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Rainbow Six Siege Counter Bandit Trick Guide By: nmmnmmn


In this guide I will explain what the bandit trick is, how and when to use it, and also how to counter a team utilizing it.

What is the bandit trick?

The bandit trick for those who are unaware is a technique where a bandit would place his batteries on a reinforced wall at the same time a thermite or hibana attempts to breach the wall, resulting in the destruction of one exothermic charge or set of kairos pellets. A successful bandit trick can singlehandedly win the round for defenders, as the attackers are left with only one or possibly no way to breach an objective. Here is a good example of a bandit trick winning a round in pro league. Not being able to open the snowmobile garage completely threw off Lethal’s strat in this round, plus hibana getting picked off by herself. This meant that there were only three possible entrances into the bombsite that eRa had to watch, and we see Lethal Gaming walking into the crosshairs of all the eRa players holding simple angles. All of this because Lethal could not open the garage.

How is it done?

For newer players the hardest part about the bandit trick is guessing which wall is going to be breached. In lower ranks I’ve seen players randomly put down their batteries in hopes of catching a thermite charge. While this can work, I wouldn’t recommend it as you only about a 25%, 33% or 50% chance of destroying the breach depending on how large the wall is. I have four other methods that I find more reliable than this.

  • Using sound This in my opinion is the best method, as it requires the least amount of utility; and for good bandit players, is just as reliable as the other three methods. The bandit player stands facing the wall he intends to deny holding his battery, and listens for where the thermite is going to place the charge. Once you hear the charge go down, you place it on the wall where you heard the thermite. This takes a little practice, but is very easy once you get it down.
  • Valkyrie/Echo cam teamwork The next three methods should only apply if you do not have confidence in the bandit player hearing the breach. For this method you place a Valkyrie cam or if possible an echo drone on the other side of the wall you intend to deny, and callout for the bandit which wall is going to be breached.
  • Pulse For this method, the pulse will scan the other side of the wall you intend to deny, and callout for the bandit which wall is going to be breached. If there are multiple enemies on the other side of the wall, the pulse should look for the one that is closest to the wall and standing still to pick out the thermite.
  • Mira The final method and newest is to place a black mirror on the wall you intend to deny, and just let the bandit see where it is going to be breached. This can be risky, as an enemy twitch can open the mirror, giving the attackers a free sightline into the objective. I also don’t recommend this if there are better spots for the mirrors to be.

When and where should I bandit trick?

The most common spots to bandit trick are often on garage sites where that entrance is critical to entering a bombsite or objective, the two most notable being snowmobile garage on Chalet and garage on consulate. A good thing to keep in mind is if the wall you are bandit tricking leads outside. This usually means there is potential for a bandit trick. Bandit tricking should almost always be attempted at the beginning of the round, as the first thing attackers are usually going to do is attack that critical entrance. If you successfully deny one thermite, attackers might decide to leave the wall alone, which can allow your bandit to place his batteries down, and be used as his intended purpose, a 3 speed ACOG roamerKappa. Keep in mind, if the animation for the exothermic charge has already started, and you have not begun the animation for placing a battery, run away from that wall, you will not be able to destroy the charge in time. I’ve seen way too many bandits go down or die to a thermite charge, and it is always hilarious and sad when it happens.

How do I counter the bandit trick?

So if you made it this far, you are probably hoping for a counter to all of this. And lucky for you, there is almost always a way to counter a bandit trick, but it usually requires team coordination, and map knowledge. To begin, we’ll start with the most common bandit trick sites, garages. You will need to bring for this a thatcher or twitch to take out jager devices (I go with thatcher, more reliable IMO), and a grenade operator. For both chalet and consulate garages, you will find that there is a drone hole next to the reinforced walls. After the jager devices are taken out by your thatcher or twitch, throw a grenade through the drone hole, as your thermite plants his charge on the wall closest to the drone hole. The grenade should down or kill the bandit, or he will retreat, allowing you to breach the wall cleanly. This method is great, as it potentially allows for a free kill, but teams should be wary of a faulty grenade toss, as this can result in the death of one or more teammates, including your thermite. Here is a video to help avoid that situation

Another way to counter a bandit trick in some cases is using the verticality of Siege to your advantage. On many potential bandit trick spots, the floor either above or below them is destructible. This can be used to our advantage. For spots above the bandit, take an operator with breaching capability and destroy the floor above the bandit. This will force the bandit to reposition, and if he chooses to stay, will usually result in you getting a free kill. For spots below the bandit, take a grenade operator, or an ash or a buck, and destroy the floor below them. Grenading from below will often result in a kill, but it requires a good sense of timing. Here’s a quick video to help learn the timing(might be dated, practice in terrorist hunt), and another of pro player Canadian messing it up. Using the ash or buck from below will force the bandit to reposition once again. This method requires a decent amount of map knowledge, so if you see a bandit juggling a wall, be mindful of what is above him or below him. I’d also check out r6maps to help with that.

Things to keep in mind

  • The bandit trick is very powerful if successful, but if you overcommit to denying a wall, it can possibly result in your bandit dying. The main reason you should be trying for a bandit trick is not to deny breaching, but to waste utility and time for the attackers. Destroying one exothermic charge and wasting a grenade from the attacking team means you have done a good job, and you should not get greedy.
  • A hibana, 90% of the time cannot be bandit tricked. There is no reliable way to hear where the pellets are going to land, and even so, once they start to detonate they can’t be stopped. Even with this, a hibana hole on a wall is much less potent than a thermite on a wall, and hibanas will usually focus on hatches.
  • For both thermite and bandit players, you should go into your settings and change gadget deployment to advanced. This way you will not be locked into the gadget animation, and can potentially save an exothermic charge, or your bandit. This also allows for fake thermite plants, where he will pretend to breach one wall and go to another. For this it is imperative that the bandit listens for the full sound to go through, so he knows when the charge is actually planted or not.
  • Getting above or below an objective to deny a bandit trick requires control of above or below, so make sure you drone thoroughly for roamers, and if you are bandit tricking, ask for your team to help to hold above or below, so you can safely pull it off.
  • Common bandit trick spots off the top of my head: Chalet – Snowmobile Garage, Consulate – Garage, House – Garage, Clubhouse-Church, Kanal – Boat Garage, Kanal – Control Room, Border – Armory, Skyscraper – Geisha

Rainbow Six Siege Thermite Comprehensive Guide By: Splekner


I thought I would share some wisdom about the operator I’ve played the most since I began playing siege nearly a thousand hours ago. Also, a lot of my advice revolves around playing the Bomb game mode. I recommend turning off Hostage and Secure Area in your matchmaking preferences (this works far better than map preferences, I almost never play another mode). This is because Bomb is much more strategic than the other modes and a thermite who can act as a leader should have a lot of success (more on Thermite’s role as a leader below).


I first want to speak generally about the role a thermite player takes on the team. Because he is the one to be breaching reinforced walls, he has a sort of “VIP” role. This means that before you have your exothermic charges down on the walls that need to be breached, your death will usually mean a round loss for your team. A good thermite CANNOT die before he breaches his walls. This means that until you get to open your walls you should be playing a very support-centric role. Drone for your entry fraggers, allow them to get to the objective for you, and then come forward and open the walls. After you have opened the walls, you are free to push with your team without worry of screwing them over. Though because of your rifle you are still better at hanging back and covering longer angles even after you have your walls open. However he can be a good operator to push with after he breaches if you run a more CQC type loadout like a holosight and/or angled grip.

The importance of Thermite is somewhat less if you also have a Hibana on your team, but you should still play safely in case the Hibana is killed before she can breach.

On the bomb game mode Thermite also has a secondary role that he traditionally fills in coordinated levels of play: the planter. This was because he had such a bad gun (before its recoil was massively buffed) that if he died while planting it wasn’t as big of a loss as other operators which have better rifles to cover him while he is planting. As a Tthermite it can be good to learn the best spots to plant, and use your smoke grenades to cover yourself when you do so.

Thermite is great for the role of a leader on the team. If you love thinking of strategies and getting your friends to push with you (or trying to coerce randoms to do so), Thermite should be your choice. He’s the one that creates the breach that the attack often comes through, so having a good strategy in mind is important when deciding where to use your exothermic charges. Then once your team is in the site, you can smoke yourself off and get the plant down with cover from your team. You won’t always get the most kills, but you will win more rounds with a good Thermite calling strats for the team.


556xi: After its recent buff, Thermite’s assault rifle is much better than it used to be. It has great per bullet damage and very controllable recoil, but a fairly slow rate for fire. This puts it squarely in the middle of the pack when it comes to DPS of attacker weapons. Because of its slow fire rate and low recoil it excels at long range fights and can sometimes be lacking up close, though its high damage makes it always a winner if you can hit your shots. Most Thermite players should be taking this gun almost all the time.

M1014: A semi-auto shotgun used by the FBI, only useful at very short range. Generally not used by Thermite because of his playstyle (detailed above), but if you really love shotguns for some reason or just want to rush then go for it.

M45 MEUSOC: The M1911 is a classic pistol with high damage, but low capacity. It has very little recoil with a muzzle brake. It can be useful in a pinch to down an already wounded enemy in one shot (where the 5.7 would take multiple), but can be lacking in prolonged firefights where you do not have an opportunity to reload your primary.

5.7 USG: The 5.7 is another great choice for a sidearm, with the largest capacity of any pistol in the game (21 shots). It too has very low recoil, but has about half the damage of the M45. Choose this if you are confident in your ability to hit headshots or you simply like to panic spray with your pistol.

SMOKE GRENADES: Smoke grenades are an excellent gadget for Thermite as they can provide cover during a defuser plant. Not quite as useful if you play secure or hostage, though still can be great way to allow you to cross areas where the enemy may be watching. Currently also have bonus utility since it allows Glaz to shoot bananas while invisible.

CLAYMORE: Great at covering runouts and flanks for your team, if you choose a claymore you can either place it down early to cover you while you advance. If playing bomb you can even put your claymore on a planted defuser to get some hilarious (and round-saving!) kills.

My Loadout:

556xi (ACOG, Flash Hider, Vertical Grip, Laser Sight)

Explanations for my loadout choices:

  • I use the ACOG because as I have mentioned before, Thermite is best played passively because of the utility of his gadgets, and because a slow-firing, low-recoil rifle is much better at range. Lots of great Thermite players (even pros) use the holosight with him so this is really just preference.
  • For a barrel attachment this is the one that is most up to personal preference. I would recommend going into a terrorist hunt on normal and just trying out each one (not the silencer) and see which one feels best for you.
  • The vertical grip is great for reduced recoil, makes his gun extremely controllable. However, Thermite’s gun has a much slower ADS time than all other assault rifles other than Blackbeard’s (Rogue-9’s great video on the subject: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_8Q9sTXYbQ), so the angled grip can actually be rather useful here. I simply found the recoil too hard to control for accurate shots at longer ranges for it to be worth it. If you do decide to go with the angled grip I would recommend the muzzle brake so that you can tap fire accurately at long range (even burst can be hard to keep on target).
  • The Laser Sight is probably my most controversial choice, especially to newer players, so let me explain myself. The laser is my compensation for not choosing the angled grip. Because of his slow ADS time, Thermite can lose a lot of unexpected firefights if he isn’t already aiming, as he can die before he gets the scope to his eye. In addition to helping with hipfire, lasers increase the speed at which your shots become accurate while in the process of ADSing, so it lets me quickly and accurately return fire on discovered threats. This is the reason you actually see a lot of lasers in pro league matches. Also, since I am running an ACOG, at very close ranges it can be preferable to hipfire with the laser rather than get potentially disoriented by zooming in at an already very close target. For newer players, it may be a good idea to avoid the laser since having to think about good laser placement is an extra mental process in addition to everything else you have to consider while learning the game. Also, I will be writing another guide addressing laser sights generally that I will link here when it is posted.

M45 (Muzzle, Laser)

Muzzle for lower recoil, laser for the same reason as above, though even more recommended because you don’t normally have your pistol out, it will never really give away your position. I prefer this pistol but plenty of people will go with the other one.

Smoke Grenades

This is a more situational choice, but I generally default to the smoke grenades as it helps cover me when I plant, but if there are no claymores in your roster but several sets of smokes (maybe Ash and Glaz) then it could be useful to take a claymore. Generally your best buddy Thatcher should have a claymore though which is why I can be free to take smokes.

When throwing smoke grenades, try to throw them onto the enemy positions, rather than where you will be planting. If the entire site is filled with smoke, not only can the enemy not see you, neither can your teammates. This means if someone rushes through the smoke to a common plant spot and prefires you, it’s impossible for your teammates to cover you. Of course, if you have a glaz on your team then it’s actually a benefit to smoke off the whole room rather than just the enemy positions, so he’s the only one that can see. Without a glaz though, a good rule of thumb is to throw your smokes as deep as possible, either right in front of or directly on the enemy positions.



As Thermite (and any other operator), your drones are perhaps your most valuable asset. Especially because you want to play passively, having an extra drone to make good calls for your teammates is excellent at saving lives while approaching the objective. Simply leaving your drone outside and driving it to your spawnpoint is far more useful than trying to get a sneaky hiding spot inside, or even in the objective. Your teammates will figure out where the objective is, I promise, you can leave your drone outside. This can be much more difficult in casual because you cannot pick your spawn, but still try to do it. You even have an extra minute to drive your drone around and pick it up so it shouldn’t be too much of an issue. Whatever you do, don’t get your drone killed in the prep phase, whatever intel you get before the round even starts is essentially useless.

Bring a Thatcher!

Thermite becomes useless if Bandit or Mute is denying access to the walls you intend to breach, which is where Thermite’s best buddy Thatcher comes into play. Of course, there are more advanced techniques to remove batteries like destroying the floor above or below the wall you want to breach and shooting the batteries, but simply throwing an EMP is always going to be quicker and easier.

Be Aware of the Bandit Trick!

If you don’t know what a bandit trick is, please read this (http://www.freetoplaymmorpgs.com/rainbow-six-siege/rainbow-six-siege-counter-bandit-trick-guide-by-nmmnmmn/) excellent guide before continuing. Unless you know for a fact that there is no bandit on the defense (or bandit is dead), you should always keep the bandit trick in mind whenever you are looking to breach a reinforced wall. If bandit can trick even one of your charges it can be a huge problem for your team, and your chances of winning go way down. If there is any possibility of a bandit trick, always check behind the reinforced wall with a drone before placing a charge (another reason to save your prep phase drone). If there is a bandit anywhere nearby, you need to find a way to remove him before proceeding. There are a few ways to do this, in increasing order of difficulty.

  • Have Hibana breach first: Hibana pellets cannot be zapped by batteries once ignited, so Hibana can shoot one set of pellets and immediately ignite them, making it almost impossible to Bandit trick. Usually once there is a hole in the wall the bandit will back off, and you are free to Thermite a walkable hole into the objective. Just be careful to not get shot through the hole Hibana just made. Smoke grenades can be useful to cover yourself here.
  • Grenades through a drone hole. If there is a drone hole near to where you are trying to breach, you can throw an uncooked frag grenade through in order to force bandit to run away and place your charge safely. Make sure there are no Jager devices that will catch the frag (an EMP from thatcher can destroy it if there is), and make sure to detonate the charge quickly so bandit does not have a chance to come back and place a battery after the explosion.
  • Bait out all of bandits batteries for Thatcher. This is only viable if you know bandit is down to fewer batteries than thatcher has grenades. Using the advanced gadget deployment setting (recommend for everyone, but especially Thermite players), you can cancel your Thermite placement midway, but by that time bandit has usually already placed his battery, as it is hard to hear the sound stop while placing a battery. If thatcher quickly throws an EMP while you are baiting, you can destroy bandit’s battery before he can pick it up. Do this until all four batteries are confirmed destroyed, then breach normally.
  • Open above or below to force bandit out or kill him: this is viable in many common bandit trick spots, where there is a destructible floor or ceiling. Get a teammate like sledge, buck, ash, or anyone with breach charges to go and destroy the floor. Bandit will either run away or be shot by your teammate, at which point you can safely breach the wall.

I hope you guys have found my guide to Thermite useful, I really think he’s a great operator for anyone to learn, as he’s so vital to a team’s success. If anyone has any questions, please comment them and I’ll answer to the best of my ability. Also any corrections, extra tips, or suggestions for the guide would be very welcome.

Rainbow Six Siege Twitch Guide By: saxojam


Twitch may not be an entire replacement for Thatcher, but can certainly be used as a viable substitute.


  • F2: The F2 is a great automatic rifle option for attackers, due to it’s good fire rate, and relatively high damage output. The F2 relies on a (or a few) quick bursts of accurate shots to take out enemies.

  • 417: The 417 is probably the closest that you can get to Glaz’s rifle (without actually being Glaz). The 417 has a faster fire rate than Glaz (with lower damage of course), with still high damage output. The 417 is a great option for anyone looking to stick back and hold/cover angles.

  • LFP586: Your revolver is relatively accurate, deals a massive amount of damage, and has a huge recoil. This would be recommended for a situation in which you want to rely on your sidearm for a quick precise shot on a damaged enemy over range.

  • P9: Compared to the alternative, your revolver, the P9 offers lower damage, but far better accuracy and higher fire rate. If you wish to rely on your sidearm for frantic situations, this is a far better choice than the revolver.

  • CLAYMORE: The claymore is of extreme use to you as Twitch, seeing as you will likely be spending a decent amount of time in a corner, on your drones. With the use of a claymore, you could easily save your own life while in your drone.

  • BREACHING CHARGE: The breaching charge, which most of you already know, breaches a walkable hole in unreinforced walls, doors, or windows. This is an extremely helpful tool in any situation.

My Loadout:

Note that my personal preference leans away from ACOG sights, as I tend to get close to the enemy, and ACOG is very disorienting at close ranges.

  • F2: Holographic Sight, Flash Hider, NO LASER SIGHT, and Verticle Grip

  • P9: Muzzle Brake

  • BREACHING CHARGE: Used as described in loadout details.

STATS: Twitch is a standard operator, with 2 speed and 2 armor.


  • DO NOT send your drone into the objective room in prep phase. You have no reason to put your drone in harm’s way during prep phase, take the time to eliminate any and as many cameras as possible.

  • Don’t focus too much on zapping people unless they are downed or AFK. Zapping someone with your drone is a quick way to get it discovered and shot.

  • Send your drone into objective AFTER prep phase, the enemy team will not be looking for drones as actively if you let 10 seconds or so pass after prep phase. This will allow you an easier time eliminating any of Mute’s jammers or Bandit’s batteries.

  • Keep in mind that your drone can not jump. This means that when attempting to break gadgets, cameras, going into the objective room, or even just using your drone in general… you should hug a wall with drone holes/lots of objects to hide around or under for cover.

  • Treat each drone like it’s the life of your operator. You want to use your shock drones to the absolute best of your ability, they aren’t as expendable as the other drones.

  • Keep in mind that Mira’s black mirror gadget (Window) can be shot out using your drone. This should be one of your priorities after prep phase.

  • Laser sights on your F2 may not be an entirely bad thing. The spread on the F2 can be very precise, and I could start shooting accurately before you fully aim down sights. (Although be very cautious of where you point the laser, it can easily give away your position).

  • Use your drone to get your TEAM an easy kill. If your teammate needs to kill somebody, and you want to help them out.. shock them with your drone and roll around a bit to distract the enemy, so your teammate can take advantage of that.

Did I miss anything essential? Let me know and I will add it as soon as possible.

Rainbow Six Siege Mira Tips and Tricks By: Toch_Lighte


Mira is a really good operator in quite a few ways. Her loadout is great and her gadget is very useful, but many people don’t use her to her full effectiveness, and can sometimes even be a detriment to their own team because of the mistakes they make. Here’s a little collection of tips and tricks to help you avoid those mistakes and play her strengths to their fullest extent.


  • The Vector is an incredible gun, and its hipfire is probably the best of any automatic in the game. Use a vertical grip, preferred sight (Holo looks great on it), and a Flash Hider. Recoil control is really easy. Don’t spray the entire mag at once past short range, bursts of 5-7 bullets work fine.

  • The ITA12S is a good up-close backup, and the utility is also very nice. You can use it for opening hatches, widening the FoV of the mirrors, and making small rotation holes. Put a sight on it (like the Reflex), because it obstructs a lot of your view while ADS if you have iron sights. Also use a laser because its spread is high.

  • The Nitro Cell can help lock down choke points when combined with Mira’s gadget, and the deployable shield can block twitch drones from going through doorways to keep the mirrors safe.

Countering Twitch: always do these things every round, pls

  • Don’t place your mirrors immediately, and instead get on the cameras after placing reinforcements and getting armor. Wait 20-30 seconds watching them – if any get destroyed in that time, the attackers have a Twitch.

  • (If they have Twitch) Ask your teammates if they shot a shock drone yet – once the first one is destroyed, you can safely put your mirrors up.

  • If you know a shock drone is trying to get one of your mirrors, stand between the drone and the canister. Twitch won’t be able to open the window, only shock you once or twice.

Placing the Mirrors:

  • Check line of sight to windows and doorways before placing mirrors to see if someone outside the room could get a clear shot on the canister – if they can, don’t place it there, because it’ll be a free window into the objective for the attackers. You can crouch while placing mirrors to place them out of view from across a room.

  • After placing them, (if possible) go around to the other side and shoot the breakable wall to the left and right of the mirror with your shotgun. This will increase the field of view when looking through the mirror.

  • If you’re using them to pre-fire a chokepoint, place them as close as possible to the object you’re pre-firing through.

  • If you have an unreinforced wall, crouch and place the mirror low. The mirror will provide cover for you while crouched, and if you want to shoot back you can just stand up.

  • You don’t have to use both mirrors every time. If the only other place to put a mirror is a bad spot, just don’t place it. Unused mirrors can be placed later in the round for extra intel.

  • If your mirror is placed in an objective, 99% of the time breaking it will be more of a detriment to your team than anything.

Using the mirrors:

  • Seriously, you don’t have to break them, and almost always shouldn’t. When broken, they’re essentially an X-Kairos hole, and they WILL be used by the attackers.

  • You can ping through the mirrors, both to indicate to your teammates where an enemy is, and also to make pre-firing even easier.

  • With a mirror placed facing a chokepoint/area you anticipate the enemy to come through, place your Nitro Cell somewhere it can be used to kill the enemy as soon as they enter. Oftentimes, the sight of the mirror combined with the sound of the nitro cell is enough to dissuade anyone from coming that way.

  • When/if a mirror is broken open, make sure to tell your teammates, as it’s a very big vulnerability once open.

  • After Twitch, Hibana is the biggest threat to Mira. If you have a Bandit or Mute on your team, ask them to place one of their gadgets on the window’s reinforcement.

That’s all I could think of, but if I missed anything then tell me and I’ll add it!

Rainbow Six Siege Montagne Guide By: Toch_Lighte


I know I’ve already done one of these for the shield operators, but honestly Montagne deserves his own guide. The only other operator that I have half as many hours with as Monty is Doc – so this is probably going to be my most well-informed and complete guide so far. He’s fun to play, difficult to kill, and is an incredible support operator – and despite his revolver nerf, if you play him right he’s still a killing machine.

  • Montagne requires a lot of patience. He’s very difficult to master, and he’s the one operator most prone to being killed by stuff outside of his control. C4 flying through his shield, people teleporting behind him, a slight bit of latency letting someone shoot him in the head when it looks like they’re right in front of him.. Not only that, but you need to be patient with your teammates, and patient with the enemy. A large portion of playing Montagne is waiting for just the right moment to strike, or knowing when you need to just let your teammates do the shooting for you. And most of the time, your teammates should be doing the shooting.

  • Montagne is a support operator! He exists to help his team – not to get kills. If you’re going to play him, communicate with your team.

  • He’s the anvil, and his teammates are the hammer. The hammer is a lot more effective when striking the enemy against the anvil, and the anvil is useless without the hammer.


  • P9 – A low damage pistol with low recoil, a large magazine and a quick reload. Its damage is, in fact, the lowest of all pistols in the game. Its hipfire accuracy is okay – it’s good for poking at the enemy, but usually not good at killing unless you can get a headshot.

  • LFP586 – A high damage revolver with high recoil, a small magazine, and a slow reload. The exact opposite of the P9, it is capable of downing or killing most operators in only two shots to the chest, however its recoil is difficult to control when firing quickly, and its hipfire accuracy is terrible.

  • For gadgets, Montagne has access to either smoke grenades or flashbangs. Smokes can help if you’re sticking close to your team, either to help in a push, cover a Thermite charge being planted or to allow Glaz to peek into a room. Flashes are more helpful if you tend to move in on your own and distract the enemy.

My preferred loadout is the LFP586 with a laser sight attached, and flashbangs. The revolver only requiring 2 shots (3 vs. a 3-armor w/ rook armor) is really helpful for poking the enemy , and the flashbangs come in handy much more frequently than the smokes, and are more reliable too.

When using the revolver, don’t spam your shots unless you are within 5 meters of the enemy, otherwise the recoil will take your aim off target quite a bit. Space your shots just enough so you can reliably land two in a short period.

What Monty is:

  • Monty is a tank. He draws fire from the enemy and easily survives it, letting his teammates do the attacking.

  • He is an intel-gatherer. Think of him as a big drone that can’t be easily killed, and relay information to your teammates.

  • He is a distraction. The enemy will have to either dispatch you, or focus on your teammates – but you are both a threat.

What Monty isn’t:

  • Monty is not a lone wolf. While he can do well on his own, he is 10x more effective while cooperating with a teammate.

  • He is not a fragger. His guns are less for killing and moreso for not leaving him entirely offenceless.

  • He is not portable cover. While his shield is big enough to cover a teammate, it’s a very bad idea to use his shield as so. Not only is he at risk of being shot in the back, but his shield does not block explosives – it only prevents him from dying to them.

Approaching the building:

  • Montagne is the only operator immune to spawn peeks and rushes. Make it a habit to extend your shield as soon as you spawn and start moving forwards. In the case of spawn rushers (running out of the building to kill you in spawn), immediately stop moving – at least one person will be able to use your shield as cover. If you don’t encounter any spawn rushers, keep moving towards the building and look closely for any broken windows. If you see any, tell your teammates about them and if possible, ping right next to the broken window – not right on top of it, otherwise the ping will obscure the enemy.

  • Keep your shield extended as you move forwards, only unextending to sprint in areas you’re 100% sure no attackers will be able to shoot you.

  • If the enemy has a Frost on their team, don’t enter through windows. Both of Montagne’s only weapons are unreliable for destroying Welcome Mats – the P9’s low damage means you oftentimes can’t destroy it in the time it takes to vault, and the revolver’s high recoil means landing multiple shots on the Welcome Mat is difficult. Ask a teammate to throw a grenade in to break the trap first, or go a different route.

  • When breaking open a barricaded doorway or window, remember that your shield doesn’t cover you while meleeing. Stand off to the side as far as you can, and only get as close to the doorway as much as you need to, but also break it as quickly as possible. Consider asking a teammate to shoot it open for you.

  • Hug walls, be mindful of how covered you are by your shield, and keep facing the enemy. Be confident in your teammates’ ability to cover your back, because turning around to check could easily get you killed.

How to help your team:

AKA the thing you should be doing as much as possible. You won’t get many kills, but your teammates will be able to get them because of you.

  • Keep hugging the walls – they’re your best friend, preventing you from getting surrounded.

  • Stay in view of your teammates if possible – if someone tries to rush you, your teammates will be able to shoot them down.

  • Harrass the enemy. Don’t endanger yourself, but push up near them, marking their location for a teammate to potentially prefire them. Your presence is often enough to make an enemy retreat.

  • Go behind the enemy, and corral them towards your teammates. When running away from you, an enemy’s focus is almost entirely on breaking contact with you. They’ll oftentimes run straight for the only exit without realizing that they’ve been pushed into a trap.

  • Be a distraction

The 1v1:

After the revolver nerf, Montagne is no longer the incredible 1v1er that he used to be. However, he is still capable of taking on most enemies in a 1v1 if played smartly.

  • If you try to engage them head-on while they’re focused on you, you’re going to lose. Doesn’t matter how good of a shot you are with the revolver, they’ve got an automatic gun and you’re right in front of them – a single bullet in your head is all that’s needed to end the fight in their favor. Be smart, use every advantage you can get.

  • Don’t let them run behind you. If this means hugging a wall or even backing yourself into a corner, then so be it – your #1 priority should always be your own survival, and getting flanked is the quickest way to die.

  • Wait for them to reload, or deploy a gadget, or run away, or do anything that leaves them vulnerable for a moment – that is the time where you strike. When the enemy is occupied or unable to fight back, that is the only time you should ever aim down the sights in a 1v1.

  • The most effective way to get accurate pot-shots off on enemies is to: Wait for them to briefly turn their attention away > Un-extend your shield > Simultaneously lean to the side (so they can’t as effectively pre-aim your head) and aim down sights > Fire once and re-extend your shield before they can fire back. If you can manage to do this just two times and get two body shots on anyone except for a 3-armor with rook plates, then it’s almost guaranteed that they’ll either be dead or down. Assuming you’re using the revolver, of course.

  • Don’t discount hipfire. It’s inaccurate and entirely RNG, but if you have some cover (you’re peeking through a window, or standing to the side of a doorframe) then feel free to take some shots at the enemy.

  • If the fight is too risky (you aren’t confident in your ability to kill them or it’s a Caveira and you don’t want to risk an interrogation), don’t try to fight them – just try to keep their attention on you and wait for one of your teammates to come help you kill the enemy.

Mastering the 2v1:

Montagne may be the best 1v1er, but you know what’s better than a 1v1? That’s right, a 2v1. With the help of a teammate, you can effectively take down almost any roamer together – you provide the distraction and intel, and your teammate provides the firepower.

  • Surround the enemy – you need to force the enemy to focus on either you or your teammate, so that they’ll have to turn their back on one of you.

  • Pull as much attention towards yourself as possible without endangering yourself. Unextend and re-extend repeatedly, take pot-shots without aiming down the sights, and if they realize what you’re doing and stop paying attention to you then just ADS and shoot them. Either they pay too much attention to you and die to your teammate, or don’t pay enough attention to you and die to you. It’s lose-lose for them if both you and your teammate play safely.

  • You can potentially herd enemies towards your teammates by simply approaching them – make sure to tell your teammates which way the enemies are coming so that they can position themselves accordingly.

Playing the objective:

  • If they have a Smoke that hasn’t used his canisters yet, don’t enter the objective, ESPECIALLY if there is barbed wire everywhere. Try to bait the Smoke into using them all on you before you’ve even entered. Do it safely and properly and you should have at least 55 health left.

  • Hugging the wall, try to approach dug-in defenders to drive them out of their hiding spots and into the open.

  • If there’s a single defender watching an entrance, ping their location so that a teammate can prefire the enemy.

  • You can block anyone from using small doorways by extending your shield and standing directly in the middle of it.

Working with teammates:

  • Communicate! It’s the most important part, and it’s half of Monty’s job. The information Montagne can give is absolutely essential.

  • Montagne’s responsibilities include: Clearing rooms, distracting enemies, providing a bit of cover, blocking doorways, forcing enemies out of position, and generally being a major annoyance to the defenders. Above all, simply staying alive and forcing enemies to be aware of you is helpful.

  • If you’re with teammates, please just stop wiggling. You’re going to get yourself shot in the back of the head if you keep dancing around while people are trying to use your shield as cover. Which they shouldn’t be doing.

  • On Bomb and Secure, your shield is a huge help when going for the objective. You can block people out of a room or cover a plant

What you need to be aware of:

There are some bugs, glitches and otherwise un-intuitive things involving Monty – they’re dumb ways to die, and sometimes can’t be helped, but knowing is half the battle.

  • Most importantly, when an enemy is within a few meters of you, you need to predictwhich direction they’re heading. Even the smallest amounts of latency causes an enemy to appear to be slightly behind where they actually are. In a match with high ping and a 1-speed is trying to run around you? Nope, you’re not looking right at them – not on their screen. On their screen, they’re already at your side, maybe even behind you.

  • When you’re blocking a door, don’t wiggle. It’ll give the enemy an opportunity to squeeze past you and ‘teleport’ behind you. If you’re in the very center of the doorway and staying still then you’ll probably be fine.

  • C4 can and will glitch through your shield if you’re moving or it hits the sides of it. Doesn’t matter that you only take 25 damage from C4 now when extended, you still need to move back from it or it’ll kill you.

  • Even when backed into a corner, you still might be vulnerable from the sides. If 2 or more people are working together to get a sliver of an angle on you while you’re in a corner (or one is prone at your feet), then it’s time to move.

  • When unextended, your shield does not move up or down with your view – even while looking directly upwards, your shield will still be positioned straight ahead of you. Be mindful of this near stairways or indoor balconies.

  • You CANNOT block people from vaulting over things – this includes windows and doorways that have deployable shields placed in them.

General tips:

  • If you are not shooting, meleeing, running, reloading or doing anything else that requires you to be unextended, then you should be extended.

  • When reloading, or when your shield is hit by melee, it gets pushed off to your left side. If you turn to the right when either of those happen, you can keep the shield between you and the enemy when you’re most vulnerable.

  • People constantly underestimate Montagne. Due to him oftentimes sitting around enemies with his shield extended and not doing anything, they tend to write him off as a non-threat in the moment or even straight up ignore him. Use this to your advantage, and wait for them to do something stupid, like put down a deployable shield right in front of you.

  • If the enemy can get around you, they WILL get around you. Unless there are teammates nearby covering you, don’t walk right up to an enemy with your shield extended, or they’ll knife/shoot you in the side.

  • Be unpredictable – randomly extend and un-extend your shield, take pot-shots, move towards enemies unexpectedly – it’s all about getting in their heads and distracting them.

  • Pressing 1 will put your shield on your back. Keep this in mind if you need to revive a teammate, turn your back on the enemy to vault back through a window, or plant the defuser in a corner.

  • Don’t crouch when near an enemy! Even that little bit of height advantage is enough for them to shoot right over your shield.

  • Meleeing doesn’t happen immediately – there’s a slight delay between pressing your melee key and the hit connecting.

  • If it’s completely safe and nothing is happening, reload – every bullet in your revolver counts. Even if you’ve only shot once, reload anyway when you get the chance. People are hesitant to follow after you if you go out of sight, so you can pretty safely fall back a few feet and reload behind a wall.

  • Extending your shield will cancel your reload animation – if someone pushes you while you’re reloading, immediately extend your shield. Alternatively, you could melee them, but that’s riskier.

  • Don’t lean around corners – you’ve got a big shield, use it!

How to not be countered as Montagne:

  • Pulse: His pulse scanner and C4 allow him to wallbang you through destructible surfaces or toss an explosive onto the floor beneath your feet. Stay on the move if standing on a destructible floor, and don’t turn your back on destructible walls for too long.

  • Caveira: It only takes 1 (or 2) point-blank shots with her pistol to instantly down you. Avoid her like the plague if you don’t have backup, because the consequences for failing a 1v1 against her are much worse than the advantage for killing her is.

  • Frost: Her Welcome Mats can be a real pain. Move carefully, check stair landings, and don’t move anywhere that you haven’t looked at. Any time it’s safe, destroy her welcome mats so you don’t back into them later.

  • Kapkan: Is hit-or-miss. Check every doorway and you should be good, and by facing the EDD while extended you can survive an EDD.

  • Smoke: Your biggest enemy, Smoke can really ruin your day. Bait him into wasting all of his smokes before you try to push the objective, and don’t move through any barbed wire while he still has any canisters left. When baiting him, make sure you have plenty of room to back up.

How to counter Montagne:

  • Smoke and Frost are both great counters to Monty. With Smoke, never use one of your canisters until he’s in a position that he’d take at least 3 ticks of damage before being able to move out of the smoke – mostly when he’s on the objective or in a corner. With Frost, place one of your mats in a window you expect him to come through, and your others around a corner – Monty’s shield prevents him from seeing what’s directly in front of him, so if you place it right around a corner he won’t even be able to see it unless he un-extends his shield.

  • NEVER put all of your attention on Montagne if there are other enemies alive. He is a distraction, and if you get distracted by him then you’ll be shot in the back. Monty is not that good at killing and is very loud when his shield un-extends, and his teammates are just as big of, if not more of a threat, than he is. Just remember where he is and be ready to shoot him if the opportunity arises.

  • Most important of all if you want to actually kill him, you need to make him think he’s safe. If you’re not right up against his shield, desperately trying to somehow kill him, then he’ll relax a bit and not worry about those tiny slivers of vulnerability, which you can then use to your advantage.

  • Keeping him in your view, aim towards where you think one of his teammates might come from. It will look like you’re not focused on him. As soon as you spot a vulnerability (such as his shield turned very slightly too far to one side), you can easily flick back to him and take him down.

  • Don’t get too close to him. A good Montagne player will be able to counter you easily if you go for the knife kill. Keep your distance and pre-aim his head – if he wants to get any hits on you, he’ll be forced to ADS and expose his head, allowing you an easy kill.

  • If you have a nitro cell, toss it right next to him but don’t detonate it. He’ll be forced to back away or risk being blown up if he walks past it. If he tries to shoot the nitro cell, you can shoot him in the head.

  • Pretend to give him an advantage. A Monty main will wait and wait for you to be occupied with the littlest thing before he springs into action. Make him think you’re reloading, or running away, or deploying a gadget – he’ll drop his shield to kill you, leaving him open to a headshot.

  • If you melee his shield, don’t melee again – just immediately shoot. There’s a delay between meleeing twice, but there’s practically no delay between meleeing and then shooting.

How to counter Montagne with a teammate:

  • If he’s wedged into a corner, go prone at Montagne’s feet and tell your teammate to start hitting Monty’s shield – each melee hit will jostle the shield slightly, allowing you to get shots on his feet.

  • If he’s near a surface that can be wallbanged through, ping his location and have your teammate go to the other side of the wall to shoot him through it.

  • If he’s not in a corner, just surround him – his shield can only cover about 90 degrees.

  • He’s not protected from C4 that lands directly above or below him.

  • All tips from the ‘countering Monty while alone’ section are still applicable with a teammate.

As with my other guides I’ll answer any questions you may have, and if there’s anything I forgot then feel free to remind me!

Rainbow Six Siege Doc Guide By: saxojam


Doc may not seem like a very viable character in a game revolving around quick deaths and one-shot headshots, but many of you would be surprised with his potential if used correctly.


  • MP5: The MP5 is an extremely viable SMG for defenders, and can kill an enemy with a few well-placed shots. The amount of ammo compared to the recoil and damage with the MP5 makes it a great option for defenders overall.

  • P90: The P90 offers relatively accurate spraying capabilities, with high ammo and an above average firing rate. P90 is great for most to all ranges, if you are not confident in the ability to land your first few shots like you would with the MP5.

  • SG-CQB: Typically as Doc I (in my experience) would recommend staying away from the shotgun. However, that being said, the shotgun is still viable (although situational). The SG-CQB is your standard defense shotgun, and could get you out of sticky situations if you are holding a tight angle.

  • P9: Compared to the alternative, your revolver, the P9 offers lower damage, but far better accuracy and higher fire rate. If you wish to rely on your sidearm for frantic situations, this is a far better choice than the revolver.

  • LFP586: Your revolver is relatively accurate, deals a massive amount of damage, and has a huge recoil. This would be recommended for a situation in which you want to rely on your sidearm for a quick precise shot on a damaged enemy over range.

  • BARBED WIRE: Barbed wire could mean the difference between your teammates living or dying. If an enemy shoots them when they peek, the enemy will have far more difficult of a time finishing off your teammates if they are forced to walk into barbed wire first.

  • DEPLOYABLE SHIELD: The deployable shield is my personal favorite for Doc’s accessories. The shield offers the protection you may need to safely heal your teammates or defense them while they crawl into view.

My Loadout:

Note that my personal preference leans away from ACOG sights, as I tend to get close to the enemy, and ACOG is very disorienting at close ranges.

  • MP5: Holographic Sight, Verticle Grip, NO LASER SIGHT, and Flash Hider

  • P9: Muzzle Brake

  • DEPLOYABLE SHIELD: I use the shield as described in my Loadout details.

STATS: Doc is a 1 speed, 3 armor operator. You should keep this in mind when in game. If there is a downed teammate nearly on the other side of the map, don’t try to go to them unless you are absolutely sure that you may slowly work your way to them and help them safely.


  • Aggressive Doc

Doc can be an extremely good aggressive peeker or fighter. The ability to peek out and shoot people, just to dip back in and heal yourself up as if it never happened is incredible. Even if you may be downed by someone while peeking around a corner as Doc, you can revive yourself assuming that you properly hug the wall or opposite side of the corner as the enemy.

  • Defensive Doc

Doc can overheal his remaining teammates near the end of the round or whenever a rush/attack is about to begin. The extra 40 health on teammates is absolutely going to be the difference between life and death for your teammates, and possibly even the round.

  • Friendly Doc

This is how most people play Doc, and see as the only real way to play him. This is simply where you would treat Doc as a normal character, simply attempting to kill the enemy and defend the objective. Of course, healing teammates where appropriate.

All of that being said, that doesn’t mean that Doc shouldn’t heal teammates mid-round when he is focusing on another tactic, Doc should be able to adjust when necessary.


  • Although there is an aggressive Doc playstyle, that doesn’t mean wildly start peeking. Peek when you should, just know that you can recover from a bit of damage when peeking.

  • Keep in mind that your healing projectiles have a dropoff, and don’t shoot as straight as normal bullets.

  • Remember that you may heal enemies with your gadget as well.

  • Don’t heal a teammate (or yourself) if they are just 10 health down unless necessary.

  • Your medical gun has the ability to instant revive hostages or teammates from a range.

  • DO NOT remove your hands from your keyboard/mouse/controller when you are downed, be ready to revive yourself in a fight.

  • If you have to dip out of a fight to reload, check your health and be prepared to heal yourself if fit.

  • Don’t ONLY heal if a teammate is low on health. Using your overheal in battles will likely be the difference between a teammate (or yourself) dying or living.

  • Don’t overheal your teammates or yourself at the beginning of the round, keep in mind that the overhealing effect is not infinite.

  • If you have the option, Doc goes GREAT with Rook. The extra defense for teammates will give you far more opportunities to heal your teammates due to their armor. (They won’t die as quickly)

Did I miss anything essential? Let me know and I will add it to the guide as soon as possible!

Rainbow Six Siege Rook Guide By: saxojam


Many people underestimate the power that comes with a few bullets of protection provided by Rook’s armor.


  • MP5: The MP5 is an extremely viable SMG for defenders, and can kill an enemy with a few well-placed shots. The amount of ammo compared to the recoil and damage with the MP5 makes it a great option for defenders overall.

  • P90: The P90 offers relatively accurate spraying capabilities, with high ammo and an above average firing rate. P90 is great for most to all ranges, if you are not confident in the ability to land your first few shots like you would with the MP5.

  • SG-CQB: Typically as Doc I (in my experience) would recommend staying away from the shotgun. However, that being said, the shotgun is still viable (although situational). The SG-CQB is your standard defense shotgun, and could get you out of sticky situations if you are holding a tight angle.

  • P9: Compared to the alternative, your revolver, the P9 offers lower damage, but far better accuracy and higher fire rate. If you wish to rely on your sidearm for frantic situations, this is a far better choice than the revolver.

  • LFP586: Your revolver is relatively accurate, deals a massive amount of damage, and has a huge recoil. This would be recommended for a situation in which you want to rely on your sidearm for a quick precise shot on a damaged enemy over range.

  • IMPACT GRENADE: Impact grenades are great for dealing some really fast damage on an area, and opening up holes in between sites or just for lines of sight.

  • DEPLOYABLE SHIELD: Rook’s deployable shield may also be used to provide extra protection, only blocking 100% of bullets this time. If you wish to be a full-fledged defender as Rook, a deployable shield can help you get there.

My Loadout:

Note that my personal preference leans away from ACOG sights, as I tend to get close to the enemy, and ACOG is very disorienting at close ranges.

  • MP5: Holographic Sight, Verticle Grip, NO LASER SIGHT, and Flash Hider

  • P9: Muzzle Brake

  • DEPLOYABLE SHIELD: I use the shield as described in my Loadout details.


  • Please for the love of god, place your armor pack down at the immediate start of the round, before you reinforce or do anything else.

  • Depending on your map knowledge, you may want to use your shotgun for it’s breaching abilities, and shoot through a floor or something of the sort. This is especially helpful when playing vertically.

  • Remind your team constantly to pick up the armor if they don’t up until the end of prep phase. Warn your team that if they do not pick up the armor by a certain time (I like to use 2 minute and 30 seconds remaining, otherwise known as 30 seconds into the round), you will shoot the armor pack. If there is remaining armor, the enemy team can pick it up.

  • NOTE: Don’t necessarily always destroy the armor, because if someone is downed and gets revived, they may pick up another armor vest.

  • If you have less than 5 people, you may immediately shoot the armor pack once everyone on your team has retrieved armor.

  • No matter which Doc playstyle you are using, you should always help your team when they need it.

  • Rook mixes brilliantly with Doc, if you have the ability to have both operators on your team, it is advised. Doc will be far more able to heal teammates with the protection of Rook’s armor plates.

  • As many player’s don’t know, simply keep in mind that your armor increases the chances of someone being put into a DBNO (downed/injured) state instead of dying.

Did I miss anything essential? Let me know and I will add it to the guide as soon as possible!

Rainbow Six Siege Doc Tips and Tricks By: Toch_Lighte


Doc is essentially the Montagne of the defending side – his special gadget gives him a lotmore staying power than any other defenders – assuming he doesn’t get shot in the head. Combined with Rook, he can tank the most shots of any operator in the game – not only can he overheal himself to 140 HP, but he can revive himself back up to 75 HP once he’s downed, potentially giving him a little over 200 HP in a drawn-out firefight, plus the damage mitigation from his armor. He’s my favorite defending operator due to his tanky nature and his ability to support his team with extra health.

  • Doc’s stim shots are only useful if you actually use them. Play more passively and let your teammates do the peeking so you can top up their health with one of your shots if you want to help your team.


  • P90 – An SMG with a high firerate, moderate recoil and low damage. Its hits-to-kill is higher than other SMGs, but its 50 round magazine negates the need to reload as frequently.

  • MP5 – A jack-of-all-trades SMG. Much like the L85A2, it doesn’t particularly excel at anything, but neither does it have any shortcomings. This makes it excellent at medium and long range due to its stable recoil and decent damage, however its DPS up close isn’t particularly impressive.

  • SG-CQB – The strongest of the pump action shotguns, however it seems to have a lower firerate than the others. If you use Doc as a lurker/roamer (I wouldn’t recommend doing this if you’re playing seriously), then the shotgun is a viable option – also a decent choice if the objective you’re defending is mostly close quarters.

  • P9 – A low-damage pistol with low recoil and a large magazine.

  • LFP586 – A revolver that hits like a DMR with even more recoil, a long reload and only 6 shots.

  • For gadgets, he has the option of either barbed wire or a deployable shield. Mostly up to preference, since both can be very helpful.

My recommended loadout is the MP5 (Vertical grip, flash hider and ACOG) and the LFP586 (no laser sight) and barbed wire, because it’s overall just a really helpful gadget for your team.

How does the Stim Pistol work?:

  • Press your gadget button to pull out the Stim – you can aim and shoot with it just like a normal pistol.

  • Shooting a teammate with it will heal them for up to 40 HP, and they’ll be given overheal (extra HP over 100 that will slowly decay) if they’d lost less than 40 HP. Shooting a teammate that is DBNO (Down but not out) will revive them with 75 HP, as opposed to 50 from getting them up manually.

  • You can heal yourself with your Stim pistol – when you’ve taken it out, press the gadget button again, and you’ll use it on yourself. This means you can pick yourself back up when you’ve been downed, too.

  • The Stim pistol’s shot flies straight, but slowly – aim directly at a teammate that’s staying still to get an accurate shot.

Who should I use the Stim pistol on? When should I use it?:

  • If you’ve lost ~35 or more HP, use it on yourself. Your survival is helpful to your team, because it means you’ll live long enough to make use of the rest of your Stim shots – giving just one of them to a teammate could change the outcome of a gunfight, and thus a round.

  • If a teammate is at around half health and has lost at least ~35 HP, shoot them once with your Stim to get them back to near full. That’ll let them take one or two extra shots when they get in a firefight again.

  • If a roamer has returned to you with low HP (20 or less) down them first, then manually pick them back up. This will give them 50 health, and you can then shoot them with your Stim pistol to get them up to 90 HP – it’s essentially giving them the HP of two stim shots for the price of one. Note that this means they won’t be able to be downed again without dying, which is why it should only be done on roamers – and if you’re unsure, then ask them first.

  • If you have Rook plates and/or are defending the objective, save your last Stim shot for when you REALLY need it. This could mean reviving a downed teammate or reviving yourself. Being able to pick yourself back up is an extremely valuable ability when the clock is running down and the attackers are pushing the objective.

  • If you have more than 1 shot left and a teammate near full HP asks for one, give it to them. They probably want it because they think they’re going to engage the enemy very soon, or because they know they will, such as when they’re about to rush out or engage in a peek battle. The extra 40 HP could help them come out on top.

  • Don’t waste your Stim shots by trying to heal someone that’s moving. If they really want to be healed then they’ll stand still for you, or you can ask them to hold still.

  • If the end of the round is near, give yourself and any teammates nearby an extra shot, and leave one for yourself so that you can pick yourself back up once downed.

When your teammate is playing Doc:

  • If you want to get healed, HOLD STILL. Don’t crouch, don’t move a couple inches to the side, don’t look in a different direction – nothing. Just wait those one or two seconds it takes for them to shoot you with their Stim pistol.

  • When you get downed, try to get into Doc’s line of sight so he can revive you from afar.

  • Don’t ask for health when you won’t fully benefit from the Stim shot.

Misc. Tips:

  • If someone is defending the floor above or below you and the floor between you two is destructible, shoot a hole in it that your teammate can stand on top of so you can heal him from the other floor.

  • You can do the same thing with destructible walls.

  • Sprinting right after you press your gadget button will cancel taking out your Stim pistol – don’t sprint while taking it out.

  • If you’re going to down a teammate to give them extra HP, DON’T use the revolver. I had to learn the hard way, but unless they have Rook plates then the revolver WILL kill anyone with low health.

  • If your teammates want to be healed, it’s their job to come to you if they’re halfway across the building from the objective – which is usually the case with roamers. Don’t go putting your 1-speed butt in danger to heal someone.

  • Rook synergizes with Doc extremely well – his armor plates makes going DBNO much more likely, allowing Doc to more reliably revive teammates that go down. The damage mitigation from the armor also makes the Stim shots even more valuable, because each shot will give even more effective HP than without Rook.

  • When playing Ranked, DON’T revive the attackers EVER, for ANY reason AT ALL. If you do that then you seriously should not be playing Doc, because it’s one of the most stupid ways to throw a match that I can think of.

  • If you’re going to be roaming as Doc (I recommend not doing this in Ranked since it’s a bit of a meme strat), the shotgun is a solid choice. Remember to use Alt to walk whenever close to the enemy, as it will make you nearly silent.

  • Remember that, unless you got downed and then grabbed an extra piece of Rook armor, you can only be downed once per round. If that’s happened, then don’t save your Stim shot until you’re downed, because it’ll go to waste.

As always, remind me if I missed something, and feel free to ask any questions you have.

Rainbow Six Siege Montagne Advanced Guide By: MeshesAreConfusing


I intend to make this an extensive and complete guide to playing Montagne successfully. This won’t be a “tips and tricks” post, so it’s probably gonna be quite long. Disclaimer: In order to have any success employing advanced Monty techniques, you need a permanent squad. This stuff requires a lot of mutual trust, and you simply can’t achieve that with randoms. (Edit: turns out this stuff is perfectly viable against low rank players, even if you’re solo). This is also entirely based on my personal experience – I’ve played against everyone from bronzes to diamonds using these tactics and they seem to consistently work well, but you’ll still find a lot of Monty mains that disagree with me. Regardless, I think he’s a really difficult operator to play correctly and this could give someone a hand.

First, adressing the misconceptions: Montagne is not cover. I cannot stress this enough: Do not use Monty as mobile cover outside of specific situations like covering a defuser plant. I know what you’re thinking: “But OP, his gadget was obviously designed so that he can cover his team while they advance”. Yes, I know. But doing that only benefits the defenders! The classic rookie mistake that Monties make is to fully extend and block a doorway while your teammate stands behind you and tries to shoot through the gaps. This is bad for two reasons: First, your shield only protects you from C4. The blast will still damage teammates normally, and often, defenders will throw it above your head, making it land at your teammates’ feet. Secondly, the defenders can do all sorts of fancy things like prefiring, throwing impacts, finding nice angles etc. Meanwhile, the guy behind you can only stand 1m away from you and try to get picks through the gaps between you and the walls – which is actually really difficult, because he can’t unload his weapon for fear of TKing you, and he does not have the element of surprise (everyone knows he’s behind you). Even IF it all works out well, you’re still wasting an operator slot on a stupid gimmick. So how should he be used?

Well, if you’re familiar with MMORPGs, you’re probably familiar with the role of the tank: Doesn’t deal much damage, but deals enough to be annoying, meaning he can’t be ignored. When enemies do try to kill the tank though, they have a really hard time, because he’s, well… Tanky. That is what Montagne is: With the post-nerf revolver he is no longer a killing machine, but his pistol lets him deal enough damage to be annoying while being very hard to kill. So that is what you are: A distraction. Your job is to make the enemy struggle with who to target – Shoot at your teammates and get slowly shot to death with a low-damage gun, or shoot at you, only to see you turn invincible, and then they promptly get headshotted by your teammates because they were distracted.

When you enter a room with your teammates behind you, you should go in first, telling them to watch the door instead of following you. Immediately divert the defenders’ attention away from the doorway by circling around them with your shield extended (obviously don’t do this if all 5 are in the room, I’m talking about 1-3 usually). One of two things will happen then: Either they will focus entirely on you, at which point you tell your squad to come in and shoot the defenders in the back (hopefully you told your squad where they were), or they will continue focusing on the door, at which point you can do many things: If they are alert you immediately retract the shield, shoot once or twice and extend again (this will force them to target you, netting your teammates easy kills), or, if they are really stupid and just ignore you, you can outright kill them with a shield bash or a point-blank hipfire unload. If you prefer the revolver, you will have to be very careful with your hipfires, since it’s more of an “aiming down sights” gun at the moment.

These moments aren’t always clear and easy to see, of course: Sometimes you’ll get an enemy’s attention only to have them immediately turn to face the door again as soon as you extend. You don’t always have to extend, of course: If you think you can survive by just crouching and hipfiring until your teammates get the guy, you can always remain crouched and firing, as a way of really holding that Jager’s attention, not to mention you can kill him more easily this way if he ignores you again. This is especially useful against roamers, because if you know there are 2 guys roaming above the bombsite, you can send Montagne in first (roamers don’t really expect an invincible attacker, so their brilliant positioning will often be for nothing and they’ll panic). Your job in these situations is to go in first, search the room, and then when the Bandit that was prone under the table inevitably gets up and starts trying to kill you, you shout at your squadmates to rush in and get him. If he turns around and starts shooting at them, kill him yourself. Here is a handy and very stupid illustration to show what I mean:

The first collumn shows what happens if you act as cover like a dumbass. The second one shows what happens if the defender ignores you because his past experience with Montagnes has taught him that you’re a harmless fridge door (you kill him). Finally, the third one shows what happens if he focuses on you (your teammate kills him).

Now, you may have found a flaw in my ideas: Monty is not invincible with the shield extended at all. Firstly, because C4 can be thrown over the shield, and secondly because he will often get stabbed through the shield by a stinky 3 speed operator.

The first problem is easy to take care of: Extend your shield and have it facing the C4 when it explodes. You will usually be able to dodge sideways (for instance, strafing to the right while facing the left with your shield). Try not to put yourself in a position where you need to turn around to protect yourself from the C4, because you’ll often get shot in the back (although surprisingly, the defenders usually forget they can shoot while detonating C4, so even then you may survive).

The second problem is a bit more complicated. As you see in the gif, nobody is really capable of stabbing you through your shield. What happens is that, in their screen, they actually went around you, but due to Ubisoft’s wonky netcode it seemed to you like they just pushed against you for a little bit and then stabbed you through the shield. This can even happen while you are fully extended because, even if you turn 90 degrees to your left, their client will only receive this info around a second later, even at low ping. This gives them more than enough time to stab you in the back, even though, on your screen, you were facing them. So how do you handle 3 speed hellspawn who insist on rushing you as soon as you extend, killing you while you’re unable to fight back? Quite simple, actually: You abuse their bloodlust. The notion that Montagnes are a free kill is ingrained into the mind of the Jager/Bandit player, meaning they will very often try to sprint around you when they see you with the shield extended. To counter this, simply unextend and kill them. You decide how! If they’re still a bit far away and cancel their sprint, you should immediately crouch and begin firing. Then, reassess the situation based on how they react: If they start strafing to the side, extend again. Remember the delay in shield turning? This means that by side strafing they can shoot you on the side of your head before you can turn to face them. Don’t be afraid of quickly toggling between extended and retracted mode, because as long as you have a good 2 meters between you and them, you still have enough time to retract and punch them. This is the ideal scenario in the situation I described above, by the way – If they do not cancel their sprint even after you retract, melee them before they melee you for a free kill. This is the one moment where the netcode actually works in your favour: Even if they’ve already meleed (thus pushing your shield aside) on their screen, what matters is what you see on yours. So punch away.

Don’t believe me when I say it’s simply a matter of punching first? Check out 0:30 on my documentary analysis of Montagne. (maybe watch the whole thing while you’re at it, even like the video perhaps?)

Don’t want to take my word for it, since I could just be a bronze posing as an experienced Monty? Fair enough. Check out this video by Macie Jay then, where he kills a lot of kill-hungry defenders by simply punching them first (he’s diamond rank).


The community favorite way to plant the defuser with Montagne is to have him extend the shield and block the enemy fire, while someone else plants behind him. This CAN work, in very specific situations:

• Their angles are limited enough that they can’t just sidestep you and shoot the planter

• They don’t have a Smoke or C4 operator nearby (don’t forget, your shield only blocks explosive damage for you, not your teammates).

• They can’t rush you and kill the planter

• They can’t jump out of a window and shoot both of you in the back (as often happens in the House garage plant).

As you can tell, these circumstances don’t happen often. One place you can do this is in Club house bar bombsite, on B site. Another would be on Border, upper floor bombsite, behind the shelf that Jagers like to climb up on. There are a few more, but in general, there is a better option: Montagne plants while his team covers him. Why is this viable?

Because Montagne puts his shield on his back while he plants. If you plant with your back to the enemy, it will block most bullets. Enough to make you survive if someone can clearly see you and shoot your feet? No, but that’s what your team and smokes are for. You see, if you make someone else plant while you block the bullets, you are delegating 2 people to the task of planting, leaving you with fewer guns pointed at the enemy. If Monty plants while his team watches him, that’s one extra gun that can kill defenders before they can find a way to harm him. If you combine this with smokes and a fast, sudden plant, you have a recipe for success

(just watch out for Smoke and Nitros, and remember that it’s not very wide while on your back, meaning you gotta line your self up really well).


IF WITH YOUR TEAM AGAINST MORE THAN ONE ENEMY: Stand or crouch somewhere they’re less likely to notice you and hipfire/bash them while they’re distracted by your team. Don’t aim down sights, because Monty becomes more useful the less time there is to defuse, so you gotta stay alive. Or, ideally, try to block the doorway they’re coming from,

but remember to stand still while doing so – if you keep moving side to side (ADADADADADAD) they will eventually teleport through your shield because Ubisoft.


If you planted on the very very very corneriest end of the corner, you may be able to block them from defusing simply by standing on it. If you can, good job! You’ve won. Just be careful with Nitros, since your shield doesn’t have very good upward protection from explosives, so you may need to step away from the corner and face it as it blows. If the defuser is somewhere else, extend, stand on a corner, and most importantly DON’T FALL FOR THE BAIT! They will do a fake defuse 100% of the time, and if you fall for it and try to ADS, they will kill you. What I’ve found that works consistently well is to remain extended, but go behind them and start walking closer. Usually, the knowledge that you’re behind them combined with the fact that they can’t see you means they immediately shit themselves stop defusing. Continue doing this until time runs out. If they call you on your bluff and don’t stop defusing, unextend, crouch and begin hipfiring. Don’t ever ADS unless you’re absolutely sure, because that’s a great way to throw a round. Remember, they’re expecting it!

IF ALONE AGAINST MULTIPLE OPPONENTS: Please refer to the “clutching” section below. The only difference between clutching with a defuser and without a defuser is that you can’t stray too far, so you may have to go full YOLO and start bashing faces. Clutching like this is doable against 2 opponents because one of them will defuse while the other attacks you, so you can deal with the closest one first and then move to the guy who’s defusing. Against 3 defenders… Yeah, no easy tactic there. Just pray that they’re stupid.


When clutching with Montagne, you have to rely on something very clear and easy to spot: Defender stupidity and greed. You know how they like to rush the attacker when there’s only one left? Well that effect is doubled tripled with Monty. When you’re the last one alive, your first priority should be to look out for rushing Jagers and Bandits. If they do rush you, wait by a doorway and bash them in the face.

If no doorway is available, do as I said in my first guide: Once you sense they’re about to rush you, unextend and punch them first. Simple as that.

But of course, you don’t always have the luxury of having braindead enemies who rush you one by one. When that doesn’t happen, try to position yourself in a way that’ll let you avoid crossfires – It’s impossible to survive if you got one enemy on either side of you, because all you can do is extend and retreat, and then they’ll box you in. So take the fight to them! They don’t expect a lone monty to be agressive, and you gotta use that to your advantage. Box them in, get close and bash their faces one by one, maybe even aim down sights if you’re good at that, but always avoid the crossfires and extend when faced with 2 enemies at the same time. Look at how, in this video, I alternate between extended retreating, door blocking to make them back off, and baiting them into melee bashes. You should keep an eye out for reloads as well, because they essentially reduce the number of targets you’re facing by one, making the situation more manageable. Also take note of how, at 0:13, I escape the corner by simply walking out of there. If you get trapped on a corner like that, you’re dead, so you’d think people would expect Monties to just walk out of the corner, but nope! They don’t! At 0:37 I also use the doorway to hide my pistol arm, which allows you to fire safely without fear of getting shot back, so do that too.

One thing to look out for, not just when clutching, but in general combat situations: There is a small delay in your shield turning speed. This is caused by a combination of Ubisoft’s shitty netcode and ping, and it basically means that you can be pointing your shield at someone on your screen, but on theirs, they’ll be shooting you on the side of the head. You need to look out for this when people get close and then take a step to the side, because it can result in a bullshit death (note the disparity between my view and the final second of the killcam). This is important when clutching because quickly switching between targets can often get you killed if you don’t take this into account.


You should seek to avoid as many crossfires as you can when entering bombsite or building. They are unavoidable in some maps, but in general, after enough playtime and with enough map knowledge you’ll begin to develop a sixth sense that warns you that certain rooms are bad for you. For instance, it’s not wise to enter a room through a door that’s on the middle of the wall – better to enter through a corner, so that you can immediately turn right/left upon entering and avoid getting shot in the back or unprotected sides. When entering bombistes, try to do so through doors, not windows, as those expose your body while you vault. When searching the other floors for roamers, try to find a route that minimizes your chances of getting shot in the back, always placing potential enemy positions in front of you, and whenever possible, skirt around the edges of the room with your back to the wall to minimize your chances of getting surprised.

In this video I try to demonstrate how you should drone out the locations you can’t possibly protect yourself from, and then hug the wall with your back when searching the rooms, to avoid nasty surprises. It’s actually an awful example because I made a lot of mistakes in this but shh ignore those


Get thatcher/twitch or find another entrance lol


A more basic description of this was in Pt1 of this guide, read that first to get an idea of how to deal with meleeing opponents. Still, there is more to be said.

Firstly, just to get this out of the way: Never ever extend at close range, unless you’re up against a corner. For reasons I already described in pt1, enemies can and will seem to stab you through your shield, and there’s nothing you can do to avoid this if you’re extended. What you can do, however, is unextend and try to melee them first. The basics are simple: If you hit them before they hit you, you win, no matter what they saw on their screen. Now onto more complicated concepts. If they hit you before you managed to hit them, your shield will be pushed aside (to the left)

and you will be unable to shoot or punch them. Immediately turn 90 degrees to the right, turning your exposed shield to them. This will block 99% of follow-up stabbings, and while it’s not as successful if they decide to shoot, it’s still better than doing nothing. Then, as soon as you regain the ability to attack, immediately melee them for an easy kill.

Ideally though, you’ll have bashed them before they stabbed you. In fact, that’s your best weapon – I probably have more melee kills than pistol kills. Rushing defenders are dumb and rarely expect this, making them easy to deal with. Your real problem comes when they keep their distance or there is more than one. In the latter situation, try to find an angle where you’re only exposed to one, or to line them up so that one blocks the other, then melee the one that’s closest to you. In the former situation, remember that you’ll always be a bitexposed while unextended, so try to find cover. Block your pistol arm with something like I mentioned earlier, stand behind a counter and use it to get closer to them without exposing your legs, or just go around a corner and bash/shoot them when they follow you.

Revelation Online Swordmage PvE guide! By: Asriel


I am by no means the most skilled, nor the most knowledgeable swordmage/player around, I am bound to have errors/flaws in this guide, and I would love some constructive suggestions!

Comment here or DM me on Discord: Asriel#8379

So, I’m writing up this guide mostly for myself, so I can link it to friends, but hopefully it may help out a few people here with whatever small knowledge I can impart.
This guide is about Swordmage for PvE, and I will cover most of the basics, as well as my own PvE build (which may be subject to change as I grow and improve).

List of other great guides, that taught me a lot:
Saintone: Videos and particularly his Crash Course video!
Starsky: All inclusive guide, great guide forlv69, still relevant!
Ravec: Old guide, has great sections on theorycrafting, damage calculations, etc.

Further reading:
Valunza: Damage analysis AKA why we use storm stance in PvE
RedGoku: Analysis of MDB vs Crit Increment

List of content:

  • 1. Basic attributes (Int, dex, vigor..)
  • 2. Advanced attributes (Crit, Demon Break, etc..)
  • 3. Basic skills
  • 4. Special Skills
  • 5. Soul Grid
  • 6. Tree of Wisdom
  • 7. Arcane Arts (skill cultivation)
  • 8. Damage rotation
  • 9. Gearing

Here goes:

  • 1. Basic Attributes:

Firstly it’s important to understand that most of our attributes (everything but Dexterity) gain significantly more from hitting increments of 10 (Remember to factor in white+green stats + consumables for this purpose).
This is because the 4 points of Zeal, Brawn, or Arcana we get is important multipliers to our hopefully already substantial numbers from our gear.
I have 2 sets of attributes:
Set 1: Glass cannon: I use this set for any fight where I will not be taking damage
Intelligence: Rest
Dexterity: 80-100 (increase if you’re a bit low on crit from your gear)

Set 2: Tanky I use this set for PvE fight that has high unavoidable damage
Intelligence: ~240
Dexterity: 80
Spirit: 40~
Vigor: 170~

  • 2. Advanced Attributes:

There’s a very long list of stats in this game, and I will go over the important ones for us here, as well as make suggestions.
I’ve listed them in descending order from the ingame interface, split into offensive/defensive stats.

  • 3.2: Offensive stats:
Hide Spoiler
Magic Damage: This is your basic damage stat, magic damage is calculated by taking your magic attack stats (from weapons, rings, exalts, etc) and multiplying it by your Zeal bonus, and adding any “Magic Damage” (not magic attack) stats at the end.
Suggestion: we will naturally want this to be high, to get this make sure to get decent white rolls on crafted rings/weapons, and try to get “magic attack” ather than just “magic damage” on your exalt rolls, as it will benefit from Zeal statZeal: Every 10 Int will net you 4 Zeal, and each 1 Zeal converts an additional 1% of your Magic Attack into Magic Damage (the stat skills actually benefit from). Zeal is found on certain items such as Talismans and Soul Grids. Some skills carries an extra amount of Zeal to them (Press Shift during Mouse-over to see each skills damage calculation)
Suggestion: Get as much of this stat as you can acquire without becoming too squishy to survive the encounter you’re facing.

Hit: Hit rating is the counter to the “Dodge” stat, we want 10% hit rating in order to never miss bosses.
Suggestion: Get 10% hit, but do not get it directly on any of your gear, we can reach 10% easily through Soul Grid, Venerations (earrings in particular can only roll Hit as offensive stat, rest is defensive) and guild/character cultivation.

Crit: This stat determines the chance to get a critical hit on an enemy of the same level, the damage of critical hits is modified by the Crit Increment stat.
Suggestion: Get at least around 50%, and preferably more. Critical strike increases the value of Crit Increment, which is a super important source of damage in PvE, also aim to get critical strike chance buff from guild buffs.

Crit Increment: This stat modifies the damage numbers of critical strikes. This stat is great because it requires relatively little Critical Increment rating to acquire 1% increment, therefore this stat has very high value on gear. Unfortunately it is capped at 200% (Resulting in a whopping 300% damage on critical strikes total)
Suggestion: Get as close to 200% as you can without overcapping, don’t forget to factor in consumables!

Magic Defense Break: This stat is the counter to the “Magic Defense” stat, and reduces that value by a percentage.
Suggestion: I have about 28% of this, but will downprioritize it in favor of Punishment, Demon Break, Crit Increment and Crit as I get more EC gear. The amount I have is mostly from the pieces I use for PvP as well as PvE until then.

Special Skill: This stat increases the damage output of your special skills.
Suggestion: unfortunately this stat can’t really compete with stats like crit/increment/punishment and has a lower priority – but it is not a waste to have some. Personally I have ~17%, but much like with MDB I will trade some for higher priority stats later.

Demon Break: This stat increases the damage you deal to enemies flagged as “Monsters” by the game, this includes all enemies in raids as well as the bosses.
Suggestion: This stat is very beneficial to our damage output, but we will get a great deal of it already from our Offensive PvE marks. In lategame we prefer Punishment stat over this, as usually the gear pieces (Eternal Chasm gear) will be able to roll both these stats as well as most other offensive stats.

Magic Damage Bonus: This stat acts as a multiplier to our “magic damage” number much like Zeal acts as a multiplier to our “magic attack” number.
Suggestion: I have 1.3% of this from the bonus of the lvl75 soul grid, and I am honestly not sure where else you’d acquire this. I think the berserking exalt for necklace/rings can give it too, but it will be significantly inferior to getting one of the crit increment or crit exalts.

Punishment: This stat gives a damage increase on monsters flagged by the game as “Bosses”.
Suggestion: Get as much of this as you can. It’s amazing.


  • 3.3: Defensive stats:
Hide Spoiler
Movement Speed: This stat increases our movement speed, it is measured in meters moved per minute.
suggestion: I recommend getting the “… of Swiftness” exalt on your boots if you can.Physical Defense: This stat reduces incoming physical damage. It is one of our more important defensive stats, as the vast majority of damage in PvE content is physical. (even when it doesn’t make sense, like the lightning strikes on 2nd boss in AoS)
Suggestion: Try to get this to around 70%+, good ways to increase it is through exalts like “.. of Gravitas”, physical defense type earrings, and gear with better physical armor rolls (white stats, fusion xp unlock increases, etc)

Brawn: This stat works as a multiplier on physical armor, before it’s converted to physical defense (the stat that actually reduces damage intake). Physical Armor, Physical Defense and Brawn has the same relationships as Magic Attack, Magic Damage and Zeal.
Suggestion: Much like you may have gleaned from the attribute section and the above stat, physical defense is important – this is why I invest so heavily into vigor. Brawn is a great way to increase your survivability, so get it where you can.

Magical Defense: This stat works just like Physical Defense, but for Magic Damage.
Arcana: This stat works just like Brawn, but for Magical Defense.
Suggestion: Our gears’ basic white stats will already have plenty of magical defense, you do not need to concern yourself with this stat in PvE. This is also why we have a low investment in Spirit, as all we’re getting is basically the 25 HP it provides, while vigor is 41 HP per point (with Celestial Aura cultivation)

Spell Resistance: This stat reduces incoming damage in PvE, and is mostly found on Defensive PvE mark and EC gear.
Suggestion: This is good source of survivability. You will get it naturally as you progress.

Physical Damage Reduction: This stat is a seperate reduction modifier to physical damage, it stacks multiplicatively with your Physical Defense value and other applicable reductions.
Suggestion: Get this on the 3rd venerations on your Helm/Gloves if you can (so far I haven’t been able to roll it on Armor/Legs, but it may be possible as well.) For boots we prefer combat stamina regen or movement speed.

Magical Damage Reduction: As above, but for Magic Damage.
Suggestion: I consider this pretty useless in PvE.

  • 3. Basic skills:

This section will contain an overview of our basic skills, how I have chosen to allocate my skill points, as well as a few thoughts of mine on them.

Here is a picture of my current skill layout:

Note: An argument could be made for increasing Cold Shackles over Lambent Step, and you can do as you please here. I prefer the Step levels for a bit more AoE potential on trash, and I have most of the Element-saving cultivations, as well as cooldown reduction on my primary abilities – so I rarely use Cold Shackles anyway.

They are listed in order of their Arcane Arts appearence for consistency.

Hide Spoiler
Lambent Bolt:
This skill is our primary Special Skill Power (SSP) generator, unique to this skill is that it does not trigger the global cooldown of our other skills. This means we can weave it into our damage rotation without hindering the use of our other skills. Every time you cast a skill that isn’t part of a combo, we use this skill immediately afterwards, before casting a new skill.
If done correctly it will simply generate massive Special Skillpower with minor inconvenience to the rest of our rotation. Remember to cast this while moving as well when possible.
While this skill may not be a massive part of our total damage output, it is very important to use because it unables us to cast Nimbus Reign and Elemental Fury on cooldown.

Angel Fire:
This is our primary “filler” skill. It does a significant portion of our damage, and generates 1 Element.

Cold Shackles:
This is the lowest priority of our damage skills, we use this as a filler when everything else is on cooldown and we have nothing better to do.
It is of higher priority to people that does not have Elements-saving cultivations, since they will need to rely on this as well to have enough.

Elemental Rhytm:
This skill should not be bound to a hotkey, instead drag out the individual Elements Stances from the Combat Skills interface shown above, and use them directly instead.
In general we will play in Storm stance for virtually everything. Switching to fire to drop a high burst Elemental Fury can be useful in clutch situations (such as Flower mechanic on Swamp Dragon, in EC).

Searing Wake:
Our most common “Elements spender”, it consumes 3-5 elements based on cultivation, and deals a fair amount of damage. Usually has roughly the same damage output as Angel Fire.
We will always try to pair this skill with our Star Sword ability (Star Sword -> Searing Wake) as we can (and will.) cultivate this to gain 33% more damage when the target is affected by Star Sword, and since both abilities have the same cooldown it is a natural pairing.
Notice however that it is not worth waiting for Star Sword to be ready before casting this, assuming you used Star Sword to increase damage output of your Elemental Fury.

Lightning Orb:
This is the signature spell of the Storm Stance, we will use this on cooldown and always activate it’s second stage.
With cultivation this skill will apply a Demon Break effect to our targets, further increasing our overall damage output, so try to cast your high hitting skills while the orb is active when possible. (i.e. this skill has a bit higher priority if you know you’re about to drop Elemental Fury etc)

Lambent Step:
This skill is only situationally useful. It can be used as an extra movement skill to quickly retreat from incoming fire, or to add more AoE damage when we’ve run out of more interesting buttons to press during mass pulls.
Note: The skills damage projectiles land right beneath where you were standing when using the skill – this means in order to maximize the damage of it we must be inside/beneath our target when using it. I see people too often wasting this, thinking it strikes in front of their previous position.

Frigid Aura:
Virtually useless, I use it right before Lambent Step if I’m in close proximity anyways, otherwise ignore this.

Celestial Aura:
Free stats! Yay!
This is our team buff, we use it before fights.

Cunning Step:
Our primary mobility skill, we use this to dodge dangerous situations, quickly go to where we need to be so we can start damage again, or save it to break CC (stuns, roots, etc..) if relevant.

Star Sword:
This is one of our top damage skills. It not only provides massive burst damage, but it also debuffs the target with a 10% damage taken increase – We will pair this with hard hitting skills like Elemental Fury, Nimbus Reign and Searing Wake whenever possible. I usually cast this right before
Searing Wake as SW lasts 5 seconds, which is the amount of time you have to detonate the Star Sword (if cultivated for it). Detonate it as late as possible to allow Searing Wake (or other skills) to benefit from it’s damage bonus for as long as possible – but without losing the damage of the detonation.

Celestial Aegis:
Our primary defensive cooldown. We use this to avoid deaths, dispel ourself as well as remove Enmity/Aggro in case we were a little trigger happy at the start of the fight


  • 4. Special Skills:

For the Dragon (left) side we want the following skills:
Nimbus Reign: For Daos we will take Resource Cost Reduction (1st priority) and then Damage (2nd priority)
Sword Salvo: For Daos we will take Resource Cost Reduction (1st priority) and then Damage (2nd priority)
Elemental Fury: For Daos we will take Resource Cost Reduction (1st priority) and then Damage (2nd priority)

The reason is that we can generally burn our special skill points faster than we can generate them (by using Sword Salvo to burn excess points)
Therefore we will want to optimize the amount of damage we get from each special skill point resource:
33% reduced cost = The amount of damage we deal per point spent increases by 33%
25% increased damage = 25% more dps on the given skill
33% reduced cooldown = 33% more dps on the given skill, but also 33% more cost – taking away from the points we could use on Sword Salvo. We also spend more time casting the skill, the opportunity cost here being throwing out an Angel Fire for instance instead.
More on the priority of each skill in the damage rotation section later on.

For the Phoenix (Right) side:
Starfall Blessing: For Daos I personally went with Cost Reduction (1st priority) and Cooldown Reduction (2nd priority), but an argument could be made for removing the cost reduction in favor of Point Generation (or the Shield on a fight like Mountain Dragon for example) – I just prefer getting it off as soon as possible in combat to give points to cast Elemental Fury fast, as well as benefit my team.
Void Banishment: For Daos we will use Magic Defense Break increase (1st priority) and Damage (2nd priority) note: you could use cost reduction here as well, but if you use dual generation lambent you will generate more Phoenix points than you can reasonably spend.
3rd is optional – I use ripple to increase trash aoe dps, but you won’t use either on a target dummy scenario, so make your own judgment here.

  • 5. Soul Grid:

The soul grid holds a lot of important bonuses for us, such as crit, hit, as well as the various bonus unlocks which provides tremendous value as well.
In particular we want to unlock Berserker II and Divine Way II.
I was influenceed a lot by the soul grid link in the discussion here by Starsky, however the link to the calculator no longer works – i just wanted to give credit.
So, how do we unlock the bonuses we want? Take a look at what soul crystals you have available and mix and match them to acquire as many of the bonuses you can. Remember every 2 levels a soul crystal rises it will gain another element, this means two lvl8 soul crystals can effectively replace 4 lvl4 crystals.

This is a an example soul grid unlocking the important bonuses for a swordmade:

Hide Spoiler
(don’t forget you can reach the same result with different crystals, for example if you have two lvl6 sky crystals you can replace one of them, letting you use 4 lvl4 Sun Crystals)

Eternity Crystals:

Sun Crystal VI x 1
Sun Crystal IV x 2
Time Crystal VI x 2
Sky Crystal IV x 3

Rebirth Crystals:
Birth Crystal IV x2
Death Crystal IV x1
Animus Crystal VI x1

Chaos Crystal:
Bright Chaos Crystal IV

Soul Grid Type:

Perfect Soulgrid would be having 2 of each Eternity Crystal and 1 of each Rebirth crystals level VIII+, This will activate the most bonuses on the soul grid.
To this end, keep levelling and consolidating your crystals – once you get lvl6 Sky Crystals it will free up a slot, and so on. When you have the opportunity to upgrade your soul grid, make sure to take it, as we will need an average of lvl7 of each soul crystal in the grid (except chaos) to fully activate the last Soul Grid panel. Personally I pushed for lvl8 Sun Crystals to free up another slot for Moon Crystal, and this also allowed me to keep my Sky Crystals at lvl6, since upgrading dodge was less important to me than getting Damage/HP.
Personally I still haven’t fully unlocked the Rebirth portion of the Soul Grid Panel item.

  • 6. Tree of Wisdom:

This is one of the areas where I must admit my knowledge (or Wisdom, if you will ^^), is a bit lacking. Please correct me, and/or make suggestions so we can all learn and grow!

The Tree of Wisdom allows us to turn Solar Dew obtained from our class reputation dailies into passive stats. As I understand it the higher your gear progression is the more of the Tree of Wisdom you can unlock – I was already +13 from my lvl69 days, so I did not experience this progression myself however.
Regardless, it is a slow process to unlock the tree of wisdom through your class reputation alone. Make sure to participate in your class areas boss events, and grab the chests at the end of it for a neat chance for some extra Solar Dew or just tradeable items you can turn into coins!
You can acquire 8000 Class Reputation weekly, and assuming you already purchased your Focus Scrolls and Soul Grids you can turn these into ~66 Solar Dew or 6600 Starlight (the resource we spend on the Tree of Wisdom), this will net you 1-3 Unlocks a week, depending on how far you progressed.
Furthermore, each time we fully unlock a tree, it will unlock a set of extra bonuses, as well as access to the next tree.
We will use the Tree of Wisdom to grab some nice passive stats, or to bridge any gaps in our gearing.

Noteworthy things to look for:
Demon Break
Crit / increment
Magic Defense Break

In order to get the most optimal pathing through the Tree of Wisdom, make sure to look at:’
What stats do I need? (Are you hitcapped? Low on crit? etc)
What is the shortest route to the bonuses I want?
How can I get the strongest filler stats on my path to the bonuses I want? (Physical defense > Magical defense, people!)
Sometimes the shortest path may not yield the best bonuses, either – thankfully we can freely reset and costumize the Tree of Wisdom as we please.

Here is a link to my current Tree(s?) of Wisdom(s?): (someone please teach me the plural of this xD)


  • 7. Arcane Arts:

I have learned a lot from Saintones videos, you can find them HERE as well as the particular video HERE
Furthermore I learned a lot from these guides: Starsky’s Guide and Ravec’s Guide

Though all the above guides are for lower level (except the newer Saintone videos!) they are mostly still relevant, and I highly recommend reading them. Getting more opinions and perspectives leads to greater understanding!

Note to self: Put a list of guides at the top of the first page.

This section I will go over my PvE build, and make some comments about my thoughts for each choice.
Please note that I have 83 cultivation points, so I might have less or more than some of you out there. I will try to rate the importance of the cultivations as I go through from, so you know what to prioritize if you are short on points. The same goes for cultivation book unlocks, where I have most of them, but also missing things like the infamous 9% PvE dmg Jade Book.

Please note that this list will only include the skills I have spent points cultivating. (I’m too lazy to crop images for the rest xD

Also, I would love to talk about each individual node here but it would be cluttered and messy. The character limit also would not allow for it in a single post – So please feel free to contact me ingame or on discord if you have any questions!

This is my current arcane arts layout: 

  • (mostly, I have assigned a few insignificant points since) 
Hide Spoiler

Lambent bolt notes:
This is our primary Special Skill Power generator, and we will cultivate it as such. If you have not yet unlocked your Starfall Blessing refrain from taking the dual-ssp generation points.
Priority: 5 stars.

Angel Fire notes:
Angel fire does significant damage, and has a low cooldown. As such it will do a fair amount of our total damage done, and should be cultivated for damage.
Priority: 4 stars for the first damage nodes, 2-3 stars for cooldown reduction – get this after more important things such as Star Sword, etc.

Elemental Rhytm notes:
These are passive bonuses that will improve our quality of life as well as damage output. Getting 10% more PvE damage for all our skills is a no-brainer, and so is increasing the skills magic damage bonus in storm stance by 40% (gives us 120 damage when it’s levelled to 20/20). The reason I have only a single point in the last node, is due to the fact that swordmages usually have multiple sources of fast-hitting abilities dealing damage every 0.5 seconds (or more often if multiple running). This means the internal cooldown is triggered almost immediately even with only 10% chance. The two points in the top is an additional 12% on top of the 40% from before, yielding a total of 156 damage bonus.
Priority: 5 stars for the Scroll 2 line cultivations, and 3 stars for the two points in the top.

Searing Wake notes:
This skill has some rather strong cultivation options, and is fairly weak without them. we take the increases to synergize with Star Sword as we will try to pair these in our rotation whenever possible. Reduced elements cost is a significant quality of life boost, but you can cast it on cooldown even without it. The reason we have only 2 points in the cooldown reduction instead of 3 is because Star Sword and Searing Wake both have 10 seconds cooldown, but Star Sword has a cast time – with 2 points it will sync perfectly. Just don’t forget to use Star Sword before Searing Wake – not the other way around.
Priority: 5 stars for the synergy nodes with star sword, 2-4 stars for cooldown reduction. Do NOT get the cooldown reduction here without having it on star sword as well, or it will be 100% wasted.

Lightning Orb notes:
This skill benefits tremendously from cultivation points, but consumes a lot of points compared to it’s damage output. However, try to get the Magic Defense Break effect as well as the increased duration of it early on, the rest of the points can wait till later. I highly recommend getting the element cost reduction as a quality of life thing, you can make the rotation work without by supplementing your elements more often with Cold Shackles instead.
Priority: 4 Stars on the MDB effect Duration increase, 3 Stars for Second Strike damage. I took the cooldown reduction a bit late personally, but it may have been worth grabbing sooner – I’m not sure, it’s not easy to calculate the benefit of increasing uptime on the defense break.

Celestial Aura notes:
I have opted to increase my defensive stats here, so I can afford to increase my int a bit more in my attributes. We place only two points in the magic defense as we should naturally land at around 80% without even trying – plenty enough for any PvE fight where it might actually apply.
It is not neccesary outside of Eternal Chasm, and if you truly want to optimize for each fight you can safely remove and redistribute these points when swapping to glass cannon build.
Notice that I haven’t taken points in the magic damage increase as it would require 5 points to get 20% magic damage increase on this skills passive 142 damage, which is a bad investment. (142 * 0.2 = 28.4 magic damage increase for 5 points), compared to the 2 point investment on Elemental Rhytms upper scrolls it’s 5,68dmg/point here vs 18dmg/point on EleRhytm. 
Priority: Untiered, this can situationally be truly important if you are barely getting oneshot and can avoid death by taking these, or conversely be entirely useless for some fights – make a judgment call here depending on how much you need survival.
(Also if you have access to the jade book for 9% PvE damage here, I think it is worth it to take for most people.)

Star Sword notes:
With this being our strongest non-special skill damage dealer, it is also important to heavily invest in this skill. It also has some of the strongest cultivation books and I highly recommend aiming to unlock the upper execution path ASAP. This skill becomes vastly more powerful through cultivation by getting 80% increased damage and a detonation for 70% of the initial hit on top of that.
Priority: 5+ Stars for the damage nodes, 2-4 stars for the cooldown reduction. Make sure to increase Searing Wake cooldown in tandem with Star Swords cooldown, so we don’t desynch our rotation and miss out on the increase to Searing Wakes damage.

Celestial Aegis notes:
This is our primary defensive skill. We don’t neccesarily need to cultivate this at all for the majority of the fights in the game, however I prefer to have the single point that allows us to cancel it at well so I can use it to avoid a mechanic, self dispel, or lose aggro and quickly get back into combat. The cooldown reduction is situationally very useful, such as 2nd boss in Tower of Pain where you can take both the first and third charge, and is downright a neccesity for Ice Queen in Eternal Chasm.
Priority: 1 star, you do not need this for the most part, but it is handy to have. I took the 1st point early on and found that I got annoyed when I played without. The cooldown reduction is only situationally useful, I took it after reaching 75 or so Cultivation Points.

Finally some honorable mentions:
Cunning Step: Both increased range and cooldown reduction might be worth looking into for some fights.
Cunning Step: The DA book for +15 Phoenix might let you get off your first Starfall Blessing (.. and thereby your first Elemental Fury) much faster, and allow you to swap from Resource Reduction to increased SSP generation on it’s Daos.
Celestial Aegis: The Phoenix generating node after the manual cancel node is worth considering for the same reason as above, once we have 90+ cultivation points and don’t know what else to use them on.


  • 8. Damage Rotation:

This section will contain my thoughts on the priority for each skill, some principles of how to use them and some examples.
Ideally I’d include some video examples as well, but I’m on phone data for Internet.

– Still working on this bit, please be patient!

  • Basics:
Hide Spoiler
Swordmages has a relatively fluid damage rotation, and we will often times have multiple spells ready at the same time. Therefore we must prioritize and choose the most effect option every time, in order to maximize our damage output. This can be tricky at first, as swordmage damage can seem complex until you get the hang of it, especially against mobile bosses where you must factor in when the boss will move and avoid wasting Nimbus/Fury/Searing/etc right before he moves away from it.
Swordmages are particularly strong against groups of enemies, stationary enemies and longer lasting fights.

For the purpose of this guide we will assume we are doing damage in a target-dummy scenario (Boss is being facetanked, and is stationary. There are little external factors forcing us to move). Once you get the hang of this it will make it much easier to adapt it to more advanced scenarios.

Furthermore I will assume that you have (or intend to) level up your special skills, as well as dao them in accordance with the Special Skills section above.


  • General principles:
Hide Spoiler
So in order to make things easier for us, we will use a few rule-of-thumb principles:

– Whenever we use Elemental Fury, we want to immediately (or within 5 seconds) also use Void Banishment. These skills share cooldown and should be used together because of the multiplying effect of Void Banishment benefitting the most when used with the hardest hitting skill we have. Make sure to drop the star sword on the Void Banishment as well, afterwards.

– We want to combo Star Sword -> Searing Wake, as searing wake benefits greatly from targets being affected by Star Sword debuff. Wait untill the last moment to detonate your Star Sword, to let the Searing Wake benefit as much as possible. Do not forget to actually detonate the sword.

– Lightning Orb gives magic defense break as well, when the situation allows for it try to use your damage while it’s up to benefit from it. We will generally use it on cooldown, but it can be beneficial to throw this before Nimbus for example, instead of vice versa.


  • Priority list:
Hide Spoiler
#1 Elemental Fury + Void Banishment
This is our top damage skill, we should use this as often as possible without wasting it to a moving boss or the like.
Note: With some forethought you can substitute Searing Wake with Elemental Fury in your rotation, to make it nice and fluid – Since they both consume your elements, this way you will avoid those awkward “My EF is ready, but I’m 4 elements short” moments.

#2 Nimbus Reign
This is our second highest damage skill, we should use this on cooldown and try to pair it with damage increases such as Lightning Orb, Star Sword and Void Banishment.

#3 Star Sword + Searing Wake
Star Sword is the third highest damage skill, and Searing Wake synergizes greatly with it – therefore we use these together. You should be able to stack enough elements to use Searing Wake on cooldown, even when spamming Nimbus Reign.
Make sure to cast Star Sword when it’s ready even if either the cooldown of Searing Wake isn’t ready or you don’t have enough elements.

#4 Searing Wake
In case we used Star Sword for bursting a pesky add, aoe damage, to boost Elemental Fury or whatnot, we use this without Star Sword. See above.

#5 Lightning Orb
While technically lower damage output than our Angel Fire on most fights, the debuff it gives is very significant to the damage of our other skills. Once you increase it’s duration (and decrease it’s cooldown) you will have a very nice uptime on the debuff. 

#6 Angel Fire
This is our primary “filler” skill, it will be the main generator of our Elements resource, as well as a very significant portion of our total damage output. It has a very low cooldown, so I personally try to use it right before other skills so I can use it again right after.

#7 Cold Shackles
We will only use this when everything else is on cooldown, or we’re moving and therefore cannot use channeled skills.

#untiered Lambent Bolt
Please refer to the basic skills section for an explanation on this skills use for now, I will switch the explanation around later I think.

#untiered Frigid Aura + Lambent Step
Casting these in quick succession is a nice way to generate some distance to your opponent(s) as well as a few Phoenix skill points. Good for dealing damage when you’ve run out of other AoE options on trash as well.

#untiered Starfall Blessing
We will use this immediately the first time it gets ready, and afterwards every time there’s a lull in our rotation – think of it like Cold Shackles but with higher priority.


  • Example damage rotation
Hide Spoiler
:: opener
Lightning Orb + Phase 2 (this will travel without engaging boss while we proceed with..) [Ignore this if you don’t have element conservation cultivations anywhere, and activate phase 2 of it after searing wake]
Star Sword + Searing Wake
(lambent bolt)
:: End opener
Angel Fire
(lambent bolt)
Cold Shackles
(lambent bolt)
-> if target is not dangerous to be near, can cunning step -> frigid aura -> lambent step here
(lambent bolt)
Angel Fire
(lambent bolt)
Nimbus Reign
(lambent bolt)
Lightning Orb + phase 2 (if your cultivation allows it element-wise, don’t delay SS+SW)
(lambent bolt)
Star Sword + Searing Wake

The idea is simply to make sure you get off the highest value spell available on your skill bar whenever you have an opportunity to cast.

Practice makes perfect (or closer to it xD) and striving to optimize on a target dummy a few times will also make it easier to do naturally eventually.

Rainbow Six Siege Best Barrel Attachments Guide (up to Para Bellum) By: Syrius-Wormwood


For the people that don’t know:

Compensator – reduces ONLY horizontal recoil. It does not reduce the vertical climb speed, but it reduces the variety between every shoot.
Flash Hider -reduces BOTH vertical and horizontal recoil. It’s like Jack of all trades, does everything, but it’s not best in anything.
Muzzle Brake – reduces ONLY vertical recoil and on top of that moves the aim back to X0Y0 (the point where you started shooting) faster than any other barrel.

So I have tested every single weapon in game with all the barrel attachments that change recoil. I have been working on this for the past 5 days and it was the most boring thing i have ever done. I will share with you what I think are the best barrels for every single weapon in the game, and I will give you a link to check them out yourself if you want to.

First things first. All the weapons were tested with vertical grip, when available. After I tried Silencers and Extended Barrels for some weapons and I concluded after a few hours of testing, that both of this barrels DO NO AFFECT RECOIL. So i tested only Muzzle Brake, Flash Hider and Compensator for all the weapons. All recoil patterns are from 14m distance. This is done for 2 reasons. 1. The white wall on Coastline is amazing for testing recoil and 2. This seems like an average distance in a siege gun-fights. Here is the link to the position i tested the recoils from.

On top of that i tested every weapon and barrel in T-Hunt.

BUG: MK17 (Blackbeard) has no vertical variation between shoots. You can check this in the images I’ll post below.

Method used: I started shooting from the same spot every time until the recoil was high enough and hit the wood, then i would stop and wait for the recoil to come down to the X0Y0 position (the spot i started shooting in the first place). And I continued to shoot until i ran out of bullets on each weapon. So let’s finally start with the recoil patterns.

Best barrel for every weapon:

Every pistol – Muzzle Brake

Every DMR (Twitch, Glaz, Buck, Blackbeard, Dokkaebi, Lion) – Muzzle Brake

6P41 (Fuze, Finka) – Flash Hider (no other barrel that improves recoil)

9x19VSN (Kapkan, Tachanka) – Compensator

416-C Carbine (Jager) – Compensator

552 Commando (IQ) – Compensator

556XI (Thermite) – Flash Hider

AK-12 (Fuze) – Muzzle Brake (this weapon has horrible recoil with any barrel, but the vertical climb is impossible to control with anything other than Muzzle Brake. On top of that since, it has horrible recoil you can tap fire much faster with Muzzle Brake.

ALDA 5.56 (Maestro) – Muzzle Brake (since this weapon has almost no horizontal recoil there is no point in using anything other than Muzzle Brake)

AR33 (Thatcher) – Flash Hider (too much muzzle climb for compensator)

AUG A2 (IQ) – Compensator (for some reason not only is it better for horizontal recoil, but it’s better for vertical recoil too)

BEARING 9 (Hibana) – Compensator

C7E (Jackal) – Compensator (sooooo much better than the other 2)

C8-SFW (Buck) – Flash Hider

F2 (Twitch) – Muzzle Brake (the horizontal recoil is too small to worry about it, so there is no need for Flash Hider or Compensator)

FMG-9 (Somoke) – Flash Hider

G8A1 (IQ) – Compensator

G36C (Ash) – Compensator

K1A (Vigil) – Compensator

L85A2 (Sledge, Thatcher) – Flash Hider

LMG-E (Zofia) – Muzzle Brake

M12 (Caveira) – Flash Hider

M249 (Capitao) – Compensator

M762 (Zofia) – Compensator (it’s mind blowing how good this is compared to Muzzle Brake and Flash Hider)

MK17 CQB (Blackbeard) – Muzzle Brake

MP5 (Doc, Rook) – Flash Hider

MP5K (Mute) – Compensator

MP7 (Bandit) – Compensator

MPX (Valkyrie) – Compensator

Mx4 Storm (Alibi) – Compensator

PARA-308 (Caipitao) – Muzzle Brake (no horizontal recoil, so there is no need for anything else)

PDW9 (Jackal) – Compensator

R4-C (Ash) – Flash Hider (both the Flash Hider and Compensator work very good, however, it much easier to get head shots with flash hider since the distance from the first to second bullet it’s much smaller)

Scorpion Evo 3 A1 (Ela) – Compensator (Compensator it’s the only one that “works”. As in, it is only horrible, while the Flash Hider and Muzzle Break are an abomination)

SMG-11 (Smoke) – Compensator (it should be illegal to use anything else on SMG-11 since it’s light years better then all of the other barrels combined)

SPEAR .308 (Finka) – Muzzle Brake (same as Twitch and Capitao)

T-5 SMG (Lesion) – Flash Hider (the gap between the first bullet and the second is waaaaaaay to big to use Compensator)

T95-LSW (Ying) – Compensator

TYPE-89 (Hibana) – Compensator (off topic: somehow Muzzle Brake works 100x better than Flash Hider on this gun, but they are both inferior to the Compensator)

UMP45 (Castle, Pulse) – Compensator (this weapon as almost no vertical recoil, so there is no point in using anything other than Compensator)

V308 (Lion) – Muzzle Brake (same as Twitch, Finka, Capitao)

Vector .45 ACP (Mira) – Compensator


Shooting Location
Blackbeard Bug
6P41 – Flash Hider

Guild Wars 2 Thief Might and Mobility Build Guide By: PriestessLara


This is a full build I’ve put together after the second BWE with gear.

Skills and traits:


The skills and traits focus a lot on mobility and getting buffed from this. The build is designed to do a lot of condition damage, but also dodge a lot for survivability, and buff up with might stacks to do respectable direct damage. Here are the skills and traits summarized.

Withdraw = every 15 seconds heals, gives back 4 initiative, removes immobilizing conditions, and increases stamina regen by 100% for 10 seconds.
Shadowstep = mobility and condition removal
Venoms = gain might and apply various conditions.

Trait lines:
Deadly arts = buff poisons to give might, power, and condition duration
Acrobatics = buff dodging to give might, vitality, and boon duration
Trickery = buff condition damage and give initiative regen


Weapons are dagger/dagger and pistol/dagger. Both sets have effective direct damage and bleed attacks to take advantage of the +power and +condition damage.

Weapon sigils:

Sigils of superior battle and energy on each weapon set. (On weapon swap, gain 3 stacks of might, and 50% endurance).

Amulet: Carrion amulet with carrion jewel (condition damage, power, and vitality): http://wiki.guildwars2.com/wiki/Amulet http://wiki.guildwars2.com/wiki/Jewel

Armour runes: Rune of strength, which buffs might. http://wiki.guildwars2.com/wiki/Rune_of_Strength Since we’re using might a lot, this helps keep it going.

Stats from traits and gear: (probably missing some gear, since these numbers seem low – this is just with traits, amulet, and armour runes, but it gives you a good idea of the basic stat breakdown)

Power = 1009
Condition damage = 1223
Vitality = 884
Boon duration = +20%
Condition duration = +20%
Might duration +20%
Steal recharge reduction = 30%
Bonus damage from might = +5%
Other bonus damage = +2% per initiative.

Playing this, want to dodge and weapon swap a lot to keep might going. With all the dodging possible and venoms, should maintain quite high might stacks. With power and condition damage being the main stats, can use a range of attacks effectively.

Direct attacks will probably hit harder than condition damage, since have all the +damage and +might, but condition damage won’t be useless.

For PvE gear, it’s best to just keep crafting going. By taking weaponsmith, you’ll always be able to keep your daggers good – crafting three daggers and finding one pistol is easier than the other way around. And with leatherworking you can craft armour.

Guild Wars 2 Ranger Pet Commands Guide By: misterdevious


Part 1: The Basics

Active Mode “Guard” (Default Mode): Your pet will attack targets that attack it or attack you.It will periodically switch to attack enemies you hit.

Passive Mode “Avoid Combat”: Your pet will follow you and not use any skills for any reason unless you order it to do so or you order it to attack.

F1 Attack My Target
F2 Use Species Specific Skill
F3 Return to Me
F4 Swap Pets
K Pet Management (or click on the Pet’s Icon)

Behavior Mode Toggle (key unknown) Set pet to Active (Guard) or Passive (Avoid Combat) mode.

Stow (key unknown)Outside of combat this button will put away your pet, but it will automatically come back out during combat.

Downed ControlsAll of the pet commands currently work while downed, despite not being visible.

Part 2: Using the Basics

Active Mode is effortless, but gives you less control over what your pet does and who it does it to.
Passive Mode takes more effort, but gives you good control over who/when/where/how your pet attacks.

Target + F1 This tells the pet to chase and attack your current target.
Target + F2 This tells the pet to use its F2 skill as its next skill, then chase and attack your target.

Note:Previously it appeared that passive mode created a more reliable lock-on, but that may no longer be the case.When told to attack a target, the pet will chase it until it gets too far away from the ranger, the enemy gets too far away from the pet, it dies, the enemy dies, the ranger dies, or the enemy stealths.Chase range is quite large.

No Target + F2 Your pet will use its F2 skill.If it is in the middle of a skill, it will use it after the current skill finishes.Useful for F2 buffing skills.

F3 or Changing to Passive at normal range Your pet will stop attacking and come to you.
F3 or Changing to Passive at extreme range Your pet will stop attacking and teleport to you.

F3 in its current state will stop your pet from attacking by itself, even if it is on guard and it is being killed.I’ve heard that this behavior may reset after your target dies, but I never saw it.Maybe it ends when combat ends.Cycling behaviors did not get the pet to start attacking on its own again.To get it to attack, I had to hit F1 or F2.Basically… if you hit F3 now, you put your pet in passive mode (even if it says it is in guard mode) and you can’t change it.

Pet Swapping swaps to your other pet, with full health and all skills recharged.
Pet Swapping with a dead pet results in a very long swap cooldown.
Pet Swapping in combat with a live pet results in a moderate swap cooldown.
Pet Swapping outside of combat with a live pet results in a very short swap cooldown.

Stow is useful for jumping puzzles and taking screenshots without your pet in the way.

Pet Management lets you choose which two pets you will use on land, and which two in water.This is also where you name your pets.Click on the quill thingy near the top.

Part 3: How Pets Decide Which Skill to Use

Pets use one of their viable skills at random when they attempt to attack.Skills are viable if they are not on cooldown, the target is within the range of the skill (ranges available at the wiki), and any requirement is met.Requirements such as:

Harmonic Cry requires the Moa to be injured, even slightly.
Defy Pain appears to require the Bear to be below 20% health (number might be slightly higher or lower than that).
Brutal Charge (Canine) may require the pet to be injured.There appears to be some requirement.

Ranged pets will park themselves at range to use ranged attacks, preventing them from using melee skills until a viable target gets into melee range.

In melee range, pets are at their most random because they can use either melee or range attacks (if they have both).If there is a preferential order that they use their skills when all are available, or if there are many hidden requirements dictating which skills to use, then I haven’t figured those out yet.At this point I’m calling it random.

Part 4: Getting Your Pet to Use the Skill You Want

Using F2 will force your pet’s next skill to be its Species Skill, even if it is not in a good place for it. Some pets now require careful positioning/timing to get their F2 skills to hit.

Specific automatic skills can be used on demand by ordering the pet to attack at a range where it only has one viable skill.Examples include: Quickening Screech, Harmonic Cry, Brutal Charge (Porcine), Fear (Shark)

Getting a ranged pet to use its melee skills more often requires getting opponents into melee range of that pet more often.There are a few ways to do this.Drag the passive pet into melee range and hit F1.Lure the opponent to your ranged pet.Swap to that pet while in melee range.Switch to passive mode to pull your pet into range of your melee target.Devourer’s Tail Lash skill is the prime example of this technique.

Part 5: Shouting Helps

Sick ‘Em”Your pet runs faster and does about 25% more damage for 15 seconds.This skill requires an enemy target.Range is 3000.

“Protect Me”Damage you take is transferred to your pet for 6 seconds.Your pet won’t attack during that time.Using Signet of Stone on your pet will not prevent it from suffering transferred damage.

“Search and Rescue” Your pet will go to a downed/defeated ally nearby and slowly revive them.Sometimes it works well and your pet will run to an ally, and other times it will just sit there and ignore an ally very close by.Hopefully it will become more reliable.

“Guard”Your pet will travel to the spot you designate, wait there, and attack enemies that enter an area around it even if it is set on passive mode.This also grants 7 seconds of Stealth and 10 seconds of Protection to your pet (can be improved with boon duration).If all enemies leave the area, the pet will abandon the chase and return to its guard spot.This skill allows your pet to take a shortcut to the targetted area, even floating up walls to get there.If you travel beyond a certain distance, roughly half the length of Battle of Khylo, the pet will abandon its guard spot.

Using any pet command (F1-F4) or a second Shout will cancel any current Shout behavior and its benefits (though it will keep Stealth and Protection from “Guard”).
Using a Shout with a dead pet can work (but this is probably not intended.)

There is no icon on you or your pet to show that it is benefitting from a shout.

Part 6: Stupid Pet Tricks

Birdspeed F1+F3 (or F1+Behavior Cycling) Tell your bird to attack a ranged opponent, causing it to use Quickening Screech, then cancel the attack.10s of Swiftness every 20s is nice.Range should be between 130 and 1200.

Pocket MoaKeep a Moa on passive near you at the start of a fight.After it gets injured, it is ready to use.Order it to attack a target between range 130 and 1500 to force it to stop where it is and do a Harmonic Cry (immobile pulsing Heal over 3 seconds that heals 1340 per second, 1398 with Compassion Training).A 4k AoE heal on-demand, where you want, when you want.

Bear Traps F1+F1+F1+F1+F1+F3Order a tanky pet to attack multiple NPC’s at range, wait until they are clustered up nicely aroud him, and then order him to run straight towards you, directly over a pile of traps and/or AOE barrage you have waiting.A PvE tactic.

Bear Baiting F1+F1+F1+F1+F1+F4 Order a tanky pet to attack multiple NPC’s at range, and then order him to attack the thing you want to kill.Then swap pets leaving you and your new pet at a safe distance from the chaos you caused.Your victim is now surrounded by NPCs.If they are naturally hostile, then proximity will get them to aggro on your target.If they are naturally neutral, then you may need to call your pet straight back from your target to you to encourage your opponent to hit them and aggro them on himself.A WvW tactic.

Three-Tailed Devourer Once your ranged pet has decided where to set up shop to fire ranged projectiles, you position yourself behind it. You can shoot through your pet, but your opponent can’t (and your Devourer has 3k Toughness.)When the opponent reaches your pet, it will either retreat (meaning you should move) or do a knockback (moving your opponent).You may have to repeatedly reposition yourself and your pet during combat against some enemies.

Running Interference F1+F3+F1+F3… By sending a tanky melee pet in and pulling it back out repeatedly, you are attempting to keep the pet between yourself and your target to absorb some projectiles shot at you.Won’t work if there is not a straight line path to your target.

Guild Wars 2 Thief Pistol/Dagger, Dagger/Dagger Swap Build Guide By: PriestessLara


I just wanted to use this picture.

But that basically describes this thief build I’ve put together. This build’s a bit different to many you’ll find because it employs constant active weapon swapping – once every ten seconds ideally.

The build in detail is at this link: http://www.gw2tools.com/skills#t;Naf…eca;Ybbb;bhTcY

The rest of this post explains it.

Weapon choices

I prefer to use two very similar weapon choices – pistol dagger and dagger dagger. The reason for this is that whenever I tried two very different weapons (like dagger dagger and pistol pistol) I could never get skills or traits that worked well for both weapons. So I decided to forgo versatility in favor of being more focused.

P/D is an excellent hit and run set, while D/D is outright damage. Use P/D alone and your initial burst attack is very high with good survivability, but you run out of steam and have to resort to kiting. Use D/D alone and you have to stand toe-to-toe with little option to get out of combat.

By combining the two you can get the high initial burst damage and survivability of P/D and save the glass cannon D/D to finish something off.

Slot skills

The slot skills of this build are:

Withdraw – once every 15 seconds, roll backwards to evade, lose cripple, immobilize, and slow, and regain health.

Roll for initiative – once every 60 seconds, roll backwards to evade, lose the above conditions, and regain 6 initiative.

Scorpion wire – once every 30 seconds, pull a target towards you. Scorpion wire also has the hidden benefits of it doesn’t aggro anything around the target mob, and it knocks down both players and mobs when it pulls.

Devourer venom – once every 45 seconds, immobilize your target.

Basilisk venom – once every 45 seconds, petrify your target.


Trait lines are:

Deadly arts – 25 points. Trait choices are quick venoms (venom cooldowns reduced 20%) and residual venom (venoms last an additional strike). These traits will reduce the cooldown of both venoms to 36 seconds, and let you extend the immobilization and petrification effects by applying them twice.

Shadow arts – 10 points. Trait choice is venomous aura. This lets your surrounding allies use your immobilization and petrification venoms when you activate them. This is fairly deadly in a group fight.

Acrobatics – 10 points. Trait choice is quick pockets (gives two initiative on weapon swap). Since you’ll be swapping between weapons often, this is a good bit of burst initiative regen.

Trickery – 25 points. Trait choices are trickster (tricks get 20% reduced cooldown), and hastened replenishment (gain initiative whenever using a heal skill). These traits lower the cooldown of your roll for initiative and scorpion wire skills, and also give you 2 initiative back whenever you use withdraw.

Basic play

In almost all situations (fighting a PvE group, solo PvE, PvP, whatever), your opening attack should be scorpion wire from a pistol/dagger where possible. This is why you want the trickster trait, so you can throw around wires all the time.

After using the wire, the target will be knocked down in front of you, so it’s a good chance to hit them with cloak and dagger (number 5). After you go into stealth, use your pistol sneak attack (press your number 1 skill), and then hit shadow strike (number 3). You’ll end up at about range 600 away from the target.

What you do now will really depend on what you’re fighting. Equal-level mobs will be dead, and even higher level mobs will have taken a beating. In that case it might be preferable to just kite with a pistol or throw a dagger or two.

If fighting a tough opponent, at this stage you should hit a venom to immobilise or petrify with a pistol shot. Once they’re locked in place, you can swap weapons (gain 2 initiative) and steal towards them (gain 3 initiative). Your next attacks will still have the poisons on them, so by taking residual venom you get yourself a bit of breathing room while they can’t do anything to poison them again.

Now with daggers and them locked down, you can focus on finishing them off. Leaping death blossom (number 3) will hit really hard with all the +condition damage and duration you have, so that’s the recommended attack. The death blossom bleed will take some time to work, so you can withdraw if they start hitting back and fling daggers around as well.

Alternatively, if they’re under 33% health, Heartseeker (number 2) will hit very hard at this point.

Group support

In groups you have three main things you can do.

1. Venomous aura gives your immobilization and petrification venoms to everyone.

2. Dancing daggers deal a large whack of area damage (hit three targets for about twice as much as an auto attack), and cripple as well. With ample use of withdraw and weapon swap whenever up to gain initative, you can keep daggers going a long time. Each weapon set has the dancing daggers skill, so dagger spam benefits from this swapping.

3. Use scorpion wire to pull things off people before assassinating them. This is your version of healing, basically.


Focus on three stats.

1. Condition damage (makes your bleeds hit harder).
2. Power (makes your direct attacks hit harder).
3. Vitality (makes you harder to kill).


Since you need a lot of daggers, I’d recommend weaponsmithing as one craft. Leatherworking is best for the other, as it lets you craft runes to put in all your armor (cheaply) as you level up.

Starting out in PvE

If you’re just making a thief, start by taking scorpion wire with your first two skill points, then withdraw with your next. Once you start getting traits, put them in trickery to get trickster to reduce the cooldown of scorpion wire, and buff up your condition damage.

And that’s it.

Guild Wars 2 Warrior Lazy Build Guide By: CheeseThief


Hi everyone

I have been thinking about playing a thief in GW2. But the builds which I have already seen do not quite support the way I play a thief. This is the main reason why I have tried to create my own build. Unfortunately I am missing some information because I haven’t had the opportunity to take part in a BWE yet (have ordered the pre-purchase pack today…). This is the reason why I hope you can help me finish my build or improve it.

This is my build so far:


This is my idea about how to play it:

General Idea
I prefeer to do a lot of damage without having to wait (conditions). So I need a lot of critical damage and damage bonuses and have to hit as many times as possible (no misses).

Starting the Combat
S/D is my starting Set. When I have spotted a suitable enemy I can throw some daggers to do some damage and/or activate either Devourer Venom or Basilisk Venom (Both will gain +1 Strike because of trait). I enter combat with Infiltrator’s Strike to get in front of my enemy, who by now should not be able to move anymore (Devourer Venom should last 9 seconds). Alternatively I can pull the enemy right in front of me with using Scorpion Wire.

Stealth and Flanking
I use Flanking Strike to get behind him and Cloak and Dagger to get stealth. Now I have all my bonus damage indicators activated (Flanking, Stealth and a lot of Critical Rate + Damage) and I am in a very good position to deal a lot of damage.
I can now use one stealth attack with +50% crit. chance becuase of stealth and some extra because of flanking. To do this I now switch to D/D to be able to cast my Dual Skill (Leaping Death Blossom) which has increased Crit Chance and does more damage or Backstap which does more damage from behind. Whenever I loose Stealth I can trigger Hide in Shadows and use antoher attack which now depends on how much health my enemy still has. Maybe Heartseeker would be a good choice right now.

Well this is how this Build should be played.

Now I have still 10 points left which I can not decide on how to spend them. Here some possibilities:

– 10 Points into Shadow Arts to either get Venomous Aura or Patience.
– 10 Points into Acrobatics to either get Combined Tactics, Quick Pockets or Quick Recovery.

I think this build needs a lot of Initiative which is why I need something to get it back…

What do you think of my build and how would you spend the last 10 points? What would you change to improve this build?

I am curious to see what you would do with my build.





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