at most if there are plenty on obj, or I’ll stay on obj if there’s only 1 other person on obj. I don’t roam far from the obj, there are other operators that are more fit for that, and by the time you set up everything else the attacking team is more than likely already in the building, so running around at this point is risky (Most of this depends on where you are defending, there are some places like kid’s bedroom on house where even one on obj is risky so play it by ear).


The main thing to remember is, mute is not an aggressive operator, you may be able to do a good flank from time to time, but he’s primarily there to hinder the enemy by restricting were they can and can’t use their equipment. Stopping thermite and Hibana from breaching, stopping drones from gathering information and just being a nuisance to the enemy team is his main purpose.

Rainbow Six Siege Tachanka Guide By: upgraded


Now, I may not be the greatest player in the world, but I play a lot of Tachanka. This’ll be broken into two parts one being solo play, and another playing with a second person or team. Now that’s out of the way lets jump right in.

Solo Play

Tachanka gets a bad rap, but he’s not as bad as some would like to have you believe (note he’s still bad, just not awful) the best way to play Tachanka is to be a semi-roamer, stay within 30m of the objective and try and have easy access to it as well. The biggest issue I’ve seen with him is that people try to set him up in spots where the enemy will have a range advantage (really long corridors, aimed at windows, etc… etc..) instead try placing your turret in areas where you will end up behind the enemy, his turret can do amazing amounts of damage in a very short period of time, the turret itself is incredibly inaccurate so try to use trigger discipline and wait for the enemies to come out into the open before firing.

Tachanka is immobile when he’s on the turret making drones his worst nightmare, try to wait until the very last minute to put his turret anywhere as that’ll cut down on your death count by a lot. Tachanka’s turret whether you’d like to admit or not is great at shutting an area down as he says “killing field deployed” and that’s exactly what it is. When placing Mr. T’s turret try to not be super cautious about your surroundings, while it’s important to know what walls are breakable it doesn’t always mean they will be sometimes it’s best to have your back to a breakable wall if it means getting a few kills through the wall you’re looking at.

Probably the most important of the group when playing Tachanka always always be moving, I know what you’re thinking “but upgraded434 how can you move when his turret makes you immobile and takes 50 years to pick up?” Sometimes it’s good to ditch the turret, sometimes, but if you can save it and move to a different spot you can throw people off guard and get a few more picks. And know when to ditch, if the enemies have created a long range fight, ditch and try and get them with your gun.

And last but certainly not least what should I use? I find the SASG-12 to be absolute crap it’s worse than frosts, it’s worse than pulse/castle’s, it’s worse than bucks, BUCKS, it’s only good for making holes in the wall. Save yourself the trouble and use the 9x19VSN it’ll save your life someday. As much as I hate the deployable shield with Tachanka it is very good, but I wouldn’t recommend it in solo play, sure you can place it in front of your turret and just take a ton of shots to the body, but if you setup behind a wall you can place the razor wire and sound whore the wall for enemies. I only recommend the shield if you have to defend a longer corridor.

Multiplayer the part of the guide where squads and duos learn together.

1. How to play in a squad

When playing in a squad or with a second person you can communicate and become even stronger, I think this is where Tachanka really shines because you can absolutely destroy with a full squad or even with one extra player. Tachanka doesn’t change much when you have more players but he does get stronger, much stronger. Tachanka can synergize with almost anyone and be effective in any situation with any operator in any place. I’m always thankful to have a Castle, Jagar, mute, and rook on my team which is great because they are some of the most played anyway.

2. What to do with your squad

If you can get Jagar and Castle you can have a way to save you from Grenades, and bullets, grenades are Tachanka’s second worst enemy (right behind drones) even one Jagar ADS can save you from two frags which would normally destroy your life work, just make sure he places them in a spot where they won’t go off in your face. Castle can make a lot of the places where your turret goes safer, and he can take a shield and place it in-front of you so you can take barbed wire (uses of which I will talk about later). I know what you’re thinking “But upgraded434 why should I force my team to pick around me when I can just play someone else?” Because it’s a team game, and Tachanka is a team player, he can do well on his own sure, but with team mates he can do more, he’s like Rook and Doc, Castle and Mute, Bandit and Jagar. He doesn’t just go well with one, or even two people, he goes well with everyone.

3. Turret spots

I have quite a bit of images to show so I recommend reading this on a PC or laptop because it’ll make loading them much less of a hassle. I’m just gonna show images of house, because i feel it gets the point across on how you should play. in this image

you can see that I have my turret set on the stairs pointed at the kitchen, this is placed in such a way that enemies can’t see you unless they round the corner look at you, most people tend to look at the lower stairs instead of the upper especially when the objective is in the basement/garage. We’re gonna start with the objective in the master bedroom but it’s also good for the kids bedroom.

If you place the turret in the walk-in closet

you can have a perfect shot into the kids bedroom, I see quite a few people come from there so if you leave the wall in pristine condition, with a pulse you can absolutely kill anyone in there with a few shots. Once that spot becomes compromised you can shift into the bedroom

(you can shoot through the couch with Tachanka’s turret at least in my experience) when they vault into the room you can open up on them through the couch and get them. Staying in the objective room not your taste? setup in the workshop

when they come up the stairs you can take them through the walls, be careful though they can shoot you from behind if you’re there too long. You can also setup in the bathroom

and the kids bedroom.

The living room, this one was the hardest but I learned some new things as well. first off the stairway

if the upper floor becomes compromised move here,

be sure to place your barbed wire as well

the way these are placed forces the enemy into a bottleneck and if they follow on the non-barbed path you can kill them before they even notice you. I found this gem

place your wire here

and here

be warned you can be shot in the back from here

if you’re not careful, although no-one really goes that way.

The basement, this is a hard one, like really hard, Mr. T’s turret is so hard to place in this area, because the enemies come from the garage most of the time so it makes it hard to place anywhere without getting shot in the face or the back. starting off with this one

this is mainly a joke spot, so I wouldn’t recommend trying it without a full squad of 5. This one

is actually pretty good, if you have someone look for enemies feet under the door you can shoot through the wall and get some nice kills, then move it to the other side

of the laundry room, it’s good if they get in the garage, I’ll let you decide where to place the wire, but I’ve done some creative things with it.

Rainbow Six Siege Kapkan Guide By: MrPope


Preface: Kapkan is a 1-speed 3-armor defender from the Spetsnaz CTU. His special gadget is the EDD, or Entry Denial Device. In short, it is an explosive booby trap placed on doorways or windows. The device has a red laser that, when broken by attackers, causes an explosion that normally kills anyone caught in the blast radius. (I will address the “normally” part in another section)

Load out: Kapkan has two primary weapon choices, an SMG and a shotgun, like many other defenders. (including his fellow Spetsnaz defender, our lord and savior Tachanka) Kapkan’ SMG is the 9x19SVN and the shotgun is the SASG-12.

The 9×19 has a base damage of 34 and the following attachment options. Optic choices are the red dot, holographic, and reflex (it is important to note that these sights are different from non soviet operators). You can have either the angled or the vertical grip. Barrel attachments are the suppresser, flash hider, compensator, and muzzle break. There is also the option to add the laser sight for an under barrel attachment. I find that the reflex sight, flash hider, and vertical grip work really well together. This setup makes what little recoil the weapon has very manageable and beginner-friendly.

The SASG-12 is a semi-automatic shotgun with a base damage of 47 and the following attachment options. For optics it has the reflex sight, red dot sight, and holographic sight. It has the option for a vertical grip or an angled grip. It can also have a suppressor (it is the only shotgun currently in the game with a suppressor available) and , of course, the option for the laser sight under barrel attachment. I personally don’t use the shotgun very often unless I am messing around or trying a cheese tactic. But, when I am running the shotgun, I go for the reflex sight, vertical grip, and laser sight. I don’t find much use in the suppressor but playplay around with it and see what works for you.

For secondary weapons, Kapkan can have either the PMM or the GSH-18. Both pistols have the options of either a muzzle break or a suppressor for barrel attachments and the option of a laser sight. Both weapons have low recoil that is very manageable. However, the PMM has much clearer sights, in my opinion, and 63 damage to the GSH-18’s 33 damage and unconventional sight picture. It’s my belief that the PMM is the clear choice for secondary weapons.

For equipment, Kapkan has either barbwire or a nitro cell. Both are useful and you can’t really go wrong with either choice. However, I find that trying to deploy 2 reinforcements for either walls or hatches, 2 barbwires, and 5 EDD traps is too much to get done in the preorder phase so I tend to run the nitro cell unless my teammates haven’t chosen much barbwire.

Gadget usage and deployment:

Kapkan’s EDD is a booby trap deployed on doors and windows. It can be placed just about anywhere along the height of the door or window frame. However, I have found that in most cases lower is better. Attackers are usually looking head height for threats, not down at the floor. Since the traps don’t disappear after you die, I consider them a passive gadget. This contributes to Kapkan being a beginner-friendly operator. The traps are able to be destroyed by a single bullet, explosive set off too close to to the trap, or a Twitch drone taser shot. For this reason, stealth is key to good trap placement (more on that below).

Not all doors and windows are created equal when it comes to trap placement. The traps emit a red beam of light that has varying degrees a visibility depending on the conditions. As a general rule, traps placed in commonly high traffic areas that are not immediately adjacent to the objective are the most effective. I find that doorways and more specifically double-wide doorways are better than windows. This is because if an attacker approaches a trapped door or window at an angle, the trap becomes more visible. Double wide doorways usually don’t have this problem since they are so wide. Brighter doorways are better. The red beam tends to blend in to bright backgrounds as well as white backgrounds. A great example of this is the doorway between main stairs and Lobby on Consulate during the day.

I would also advise against barricading doors that you place traps on. There are several reasons for this. First, if a door isn’t barricaded by default and you barricade it up, attackers generally become suspicious of that doorway. Attackers might avoid that doorway in an attempt to find an alternate route that doesn’t require them to destroy a barricade and thus make noise. Attackers might drone out the doorway looking for defenders holding angles on it and then notice your trap and destroy it. Attackers might destroy the door with a breach charge or explosive and those tend to destroy your traps (this goes back to that stealth). This is also why putting a Kapkan trap on a door that has been Castle-barricaded is a bad idea. Those doors are almost always destroyed with explosives, which destroy your trap. A lot of attackers, especially 3 speed rushers, will move through a double wide open doorway at the beginning of a round hoping to catch defenders off guard.

If you do choose to place a trap on a window I would suggest leaving the window barricaded (because exterior windows are barricaded by default) and placing the trap at about eye level. The reason for this being if they melee the window it will usually be at eye level first so they can peak the room and if they happen to cross the laser with their melee motion, it will detonate the trap.

If you are playing against a team that is communicating well, your traps will probably get called out during the prep phase and avoided or destroyed. A tactic to prevent this is to wait to deploy your traps until the start of the action phase. But, this runs the risk of you getting killed by a rushing attacker, since you are placing your traps where you expect the enemy to come from. You can also play some mind games and deploy a trap or two in the prep phase to intentionally get droned out, then move the traps during the action phase to catch attackers off-guard. It is also worth noting that shield operators, and Monty in particular, can detonate the trap with their shield and not die. They will take some damage but usually not enough to kill or even down them.

Don’t place your traps near other gadgets. Avoid castled doors and windows for the reasons I talked about above. I also avoid Frost traps because if your trap goes off, it will destroy hers. Not to mention you can deploy your trap elsewhere and have more coverage for picks, or at least sound cues for an attacker push.

General play style:

Since Kapkan is a 2-speed 2-armor operator this. Keep this in mind during your rounds. I wouldn’t play him sitting inside the objective unless you are playing hostage, since you can be that guy and use the hostage for cover. But it is also a bad idea to play him on the other side of the map, because you won’t get back to the objective in time to stop something if the attackers gain control of the objective. Instead, I play Kapkan like I play most defenders: , setting up one or two rooms away from objective, holding an angle, and trying to be very still while listening for sound cues, or on cams calling out for my teammates. Keep in mind you are are a 1-speed on defense and your goal is the objective. Don’t go rush for kills. Let me say that again: DONT GO RUSH FOR KILLS! You want to win the round. That means holding the objective. If the attackers want to stay outside the building the entire round and screw around? Let them. Resist the temptation to do a mid-round run out. But if you must do this, at least take a friend. Be patient and think outside the box, and pretty soon you too can make the enemy 3 speed attacker rage quit after hitting a trap for the 3rd round in a row.

Rainbow Six Siege Glaz Guide By: Murmenaattori


This is my Glaz guide, whether you want to start playing him, get better at playing him or play be better against him, this guide might have something you don’t know about him or have not thought about.


Glaz’s ability is a flipup thermal vision scope. The flip up ability allows you to switch between a low zoom sight and a high zoom thermal vision scope that highlights enemy operators in yellow. The thermal vision allows you to see through smoke.

Primary weapon

A semi automatic marksman rifle with 10 rounds in a magazine and potentially 1 in the chamber. It can destroy barricades and hatches in 3 shots. It is able to punch holes through windows on the plane map, but remember that enemy operators can fire through these holes as well. Making a significant hole to a soft wall requires around 5 grouped shots.


The suppressor silences the weapon’s firing sound and removes the tracer effect from it’s bullets in return for damage. No tracer effect makes you much harder to detect at range and the weapon will not make the iconic Glaz firing sound from accross the map.

The muzzle brake tames the recoil and is better suited to when you want to do maximum damage to the enemy.

For the sights you have 3 choices, and you can see the reticle through the flip scope so you are choosing it for both modes at once. These are a preference thing and all of them are viable.

Secondary weapon is up to preference.

Secondary Gadget

Claymore – useful as an alert system on a flank route the enemy might take, or just as an instant killer if an enemy tries to jump through a barricade somewhere. These complement his usually campy playstyle.

Smoke grenades – for aggressive pushes. Best used with suppressor to mask your location when firing through the smoke.

Operators Glaz is strong against:

Castle – Glaz’s rifle can shoot through Castle barricades and destroys them in 13 shots. (Thank Fubbywubby for correcting this value)

Smoke – Glaz’s infra red scope can easily see through Smoke’s toxic gas.

Operators who are strong against Glaz:

Rook – Rook’s body armor can give all defenders better survivability against Glaz in general. Glaz can’t always hit headshots so when only a part of a defender’s body is exposed, Rook armor can help their survival and they will always be put in to DBNO when first going below 1 health from bodyshots. Rook has access to an acog for his SMG’s which helps against Glaz at long range.

Doc – Like Rook, but his ability is usually used after Glaz has dealt damage instead of reducing it in the first place. A confident Doc can overheal himself and peek Glaz, or if communicating can overheal a teammate at a better position who can peek. Doc also has access to an acog.

Combining Rook and Doc is very effective against a Glaz, as bodyshots will always down your teammates and allows them to be healed.

Jäger – His ADS can disable smoke grenades before they emit their smoke.


Capitao can use his smoke bolts to ignore Jäger’s ADS and apply smoke quickly and accurately from long range.

Montagne can force enemies to move and can block routes to make enemies go through hallways that Glaz watches.

Ash can open lines of sight from far away for Glaz to watch.

A bit of gameplay strategy:

The best thing to do is to open up a long line of sight through an area where the enemy could move through, if you can get a line of sight going through the objective room you can lock up the enemy so your team can finish them easier. This does not mean that he is not powerful at close range tho, his gun’s damage is very high at close range.

Rainbow Six Siege IQ Guide By: Dead_tread


IQ main here. No I’m not a Ash main with slow reflexes. IQ is actually a very powerful operator right now, and she’s about to become a hell of a lot better. So let’s start with where she fits in with team comp and counters.

IQ fills a hole between an entry fragger and support. If she gets above or below an obj she can destroy batteries and jammers. Or can even use her frags inside droneholes to get garage doors on some maps(if thatcher is already dead that is). If there is not a plethora of gadgets to destroy, use her unique weapon setup for cqc and pushes. IQ hard counters: Valk Kapkan Echo Pulse Lesion(soon) Ela(soon) And soft counters Bandit Jager Mute And nitro cells/basic cameras

Loadout: IQ has three primary’s with unique roles. Her Aug has a higher fire rate, lower damage, and the unique trait of less damage reduction from the suppressor. Generally the long range option.

The commando has high stopping power and predictable recoil. Not low recoil, just predictable. An idiot proof gun that drops people fast. Both this and the Aug have an attachment you could want.

And the machine gun. It’s got a high fire rate and a lot of bullets. Not much else. Kinda fun for cqc, but not a super viable choice most of the time.

IQ also has a decent pistol you will use often, and frags/breaching charges.

Her gadget is a wrist mounted scanner that can detect enemy electronics including: Pulses scanner Enemies on cameras Cameras Black eyes Bandit battery’s Bombs on defuse The obj on control area Mute jammers Point defense systems Echos drone Echo while on his drone Elas traps Kapkans traps Lesions traps And C4

Preferred loadout: Long range. Aug with suppressor, acog, and foregrip. Close range. Commando with reflex, compensator, and angles grip. Always run frags.

General playstyle: IQ is like soldier 76 from overwatch. She really isn’t the best at anything, but she can do almost anything. Keep an eye on true supports and keep them alive. If they die then you immediately take over and use your gadget more and play more slowly. It’s usually best to quickly snap open your gadget once you clear a room, scan around quickly, then get back to combat. Don’t have it out to much, but constant be checking it for traps. If the enemy doesn’t have to many electronic operators then have fun using frags and her solid weapons to shred enemies. Remember YOU are responsible for pulse dying. Everytime you see him.

Tldr: IQ is to Ash as Bandit is to Jager. A combo of support and fragger. If you master her, you will be a virtual salt machine. But unlike ash, always be using your head.

Rainbow Six Siege Pulse Guide By: cW_Thiger


Pulse is a very versatile operator if used right. He can hold down a 1 vs 5 by simply denying the bomb plant or he can just feed all the information that he gathers from his Sensor to his teammates.


  • M1014: The M1014 is a semi-automatic Shotgun with a very high fire rate. It can take down enemies easily on short and Medium Range. It won’t be effective on long range tho.

  • UMP 45: The UMP 45 is a SMG with a rather low fire rate. The gun has a damage output of 38 Damage at a fire rate of 600 bullets per Minute.

  • 5.7USG: Pulses first Pistol is a pistol with a high magazine capacity and low Damage output.

  • M45-MEUSOC: Pulses other secondary has a very high damage output but a low magazine capacity

  • Barbed Wire: Pulse has two very effective gadgets but barbed wire is definitely in his case the worse option, as you can easily C4 ppl through floors.

  • C4: As stated above, the C4 is a very effective weapon for killing people through a destructible floor.

My Load out:

  • UMP-45: Holographic Sight, Vertical Grip, and Muzzle Brake (Here is to be noted that the I use the shotgun occasionally when I know, that I’ll be the one denying a Plant from underneath/Above)

  • M45-Meusoc: Muzzle Brake

  • C4: As stated above


  • Aggressive Flanking/Jumping outside

  • Bomb plants denial

  • Information Gathering

Aggressive Flanking/Jumping outside: So when you want to get a cheeky kill or two all you really gotta do is, go to a window that you expect somebody will just run past, or even where somebody will aim, for example in the OBJ. The break the below part of the window (2 Punches) and get on your Sensor, until you can see somebody. Then you can either directly vault outside and kill that person, or you have punch it one more time before vaulting out.

Bomb plants denial: You have to be very cautious and patient. So what you want to do is the following:

  • 1st: Make sure the area where the planter can go down is destructible from either above or, ideally from below.

  • 2nd: Make sure that the attacking team won’t just stumble upon you and kill you while you have done nothing, but just being in your Pulse sensor.

  • 3rd: Wait for either, Somebody standing completely still or for a call and mark from one of your teammates, that somebody is planting.

  • 4th: either blow him/her with your C4 up or shoot him through the floor.

Information gathering: This is probably the easiest part about playing pulse. What you want to do is, go above an entry point/High traffic area and Pulse if there is somebody and if there is, how many there are. This is really helpful for the rest of your team, as they can react with flanking/Holding an angle on the attacking Team.


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