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Magic The Gathering Arena Green White Selesnya Standard Decks By: bokchoykn


Selesnya is my favorite guild. I love ramping my mana. I love the synergy between token generators + anthem effects. I love midrange and archetypes centered around synergy and value. As you can imagine, my eyes lit up during GRN spoiler season and seeing what Selesnya had to offer.

The current Standard format so far has shown us a wide variety of ways to build Selesnya. Obviously, there are many overlapping similarities and recurring themes among these lists, but they are different enough that when you play a tapped Temple Garden on turn 1, your opponent still doesn’t know what to expect.

Here’s a post featuring the many different ways to build Selesnya.

Which one(s) are you currently piloting? What are your experiences with playing Selesnya in the current format? Any new tech you’d like to share?


Selesnya Tokens

Sample List

A classic, well-known, tried-and-true strategy that has worked in Standard seasons past. The premise of the deck is to simply go wide with token generators like Saproling Migration, March of the Multitudes, and History of Benalia. Then grow the tokens via Trostani, Shalai, or Venerated Loxodon.

This strategy can overwhelm opponents with more creatures they can block, renders single-target removal ineffective, packs enough punch to pressure control decks while providing blockers and life gain to stifle aggro decks.

The deck is naturally soft to board sweepers, like Deafening Clarion or Ritual of Soot.

There are a few different variations of the list. Some include Benalish Marshal for an extra anthem effect. Others include Hunted Witness and Adanto Vanguard for more resilience to sweepers.

Selesnya Aggro

Sample List

A simpler, more streamlined version of Selesnya. The deck invests less into a go-wide tokens strategy and more into aggressive and resilient attackers like Adanto Vanguard, Thorn Lieutenant, and History of Benalia.

Some parts of the token strategy still remain, with Trostani and sometimes March of the Multitudes, but the deck typically sticks to threats that are good on their own.

Because the deck is less reliant on synergy, it has a lot of flexibility in the decklists. Some use Planeswalkers like Ajani, to beef up their army. Others instead use The Immortal Sun as an all-purpose late game power card.

The lack of powerful synergies weaken the deck in the mid and late game, but is also less vulnerable to cards that can disrupt and break apart these synergies.

Selesnya Angels

Sample List

A Selesnya take on a commonly Boros strategy. This deck employs a mixture of aggressive ground beaters in the early game, an armada of midrange flying Angels all bolstered by Lyra Dawnbringer, backed up by Planeswalkers.

The deck attacks from several different angles. Early threats like Adanto Vanguard and History of Benalia are particularly effective against control decks. The big bodies and lifegain on the angels crushes aggro. Tocatli Honor Guard shuts off the plethora of ETB triggers from the ubiquitous Golgari midrange decks.

Compared to the Boros version, Selesyna Angels loses out on Aurelia, red’s removal spells, and Deafening Clarion . However, it gains the pump ability on Shalai and one of the strongest Planeswalkers in the meta, Vivien Reid, and a few strong sideboard options like Carnage Tyrant.

Selesnya Wings

Sample List

This is a more unorthodox approach that has been picking up steam lately. This deck features hard-to-remove creatures like Adanto Vanguard, Vine Mare, and Carnage Tyrant, and threatens to enchant one with On Serra’s Wings and run away with the game.

The deck is naturally mana hungry, using Llanowar Elves and Druid of the Cowl to propel itself into the mid-game where it can enact its strategy. Planeswalkers like Karn and Vivien Reid gives the deck more late-game power and value. The deck can also go wide with March of the Multitudes, combined with Flourish.

The deck is capable of going over the top of other midrange decks. However, with the growing popularity of Carnage Tyrant, control players are responding with more ways to answer Hexproof creatures.

Selesnya Explore

Sample List

A different version of the tokens deck, combining the tokens strategy with a heavy investment into the Explore mechanic. The package of Merfolk Branchwalker, Jadelight Ranger, and Wildgrowth Walker give the deck consistency, value, and lifegain. Path of Discovery takes that to a whole new level, often pumping Wildgrowth Walker into double-digit power/toughness.

Token generators like Trostani, March of the Multitudes, and Memorial to Glory give multiple Explore triggers at once, growing the tokens while allowing you to dig through your deck. The Immortal Sun further grows your army while shutting down opposing Planeswalkers, and drawing you extra cards.

Because the deck relies on multiple layers of synergy, it often results in awkward opening draws. Also, with the huge target on Golgari Midrange’s back, this deck does suffer from splash damage from white decks packing Tocatli Honor Guard to combat the popular Golgari deck.

Magic The Gathering Arena Mono Blue Tempo Playing Versus Aggro Guide By: jrk264


My overview of the Mono Blue Tempo deck seemed to be well received (thanks for the kind words!), so I thought it would be worth doing another post or two drilling into some of the nuances of playing the deck. One thing that a few people asked about was how to beat it. There is a simple answer: pick up an aggressive deck. However, this advice comes with a caveat. Mono Blue Tempo matches up poorly against some aggro decks and well against others. The interesting part is that, in my experience, it matches up better against the better aggro decks while it struggles with the more fringe aggro decks.

I’ll walk through a deck list that I find usually beats me when I’m piloting mono blue. I’ll then walk through a deck list that I usually handle pretty well. I’ll try and explain the difference in results. Finally, I’ll walk through a play by play from a competitive league game on MTGO that I think exemplifies how it looks when Mono Blue Tempo is taking care of business against an aggro deck.

The Bad

Two very similar lists have posted 5-0 competitive league results playing Gird for Battle. I’ll focus on the most recent: https://www.mtggoldfish.com/deck/1448981#paper

3 Legion’s Landing
4 Duskborne Skymarcher
4 Healer’s Hawk
4 Rustwing Falcon
4 Skymarcher Aspirant
4 Adanto Vanguard
4 Remorseful Cleric
4 Benalish Marshal
4 Venerated Loxodon

4 Gird for Battle
3 Pride of Conquerors

18 Plains

I have literally never won a game against this deck when it curves out. It can throw up some hands that I think mono blue couldn’t beat even if our opponent allowed us to stack our deck. One drop -> double one drop -> Vanguard + one drop + Loxodon -> Benalish Marshal… they can send a ludicrous amount of power and toughness into the red zone on turn four.

The only way we have to interact with them in the first couple turns is by blocking or perhaps trickstering something. Even if you’re running main deck Essence Scatter, are you really going to pass the turn without casting anything in the face of three one drops? If you have the Scatter and make the read to counter the Loxodon, their board presence is still substantial.

Blocking is made difficult by their alternate line of play of one drop -> one drop + gird for battle. Mono blue can’t do anything but chump block a Girded Rustwing Falcon until it gets up to a Tempest Djinn. Just getting a Girded Healer’s Hawk or Duskborne Skymarcher off the table requires trading with a two drop. And if you tap out on turn two intending to offer that trade then you’re just asking to get blown out by Benalish Marshal hitting the table on turn three. Or a second Gird for Battle giving you flashbacks to Travel Preparations. Chump blocking a Rustwing Falcon with your Tempest Djinn is a bad feeling.

This deck pounces on the vulnerability created by the fact that Mono Blue really wants to spend the first two turns developing its board without worrying about what the opponent is doing. It creates a board state almost immediately that forces the Mono Blue deck to tap out in order to stabilize. This basically blanks the Mono Blue countermagic for the first three or four turns of the game.

Why isn’t this 18 plains deck taking over standard? Two reasons: (1) consistency; (2) other matchups. The deck is running 18 plains and 19 one drops. It’s not always going to bring things together in the right ratios. Usually when I’ve gotten game wins against this deck it’s when they got stuck on one land or they hit their first five land drops. Also, the deck is somewhat vulnerable to spot removal and extremely vulnerable to sweepers. Deafening Clarion will routinely be a three for one (or worse), as will Ritual of Soot. It’s hard to outrace a three or four mana sweeper that kills all of your guys.

In the latest 5-0 deck release, the White Weenie representative has dropped the Gird for Battle and gone up to 19 plains: https://www.mtggoldfish.com/deck/1454707#paper

The natural evolution of aggro decks is to get slightly bigger over time, as exemplified in the next deck. This is exactly what a Mono Blue pilot likes to see.

The Good

The Boros Weenie deck that 8-0’ed the MOCS has been popping up a lot in the competitive leagues lately. It is still very aggressive, but it’s undeniably more consistent and balanced than the all in deck discussed above: https://www.mtggoldfish.com/deck/1444555#paper

3 Legion’s Landing
4 Dauntless Bodyguard
3 Healer’s Hawk
4 Skymarcher Aspirant
4 Adanto Vanguard
4 Knight of Grace
4 Benalish Marshal
4 History of Benalia

4 Heroic Reinforcements
3 Conclave Tribunal

4 Clifftop Retreat
1 Mountain
14 Plains
4 Sacred Foundry

Where the other deck was looking to curve 1 into 1 + 1 into 1 + 2 or 1 + 1 + 1, this deck is content to curve 1 into 2 into 3. It features more individually powerful cards and it even has a little bit of interaction. This deck will not lose to itself nearly as often as the 18 plains deck will. It holds up better after a Deafening Clarion. It also has a much harder time running Mono Blue Tempo out of the building.

I believe the key difference is that Mono Blue Tempo is much more comfortable facing one spell per turn than two. Even if that one spell is better than the two spells. Mono Blue Tempo actively wants to deal with threats one card at a time. It doesn’t really have the capacity to deal with multiple threats at once. It also tends to spend a similar amount of mana to deal with a threat regardless of what it is. Teferi and Gird for Battle both eat a single Spell Pierce.

You sometimes hear sports commentators talk about how an attacking team “asks questions of the defense.” If you ask Mono Blue Tempo questions one at a time, in an orderly fashion, it has a good shot at coming up with the right answers. Even the really tough questions. On the other hand, if you can put it into the lightning round and start firing questions left and right then it can flub some easy ones.

There’s a similar dynamic with mono red aggro. Go low to the ground and start attacking the life total on turn one and on the Mono Blue Tempo side of things I’ll start figuring out where I’m going to go eat lunch after the loss. Go Big Red and try to win with four and five drops and I’m at least in the game. The red matchup is of course worse overall because of the cheap removal that lines up well with Team Blue.

The Example

I know that the plural of anecdote is not data. I don’t offer this specific game as proof that this is a good matchup. However, the discussion above is pretty abstract. I think it helps to have a more concrete example to illustrate what I’m talking about. For what it’s worth, in my experience this game is a fair representation of how it feels to pilot Mono Blue Tempo against mid-sized aggro when you both have good hands.

This is game one of a three game match in a competitive standard league. I am on my usual list. I lost the die roll and am on the draw:

I keep seven: Island, Island, Island, Trickster, Trickster, Djinn, Spell Pierce

Not an exciting hand, but I’m not going to mulligan a three lander. Especially if it has Tempest Djinn.

Opponent mulligans to six and leaves a card on top.

Opp T1: plays Plains, casts Skymarcher Aspirant

This gives me a sinking feeling. My initial thought is that I’m up against the eighteen plains deck with no one drop of my own. I do take some comfort in the Tricksters.

My T1: draw Curious Obsession, play Island

This really puts to the test the idea that you’re always happy to draw Curious Obsession. The good news is that now if I’m able to stabilize then the Obsession makes sure I can pull away. The bad news is that I can’t play anything on turn one.

Opp T2: plays Clifftop Retreat, casts Adanto Vanguard; attacks for 2

My T2: draw Merfolk Trickster, play Island

I am very thankful not to see the dreaded double one drop play on turn two. With multiple Tricksters in hand I’m not worried about the Vanguard.

Opp T3: plays Plains, casts Benalish Marshal, attacks with the team; I flash in Trickster and trade with the Vanguard

For those of you scoring at home, the Trickster blanks the Vanguard’s abilities. This includes the pump from being on the attack and the ability to make itself indestructible (if the opponent pays four life before the trigger resolves then the trickster also wipes out the indestructibility). The pump from the Benalish Marshal sticks around and makes the Vanguard into a vanilla 2/2 that trades with the Trickster. The Aspirant gets in for 3, making the life total score 15-20.

Opponent has two cards in hand, with three lands, Benalish marshal, and Skymarcher Aspirant in play.

I have two islands in play. My hand is Merfolk Trickster, Merfolk Trickster, Tempest Djinn, Curious Obsession, Spell Pierce, Island.

My T3: draw Siren Stormtamer, play Island

Opp T4: plays Clifftop retreat, casts Knight of Grace; precombat I flash in trickster and tap marshal, he passes with no attacks.

To me this is a pretty clear indicator that the opponent has a Benalish Marshal or Heroic Reinforcements in hand. If he’s holding blanks then the natural move is to attack with the Skymarcher to clear the board for his big guys to get in next turn. Keeping the Skymarcher back makes sense if he’s holding a pump effect that will let the Skymarcher attack through a Trickster. He probably would have played the Marshal if he had it, so I’m expecting (hoping for) Heroic Reinforcements next turn.

A mono white deck might be holding Pride of Conquerors, but Boros usually doesn’t run that card.

My T4: draw Dive Down, pass

Opp T5: plays Mountain, casts Heroic Reinforcements; I Spell Pierce; precombat Merfolk Trickster taps Benalish Marshal; he sends Knight of Grace into the red zone; I double block so it trades with one trickster.

I don’t love the attack there. I suspect the opponent didn’t appreciate how much trouble I would have blocking the Knight of Grace as a 3/3. On the other hand, by trading off it does set the Benalish Marshal up for an attack next turn.

Opponent is now hellbent with Marshal, Skymarcher Aspirant, and five lands; I have trickster and three islands in play with djinn, obsession, stormtamer, and dive down in hand. Life total is 15-20.

My T5: draw Warkite Marauder, play Djinn

I don’t want the Marshal getting into the red zone and chipping away at my life total. I’m hoping to fade a draw step here. The Boros Weenie decks are usually very light on removal, and I’m a little worried that if the game drags on the opponent can chain Marshals, histories, and four drops to put me in trouble. If the opponent does draw removal right away it isn’t great, but I can still salvage things. If the opponent draws a land or a little creature then I should be golden. I just really don’t want the opponent to draw Heroic Reinforcements.

Opp T6: casts Heroic Reinforcements, attacks with Benalish Marshal, Skymarcher Aspirant, and two tokens; Merfolk Trickster chumps Marshal and Tempest Djinn eats a token; I take seven going to 8.

My T6: draw Wizard’s Retort, play Stormtamer

The Heroic Reinforcements means that I have to abandon the dream of suiting up Tempest Djinn and getting in while my little guys sit back and block. Fortunately, keeping the Tempest Djinn on defense means that my opponent doesn’t have good attacks. The Retort offers some security against any future heroics.

Opp T7: draw, go

My T7: draw Wizard’s Retort, put Curious Obsession on Stormtamer, attack, draw island; play island

From this point I was firmly in control of the game. The opponent didn’t resolve another spell while I gradually built up a larger and larger attacking force.

Obviously my hand was quite good. I want as many tricksters as I can get against aggro, one Djinn was exactly what I needed to fortify my defenses, Spell Pierce was clutch, and Curious Obsession sealed the deal at the end. On the other hand, the opponent was on the play and after going to six they got pretty much what they would have asked for out of their deck: a one drop, two two drops, Benalish Marshal, and two Heroic Reinforcements, all coming down on time with no mana problems. The opponent didn’t make any blatant misplays. And the opponent never really came close to winning.

I’m pretty sure that if you gave the 18 plains deck a six card hand as good for it as this hand was for the Boros aggro deck then I would have been run over. What’s the difference? Well, look again at what the Boros player was doing. If you notice, they only ever cast one spell per turn. It’s very hard to beat Mono Blue with one spell per turn.

I think you can generalize this to other deck types to some extent. It might not always be two threats. It might be a threat plus an answer. Or a sweeper plus a counterspell. However you’re doing it, if you want to thump Mono Blue then you really want to be double spelling as quickly as possible.

Conversely, I think this game shows how there’s more to piloting Mono Blue than just slamming Curious Obsession ASAP. You don’t need to make any sick reads or leaps of genius. You just have to recognize you’re on the defensive and then try to line up one for one trades and spoil your opponent’s attacks. Eventually the goal is to start connecting with either an Obsession or a Djinn, but you don’t have to be in a hurry to turn your guys sideways. Just ride out the initial onslaught and you should get a chance to turn things around.

Unless you see Gird for Battle. Then you’re in trouble.

Magic The Gathering Arena Mono Blue Tempo Strategy Guide By: jrk264


Mono Blue Tempo has been putting up results since rotation. It’s shown up in every release of 5-0 decks, it’s popped up in big tournament top 8s, it has won its share of PPTQs, and Gabriel Nassif took it to the top 2 of a GP. Despite that, the tone of people posting about success with the deck has been almost apologetic. It’s almost like the deck doesn’t cost enough for people to take it seriously.

I’ve seen some good individual matchup analyses and high-level overviews of this deck, but I haven’t seen that anybody has written up a comprehensive guide. I figured I’d throw my hat into the ring.


Who am I?

Just a guy. Been playing mtg off and on since Revised. I have a long standing fondness for low to the ground mono-colored decks. My modo fortunes tend to ebb and flow with their quality. I have had a share of the competitive trophy league off and on for these last few weeks, largely on the back of mono blue tempo. Previously I’ve never even really been on the first page of the trophy results.

At the very least, I’m confident that I’ve put enough reps in with this deck that I have a decent idea of what I’m talking about.

Why play this deck?

Three main reasons: (1) the nut draw is really good; (2) you can steal more wins than you think; and (3) the deck rewards good play and harshly punishes bad play.

The nut draw of one drop into Curious Obsession into counter everything relevant beats a lot of opposing hands. I’m not saying that you should play the deck just to mise people out when you spike the nuts, but whether you’re playing a long tournament or grinding online it’s nice to get free wins every now and then.

Even if you don’t get Curious Obsession going, it’s quite possible to win games. The combination of Tempest Djinn and Merfolk Trickster can outrace more creatures on the other side of the board than you would expect. Especially when backed by a bit of counter magic.

The harsh punishment of bad play isn’t necessarily a feature, but it’s a result of the fact that you have a lot of choices with this deck. For good or ill, after most games you will feel like the outcome was a result of your decisions.

The one thing you don’t have is a reset button. This does mean that when things go horribly wrong you can reach a no-outs situation a little quicker than some other decks. As a result there is a lot of pressure on you to stop things from going horribly wrong in the first place, but you do have a decent suite of tools available to do just that. Sometimes it doesn’t work out–it’s a competitive game, after all–but the deck doesn’t get totally steamrolled all that often if you’re on form.

What is the deck?

The various versions of the Mono Blue Tempo deck have coalesced into a core of 48 cards:

20 Island

4 Mist-Cloaked Herald
4 Siren Stormtamer
4 Merfolk Trickster
4 Tempest Djinn

4 Curious Obsession

4 Wizard’s Retort
4 Dive Down

The remaining twelve cards and sideboard are where you can personalize the list to your tastes. The core is strong enough to win with just about any cheap blue cards, but there are some patterns in how the successful lists usually fill out the deck.

2-4 two drop fliers: 0-4 Nightveil Sprite and 0-4 Warkite Marauder
2-6 card draw effects: 0-2 Chart a Course and 0-4 Opt
2-4 additional counters: 0-2 Essence Scatter and 0-4 Spell Pierce
0-3 tempo plays: 0-1 Sleep and 0-2 Exclusion Mage
0-1 island (usually the extra island comes along with Sleep and Exclusion Mage as they bump up the curve)

The sideboards typically have some anti-aggro cards, some counterspells, some racing tech, and a little spice. Note that the counterspells are more for tuning than for wholesale inclusion. You usually don’t go up past 10 total counters after sideboarding.

I prefer a list that is on the more tempo-ish end of the overall spectrum: https://www.mtggoldfish.com/deck/1448999#paper

20 Island

4 Mist-Cloaked Herald
4 Siren Stormtamer
4 Warkite Marauder
4 Merfolk Trickster
4 Tempest Djinn

4 Curious Obsession

4 Wizard’s Retort
4 Spell Pierce
4 Dive Down
4 Opt


2 Disdainful Stroke
2 Negate
2 Essence Scatter
2 Exclusion Mage
3 Surge Mare
2 Deep Freeze
1 Sleep
1 Selective Snare

Why four Warkite Marauder? I like having twenty creatures. It helps a ton against flying blockers, and a lot of the meta features flying blockers at the moment. With Chainwhirlers at a low ebb the one toughness doesn’t matter that often.

Why four Spell Pierce? It maximizes the chance of a nut draw. It’s also a monstrous tempo swing when it’s good. While there are matches where it’s mediocre, it’s never straight up dead the way Essence Scatter can be. I understand if you don’t want to go all in on the Spell Pierce, but I’ve hit enough planeswalkers with them that I’m reluctant to trim on them.

Opt over Chart a Course? Opt is better when we are digging for what we need early. It has the same chance of finding a good card in the top two, it has half the mana cost, and it can be cast using “leftover” mana on the opponent’s end step. Chart a Course is better for refueling later in the game. I put a higher priority on the early game with this deck, so I like Opt. Reasonable people can disagree.

Why not have Essence Scatter, Sleep, or Exclusion Mage in the main deck? I like consistency for game one. I’d rather consistently have access to Spell Pierce when I need it than occasionally have the Essence Scatter or Sleep. In my experience the anti-creature suite is usually a nice to have rather than a need to have (and we do already have Retort, Trickster, and Marauder for board management), while when you need Spell Pierce you really need Spell Pierce. Your mileage certainly may vary.

Surge Mare? Every mono-blue sideboard seems to have a few pet cards in it. Surge Mare is mine. I originally added them for the red matchup after Diamond Mare let me down a few times. It’s okay there as an 0/5 wall that makes them spend some burn to get their Steamkin and Chainwhirlers through to your face. Where it has really surprised me is in the Golgari and Jeskai matchups. Against Golgari it can block their biggest explore team member indefinitely and threatens to greenwalk in for four at the end of a race. Against Jeskai you can play it on turn two and be confident you’ll get to untap with it, as it shrugs off Justice Strike, Lava Coil, and Deafening Clarion. When it has a clear run it makes a wonderful Obsession carrier.

Deep Freeze is so you have an out against Niv-Mizzet. Selective Snare is tentative tech for the 18-land white blitz deck that just popped up. Everything else is fairly straightforward.

How do you play the deck?

Generally speaking, your game plan has three stages:

(1) Apply pressure with cheap early creatures.

(2) Disrupt the opponent’s plan with countermagic and Merfolk Trickster.

(3) Play Tempest Djinn with protection available to close it out.

If you have a Curious Obsession going, you can often skip step three. If you don’t get a Curious Obsession, the smooth transition into Djinn beatdown is key. If you don’t have an Obsession or a Djinn then you need your hand to line up perfectly with the opponent’s, or for the opponent to have a bad hand.

The big skill tests involved in playing the deck are: (1) when to play Curious Obsession; (2) when to play Tempest Djinn; (3) when to tap out; (4) when to use counterspells; (5) which counterspell to use; and (6) how to use Merfolk Trickster.

When do you play Curious Obsession?

Rule of thumb: when you are confident you can get two hits out of it. In general it’s more important to get it in play safely than it is to get it down quickly.

It’s often a good idea to wait until your opponent is tapped out before running the Obsession out there if the opponent runs instant speed removal. Otherwise you risk getting dragged into a big fight during your turn that leaves the door open for the opponent to resolve a bomb on their turn.

Consider the situation where you have four islands in play after making your land drop for the turn. You have a Mist-Cloaked Herald and Warkite Marauder in play, and Curious Obsession, Dive Down, and Wizard’s Retort in hand. It’s tempting to slam the Obsession, but if the opponent responds with a kill spell you will be forced into using your Dive Down. You’ll get to draw a card, but your opponent will get to land their Cleansing Nova or Doom Whisperer or Teferi or Ral or what have you. It’s even worse if you get maneuvered into tapping out so the opponent knows the coast is clear.

When do you play Tempest Djinn?

Rule of thumb: when you can protect it. Necessary protection can range from a single untapped island and a Stormtamer or Dive Down to enough mana and countermagic to keep Teferi off the board.

You really don’t want to cast a Tempest Djinn only to see it die right away. You really really don’t want the opponent to kill your djinn and get a planeswalker in play while you stare at your Wizard’s Retort in hand that you can’t cast.

The easiest way to lose a winnable game is to get your Tempest Djinn killed when you didn’t have to. Obviously there are situations where you don’t have a choice and you just run it out there and hope it sticks, but if you have the chance to set up some protection for it you probably should.

When do you tap out?


But if I tap out this turn I’ll be way ahead and as long as my opponent doesn’t do anything too bad I’ll be winning on board and I’ll never tap out again.

No. Stop.

Your opponent put cards into their deck because they were good. Your opponent kept this hand because it had potential. In all likelihood, your opponent is holding strong cards that have not been cast because your opponent didn’t have enough mana and/or was respecting the power of your untapped islands. When you tap out, it gives your opponent the green light to do horrible, horrible things to the board state. Don’t turn into one of those people who whines about how the opponent “always has it” after you punt away a winnable game.

So I should never ever tap out?

Well, ok, that’s not quite right. Sometimes you do have to take some chances in order to advance the board state. Of course for the first couple turns you need to get your guys on the board to start the beats. After that, the most obvious situation where it’s ok to tap out is if you are losing badly on the board. If it’s clear that you will lose if you let things continue as they are, go ahead and slam your best cards. Tap out for Tempest Djinn in order to stabilize the board. Tap out for a Curious Obsession or two in order to try and draw out of your situation.

Just be aware that once you enter YOLO mode the most likely outcome is that you will lose. You are gambling on the opponent’s hand being worse than it looks. Sometimes it works out and you steal the win. Usually the opponent has some removal and you lose. You want to take your best shot to win in an unfavorable situation, but it often won’t work out.

The more murky situation is when things are neutral but you feel the game slipping away. Whenever you play an aggressive deck you should have that clock going in the back of your head. If you’re reaching the point in the game where you will be in trouble if the board isn’t tilted your way then you can start taking some chances in order to push things in your favor. But, honestly, you should feel bad about tapping out and you should be looking for reasons not to do it. Most of the people that I see piloting this deck against streamers that I follow are way too eager to tap out.

In general, the better your hand, the more reluctant you should be to tap out.

What spells do I counter?

Rule of thumb: If you’re winning, counter opposing spells that make it so you are losing. If you are losing, counter anything that makes it worse. If you’re winning and they cast a spell that will level things out (in other words, a sweeper), evaluate the context: if you have multiple counters, go ahead and counter it. If you only have one… how many cards are you drawing next turn? How quickly can you close the game out if you counter? Can you rebuild quickly if you let it go? If the game is going to last for a while, you may want to let the sweeper through so that you have a counter available for the next bomb.

Be very careful of picking counter battles during your turn, doubly so against Jeskai control. It’s usually not worth stopping their removal if it means letting them resolve Teferi. Now, if you can do it with one mana open and snipe Teferi with a Spell Pierce on the next turn, then by all means go for it.

Which counter magic do I use?

This comes up when the opponent uses targeted removal. You will often have a choice between some combination of cashing in a Stormtamer, using Dive Down, or casting Spell Pierce. This can be a tougher decision than you might think. The obvious point is that using the Stormtamer will cost you points of damage while preserving the mystery of what’s in your hand. The more subtle point to consider is what is coming next.

Spell Pierce, in the early to mid game, can counter sweepers and keep planeswalkers off the battlefield. It can’t do anything to a Ravenous Chupacabra and it quickly loses its ability to stop cheap removal spells. Dive Down can stop any targeted removal and save a selected creature from a Deafening Clarion, but it can’t do anything about Cleansing Nova or Settle the Wreckage. Siren Stormtamer can stop targeted removal and even provides unconditional protection against effects that target you (most notably Settle the Wreckage) but itself is a 1 toughness creature that can die more easily than you’d like.

If the opponent is only on sorcery speed removal (often the case for Izzet Phoenix against a Djinn) and you are tapping out, then the Dive Down will protect your creature for the whole turn while the other two only protect it from the current threat.

Basically, you need to think about how you intend to navigate the game and what you will need protection against in the future before you decide which resource you want to expend in the moment.

How do I use Merfolk Trickster?

As an ambush creature, the Trickster can eat any 1/1 or 1/2 attacker. Most notably this includes Adanto Vanguard, Mist-Cloaked Herald, Ghitu Lavarunner, and small flyers.

As a combat trick, the Trickster can zero out the power of Tempest Djinn, Enigma Drake, and Crackling Drake. If you have one Trickster on the board and another one flashed in fresh, the two of them can take out an attacking djinn/drake and survive the experience.

As a tempo play, the Trickster can save you a lot of life for one turn by tapping down one attacker and chump blocking another. You usually want to deploy this particular trick as late as possible unless the Trickster can trade with an attacker (e.g. a big Branchwalker).

In a pinch, the Trickster can shut off a Wildgrowth Walker in response to an explore creature being cast.

If you don’t have any other bodies available, the Trickster does a reasonable job of beating down for its casting cost, although you’ll need to have a ton of permission on hand if you want to keep the board clear and actually suit it up with a Curious Obsession.

How about the specific matchups?

Mono Blue Tempo is a deck that really benefits from its pilot understanding the matchup it’s in. If you approach each game with an idea of how it’s going to go and a plan for victory you’ll do better than if you just try to cast your best card every turn. Below I’ll walk through the most common matchups that I’ve run into and give my thoughts. The sideboarding suggestions are relative to my preferred list. Most mono blue sideboards have cards aimed at similar things (tuning counterspells, anti-aggro tech, race-winning tech). If your deck differs from mine in the particulars then just treat the suggestions as pointing towards which area of your sideboard you should at least consider in each matchup.

Golgari Midrange

I find this matchup to be pretty good for us. It gets better the more expensive the spells are in their deck and hand. When they go low to the ground with the Wildgrowth Walker and explore creature beatdown things can get scary. When they try to win by resolving 4-5-6 mana bombs we’re usually ok.

Be very aware of the need to protect your key creatures. They will always have something in hand that can kill your obsessed guy or your djinn. Always. The good news is that they tend to tap out in order to forward their own game plan, so you can usually suit up your guy with obsession for a free hit and not need to worry about countermagic until you pass the turn.

Don’t get pulled into a grind fest. You want this to be a race. Even if you’re losing it in the initial stages, the Djinn and/or Trickster can catch you up in a hurry. Be aware of your djinn math. A turn four djinn hits for 5-6-7, ideally, so if your early creatures can chip in for 2-5 points of damage they have done their jobs and can go to chump block mode. You also need to get out on the front foot so you can race Carnage Tyrant if it shows up.

It’s possible to get bombed out of the game if you run out of countermagic before they die. In general, though, an opponent who plays one big spell a turn and can’t interact on the stack is our favorite kind of opponent.

Sideboard: -2 opt, -2 spell pierce, -2 trickster; +2 essence scatter, +2 disdainful stroke, +2 surge mare

Tune the counter suite and use surge mare to manage the race. Bounce tech is not good here. You can run sleep if you want, although it’s basically just a fog.

Jeskai Control

Patience. Patience. Patience.

The main thing is not to let them resolve the spells that tilt the game in their favor. On the draw against a glacial fortress I’ll often keep spell pierce up for Search for Azcanta or Azor’s Gateway if I have it. You want to keep them under steady pressure and counter their bombs. If they have a hot hand they can power through and beat us, but usually I think we have a solid chance.

The way you lose this matchup is by tapping out to overextend into a wrath. Don’t do that. The spells they want to cast are Deafening Clarion on three, Crackling Drake on four, and Teferi or Cleansing Nova on five. Plan accordingly.

The other way you lose is by casting Curious Obsession into open mana, getting drawn into a fight over it and winning the fight only to see the opponent untap and blow you out. Don’t do that, either. Ideally, you want to cast Curious Obsession before the opponent has removal up or after the opponent tapped out in an attempt to cast a bomb that you countered.

You do want to keep them under enough pressure that they can’t just casually find and cast a Niv-Mizzet, especially post board. Finding the right balance can be tricky, but that’s part of the fun, right?

Sideboard: -2 spell pierce, -2 opt, -2 marauder, +2 surge mare, +2 disdainful stroke, +2 negate

Again, tune the counters. Surge Mare is sneaky good here. It’s almost guaranteed to survive until you untap, it’s great value with Obsession, and in a stagnant game swinging for two a turn with a loot is pretty solid.

The marauders are better against Lyra while tricksters are better against Legion Warboss. It’s a matter of which one you think is more likely. Personally I’m a little more scared of Warbosses coming down while I’m not ready to counter them.

The matchup gets tougher post board. Jeskai has access to all kinds of crazy stuff depending on how they want to approach things (Warboss, History of Benalia, Rekindling Phoenix, Lyra, and Niv-Mizzet are all possibilities). Fortunately, sideboard cards alone aren’t enough to switch them completely into a beatdown deck. They still want to control the board. Stick to the basic plan of early pressure + counterspells and you should be all right.

Izzet Phoenix

This one is rough. They play cheap removal and lots of flyers and don’t even need to resolve their spells to win. They also have multiple Niv-Mizzets lurking in the sideboard. Gross.

The playset of Warkite Marauders has brought my personal record in this matchup from roughly 0% win rate to a smidge below 50%. It’s just impossible to keep all of their flyers off the board. You need the Marauder in order to make clean attacks.

If you’re going to win this one, what you need to do is to race their phoenixes with your team while using your counterspells to keep drakes off the battlefield. Spend your spell pierces freely on their cantrips. You need to throw a monkey wrench in the machine and keep them from reaching critical mass.

In all honesty, if they play a turn two Electromancer–especially in game one, and especially especially off an island and a dual land–well, don’t concede early, but go ahead and mentally prepare yourself for the experience of a loss.

I always feel like I got away with something after I take a match from the phoenix deck. Objectively speaking, I think the deal is that their best hands will just beat us but in a battle of mediocre hands we have a slight edge.

Sideboard: -4 spell pierce, -2 opt; +2 essence scatter, +2 Deep Freeze, +1 sleep, +1 exclusion mage

Again, you are looking to keep drakes away and race the phoenix squad. In a pinch you can refrigerate the phoenix, but you really want to save Deep Freeze for Niv Mizzet. In a way, our deck’s extreme vulnerability to Mizzy P can work in our favor. The Izzet deck will keep bad hands that have Niv Mizzet and will play out the game with the thought that casting Niv Mizzet guarantees victory. That means that any time we can put him on ice we should have a fighting chance to win.

If they untap with Niv Mizzet we do in fact lose, though.


Bomb after bomb after bomb.

They have more bombs than we have ways to counter them. They also have largely moved Deafening Clarion into the sideboard. You want to keep the pedal to the metal and close the game out ASAP. We actually do a good job racing their cheap dudes. The danger is that the angel squad will take over.

Marauder helps a lot here. It’s hard to keep all the angels off the field. Being able to attack through one of them can decide the game.

The trickster also shines in this matchup. Whether its eating Adanto Vanguards, turning off angelic abilities, or clearing the way for the fatal attack, you should be able to get some good value out of it. The Tocatli Honor Guard does shut off the trickster, so be aware of that. The Marauder does work just fine in the face of the Honor Guard, of course.

If they go on the little dudes + Ajani plan it can be correct to ignore Ajani and go at their face as long as you can win the race. The enemy gate is down.

Sideboard: -4 spell pierce, -2 opt; +2 essence scatter, +2 disdainful stroke, +1 selective snare, +1 sleep

The sideboard plan is geared to fend off their bombs. Selective Snare and Sleep can buy us that crucial turn that lets us close out the game. It’s also possible some number of Exclusion Mages should be in there, depending on your read of what they’re doing with their Honor Guards.

Mono red aggro

The good news is that you aren’t going to see this matchup a lot. The bad news is that you aren’t going to win this matchup much, either.

Magical Christmasland plan: use Trickster to eat one early attacker and trade with another, then play and protect a Tempest Djinn to stonewall their assault and turn the corner.

Actual outcome: all of your guys die to a flurry of burn while you take damage from a mob of cheap creatures, then the burn gets pointed at your face and you lose.

If you draw a lot of Djinns and they flood out then it’s possible to steal game one, but it’s rough.

Sideboard: -3 Spell Pierce, -2 Opt, -2 Mist-Cloaked Herald; +2 essence scatter, +3 surge mare, +2 exclusion mage

You are looking to hold the ground until your Tempest Djinn can take over. I find Surge Mare does a better job of preserving my life total in this matchup than the Diamond Mare. You also need to be conscious of either not overextending into a Chainwhirler or keeping a counter ready for the Chainwhirler. As an added bonus, you also have to make sure they don’t resolve an Experimental Frenzy and that you can beat a Rekindling Phoenix. Good times.

What if I don’t draw a Tempest Djinn? Good question. In that situation you should smile and accept the result with dignity. Remember, it’s just a game. Losing builds character.

White-based aggro

We have a much better shot in this matchup than we do against mono red. Their relative dearth of removal and reach make a huge difference.

The basic strategy is to trade creatures aggressively except for your one evasive Obsessioned attacker (if you have one). Try to keep their big three drops off the table. Getting to spell pierce a History of Benalia will help your win percentage. So will eating an Adanto Vanguard with the trickster. Remember when the race is in its final stages that you can trickster the Benalish Marshal to turn off the pump. Tempest Djinn is huge here as a blocker and then as a closer.

If you ever get to pass the turn with countermagic up and a neutral board state after turn four or so then you should win.

The eighteen land white weenie deck presents a more extreme version of the basic problem. They also present the annoyance of flying chump blockers to disrupt our racing math. The good news is that their deck is fairly prone to lose to itself by way of mana screw/flood. The bad news is that their nut draw is pretty unbeatable for us. So it goes.

Sideboard: -4 Spell Pierce, -2 Opt, -1/2 Dive Down; +2 essence scatter, +2 exclusion mage, +2 surge mare, +1 sleep, +0/1 selective snare

Put on your racing shoes. Against the 18 land version you pull a second dive down to make room for the snare. You want to bounce their +1/+1 counter carriers as much as you can.

Be aware that the bigger white(-ish) weenie decks will be wanting to get to Heroic Reinforcements and/or Experimental Frenzy on four. You can’t always do anything about it, but if you can protect yourself from those bombs by waiting a turn or so to start trying to get damage in then you should probably do so.

Ramp Decks

This matchup is where we get to be the fun police. Anybody trying to cast Zacama, Omniscience, or Lich’s Mastery is obviously trying to relocate too much fun over to their side of the table. We can’t allow that. Hang onto your share of the fun by countering their wraths while keeping a counter back for their payoffs. Also make sure to develop the board enough to race Carnage Tyrant, and you’ll be fine. Go down opts and possibly spell pierce in exchange for your favorite counters. If you’re up against a list that skimps on targeted removal you can also trim dive down. This is the rare situation where 12 counters can be the right configuration post sideboard.

Mirror Match

In the mirror you have a 50/50 chance of a really interesting match with lots of tactical decisions and a 50/50 chance of a stupid runaway.

In general the early game is all about Curious Obsession and the mid-late game is about Tempest Djinn. The side that’s attacking is usually the side that’s favored.

Merfolk Trickster is a powerful card throughout the game. It can eat an attacking one drop or zero out a Djinn’s power. If the opponent has one creature and puts obsession on it, Trickster can try and tap it to make the Obsession fall off.

Warkite Marauder is a beast in the mirror as well. It makes blocking a nightmare. You can get some counter-blowouts out of countering the trigger with Dive Down.

Stormtamer Siren can counter Trickster triggers, Marauder triggers, and Sleep.

The mirror is the one time you are happy to jam Tempest Djinn on turn three. You should be far more worried about the Djinn being countered than the Djinn being removed. Any time the opponent is tapped down go ahead and slam the Djinn. Note that post board you do want to be aware of bounce effects and random tech (Entrancing Melody has blown me out on occasion). I think it’s usually more correct to play around countermagic than the other stuff, but if it’s possible to play around both then you should.

It’s more possible than you might think to win despite a Curious Obsession disadvantage. I have won a game where my opponent had two heralds wearing an Obsession each and I had no Obsessions of my own… because I had two Djinns and a Marauder beating down. Keep an eye out for that transition from when card advantage matters to when life totals matter. Sometimes you want to sell out to stop the Obsession value train and sometimes you want to just ignore it and try to kill them.

Sideboard: -2 spell pierce, -2 opt, -2 dive down; +2 exclusion mage, +2 essence scatter, +1 sleep, +1 selective snare

Spell Pierce is weird in the mirror. Early on it can be your only defense against an obsession. Later it’s at best a Dispel. I think you want to keep some around, but I’m not sure that it’s right.

Dive Down can be pretty handy. Since blue removal is so weak I think it’s fine to trim some but I like to keep a couple copies in. One thing you want to watch out for in the mirror is that blue has some weird tech that can be thrown at your creatures (Selective Snare, Deep Freeze, Entrancing Melody). There’s also the bread and butter Trickster/Marauder/Exclusion Mage triggers you may want to stop. Worst come to worst it’s a decent combat trick.

Final Thoughts

Mono blue tempo is a good deck. Not good for the price. Not good for a mono colored deck. It’s just good.

It’s also fun to play. You have a lot of choices, starting early in the game. You get a lot of chances to make mistakes, but also a lot of chances to make good decisions. Once you’ve played it a few times and start to get a feel for the deck I think you’ll enjoy playing it.

I hope this guide was useful. The length got away from me a bit, and I’m sure I got some things wrong. Please share your observations from playing with the deck so people don’t get sucked into following my bad advice.

Magic The Gathering Arena Playing Competitively As F2P By: streamofmight


Hi all

I love MTG, started playing paper during Mirrodin and stopped around end of Darksteel period as it was too expensive a hobby as a teen. Loved it though.

Recently, read that MTGA exited closed beta, tried it and I am having a blast.

I am such an addict to MTG that I find myself checking this subreddit multiple times a day when I’m working, commenting on posts just to feed my addiction. What I noticed is that many players encounter difficulties in building a collection while remaining F2P.

I have played for 3 weeks so far and I have a fully fleshed out Golgari, RDW and Izzet Drakes deck. If you are interested on how I did it, please read on and maybe it will inspire you to do the same.


  • You have dropped $5 on the welcome pack to support the developers.
  • You like MTG and want to improve your game and increase your w/r
  • You have to invest time in the game. You either invest time or money. You can’t do neither and expect to have a competitive deck. That just doesn’t sound logical.
  • Track your games. It helps you make decisions as to which formats to play and how to tech your deck against common match-ups.


  • Go to www.mtgtop8.com. Figure out which of the decks in standard really resonates with you. It is important to really find a deck that you find fun to play with, because you are going to play A LOT of that deck. The cheaper the deck is, the faster you can start playing competitively. I chose Mono Red at the start.
  • At the start, use the starter decks (I recommend the merfolk/vampire (BW) one and do your dailies, preferably for 15 wins. Minimally do 4 wins, which gets you (1050 gold – 500 + 250 + 100 x 3).
  • Buy packs that are in the same format as the cards you require. Overtime, your deck should slowly come together and you can use wildcards to craft those you lack. Took 1 week for me to get a full Mono Red deck.
  • Test your skills in ladder, but don’t spend too much time on it. Once you get how your deck works, and get a flavor of what decks other people play and your game plan against them, start playing Constructed Event (CE). It’s this format that you pay 500 gold to enter and you play until you get 7 wins or 3 losses. The higher your wins, the more gold you get back, and at the end of your run, you get 3 cards (ranging from uncommons to rares, depending on your number of wins).
  • Keep doing CE. I average about 64% w/r on CE, which is about 5 wins. Takes me an hour to finish all 8 games (5-3) and get 2 uncommons and 1 rares. I play about 2 hours a day on average and overtime you will get better and your w/r increases. With a higher w/r, you get even more gold and more rares, which really help with your collection.
  • Any spare gold goes into buying packs as that gets you wildcard progression which is the key to getting the (next) deck that you want
  • Overtime, once you get better and more confident with your deck, consider going BO3 Competitive Constructed (CC). Based on my analysis, stick to CE if you can get 6 wins on average. Otherwise, check your CC w/r. If you can get 3 wins on average for CC, do CC. If you can’t do either, stick to CE. I will provide my argument in a separate paragraph.
  • If you do this consistently, you will end up with a lot more gold, a lot more card rewards, which will all contribute to your collection and get you the cards that you need. My current deck status: https://imgur.com/a/OxD0RPj
  • Also, don’t be in a rush to complete 500 gold quests as you can re-roll to 750 gold the next day if you get a 750 gold quest the next day. Every gold counts!

CC or CE?

  • This was a question on my mind at the start. For starters, just do CE. It has a low cost of entry (500 gold) and at 50% win rate, you get 3 uncommons at the cost of 100 gold, which is not bad. If you can get 57% w/r or 4 wins, you get 2 uncommons and 1 rare/mythic for no gold loss, just time invested. This 4 wins should be your first target to hit consistently. Improve in your piloting and you should hit this in no time.
  • Next milestone is to hit 5 wins consistently. Once you are there, start trying CC. 5 wins in CE is 62% w/r, getting you 1 rare/mythic and 2 UCs. 3 wins in CC is 60% w/r, getting you 2 rare/mythic and 1 UC. So CC is better if you can get 60% w/r. Granted, CC games take longer, but the gold profit is also higher. 5 Wins on CE gets you 100 gold profit but 3 wins on CC gets you 500 gold profit.

I have done the analysis and I recommend the below. I have taken into account time spent into my analysis

  • Play CE if you can only get 4 wins or below on CE.
  • Play CE if you can get 5 wins on CE but 2 wins on CC.
  • Play CE if you can get 6 wins on CE but 3 wins on CC.
  • Play CC if you can get 5 wins on CE but 3 wins on CC
  • Play CC if you can get 4/5 wins on CC.
  • If you can get 2 wins on CC and 3 wins on CE, it is tricky. 1 game takes about 7.5 mins. Assume BO3 to be 2.5 games on average and a 2-2 CC game will take 75 mins. 3-3 CE will take you just 45 mins and 3 UCs. A 2-2 CC gives you 1 rare and 2 UCs. So it all depends on whether you want to sink the time to get that rare upgrade.
  • Play CC/CE rather than buying packs even if your w/r is <50%. At 33% w/r for CC (1-2), you get 1 rare and 2 UC for 500 gold, which is better than 1 pack for 1000 gold. However, the other cost to you is time.

That was a long text but I hope it is useful. I won’t touch on draft because by now, it is clear that if you want to make a specific deck –> buy packs and not play draft. And if you want to build a general collection and vault progress –> play draft. If you love to play draft –> play draft.

Other Tips from Comments

  • At some point, your collection will be like so huge (80-90%). When that happens, it might be worthwhile to save the gold in preparation for the next expansion.
  • Let your current collection decide what you build. You want to get the ball rolling in CE as soon as possible, and fortunately standard has a lot of viable decks at the moment, so just pick one of the top decks that you are closest to completing.
  • Once you have most of the GRN cards you need, stop buying GRN packs. You get 3 per week for free, so start opening from other sets you need cards from.
  • Where possible, avoid crafting that 4th copy of a mythic/rare unless you absolutely need it for a deck to function. I’ve avoided completing the 4th shock and check lands for most decks. Yes, your deck will be a little off in terms of mana, but there are guild gates and the other tap duals you can substitute. Even important cards like your major threats and bombs can be subbed out for one different card. Avoiding 5th copy rewards is a big deal when starting off because every 5th copy is essentially a wasted Wild Card.

Overwatch Relative Aim Sensitivity Guide By: Tyrulan


Welcome fellow snipers! I’m sure many of you, myself included, were confused by the aim sensitivity option for Ana and Widowmaker. The value slider ranges from 0-100, and is defaulted to 30. What does this mean? Should I change it? Consider this your guide then, because by the end we’ll have developed a good understanding of how changing the sensitivity affects your gameplay.

TLDR: If you just want to know which relative aim sensitivity to use, skip to the conclusions at the end.

The goal of this guide is produce a formula that can calculate the required relative aim sensitivity for as many of the following criteria as possible:

  • The scoped sensitivity feels the same as unscoped, and is thus ratio perfect.
  • The scoped sensitivity is calibrated for a specific turning angle.
  • Flick shots feel the same or similar to how they feel on a hero like McCree.

When all criteria are satisfied we achieve what’s often called a 1:1 sensitivity. That is to say the movement of your mouse or controller required to flick for a headshot is identical when scoped and unscoped, after factoring in the change in field of view.

The Relative Aim Sensitivity While Zoomed setting is only available for Widowmaker and Ana. It can be found in the Controls menu by selecting either of them from the hero dropdown.


  • Resolution – The dimensions in which the game is running. E.g. 1920×1080, 2560×1440. This is measured in pixels and will typically match your monitor.
  • Aspect Ratio – The ratio of your resolution’s width to height and is represented by two numbers, such as 16:9. The aspect ratio is used to resize an image while maintaining its proportions.
  • Field of View – (FOV) The extent at which you can view the world. Typically measured as an angle. A higher field of view angle will allow you to see more of the world, like stepping back from a painting to see its entirety.
  • Sensitivity – A multiplier that reduces the amount of mouse movement required to “look around” in-game. Many players choose a value between 4 and 10.
  • Relative Aim Sensitivity – Reduces base sensitivity to a percentage. For example, the default of 30 means your reticule will move 30% of the distance it would have if you were unscoped.
    • A value of 0 defaults to 30.
    • A value of 100 keeps your sensitivity unchanged when scoped.

You may choose whichever base sensitivity and DPI you like. There aren’t any specific requirements for these to achieve a 1:1 scoped feeling – though I would recommend halving your base sensitivity and doubling your DPI to reduce precision errors (the lack of decimals for relative aim sensitivity.) For me, that meant halving my base sensitivity from 8 to 4, and doubling my DPI from 800 to 1600. I could do this again to get 2/3200, and so on.

A frequently asked question: “What if my resolution is different? Should I use a different relative aim sensitivity?” In short, no. This is because your resolution and aspect ratio are calculated to the same value. Therefore, it is your aspect ratio that will dictate what your relative aim sensitivity should be.

My setup is 2560×1440 at 16:9.

Determining the Aspect Ratio

Okay, yes, the aspect ratio is configurable. Nevertheless, let’s calculate it anyway. The formula is as follows:

r = w/ℎ

Here r is the aspect ratio, and is determined by the width of the screen divided by its height. When two resolutions share the same aspect ratio, the results are the same. The 16:9 aspect ratio also calculates the same value as it’s a reduced fraction.

r = 1920/1080 = 2560/1440 = 16/9 ≅ 1.78

An issue arises when the aspect ratio is higher than your resolution or higher than the aspect ratio of your screen.

r = 21/9 ≅ 2.33 > 1920/1080 and 2560/1440

When this happens, we see black bars on the bottom and top of the screen. This is known as letterbox mode, and it’s running the game with your resolution, but under a different aspect ratio. This is why using the resolution to calculate relative aim sensitivity can be tricky or flat out wrong. What’s important is that the resolution and aspect ratio match.

Using the Aspect Ratio to calculate Field of View

We already know the field of view from the settings, right? Overwatch uses a field of view scaling technique known as horizontal plus. This means the game was designed for widescreens, and the vertical field of view is fixed. Therefore we can assume the menu setting for field of view refers to the horizontal field of view.

We need to calculate the zoomed field of view.

HFoV = 2arctan⁡[tan⁡(VFoV/2)(w/h)]
VFoV = 2arctan⁡(tan⁡(HFoV/2)(h/w)]

Notice that the inner term is multiplied by (w/h), the aspect ratio, when calculating the horizontal field of view. This is not the case for vertical field of view, and should make clear the reason why you want your resolution and aspect ratio to match.

In order to calculate the field of view while zoomed, we need a little bit of data. Specifically, we need a comparison of how an object looks in both cases. In the image below, the red text and lines are used for width, and the left and right edges when zoomed. The blue text and lines similarly show the height, and top and bottom edges when zoomed.

Unscoped View with Scoped View Box

Where did 960×540 come from? Initially I drew the lines by comparing the two images, then using some software measured the exact pixels. It was easy to verify their correctness by calculating the aspect ratio of 960×540, which coincides with 16:9. Now we can calculate the field of view, however we only know the horizontal field of view, so we must first find the vertical field of view.


VFoV = 2arctan⁡[tan⁡(103/2)(1440/2560)] ≅ 70.53
HFoV = 2arctan⁡[tan⁡(70.53/2)(2560/1440)] = 103


Here we use h = zoomed rectangle height, and w = unscoped width. This shows what the VFoV needs to be if the width were unchanged. After that, we use the new VFoV to find HFoV.

VFoV = 2arctan[tan⁡(103/2)(540/2560)] ≅ 29.70
HFoV = 2arctan⁡[tan⁡(29.70/2)(960/540)] ≅ 50.48

Therefore, we will assume 1 decimal of precision and round our zoomed horizontal field of view to 50.5.

Finding Relative Aim Sensitivity

You may have heard of this mysterious relative sensitivity of 38. Allow me to explain in a different way, and as we carry on I’ll show you why you might want a different value. My resolution width is 2560, and while zoomed I see only 960 of that.

Ratio of Widths = w_normal/w_zoomed = 2560/960 ≅ 2.67
Ratio of Widths = w_normal/w_zoomed = 1280/480 ≅ 2.67

Keep this ratio of widths value in mind as we continue. When unscoped, we can see the distance from the reticule to either red line is 480 pixels. However, when scoped, the distance to that same object on the line is 1280 pixels. Ultimately you would need to move your mouse over 2.5x more to set your reticule on that object. (or Tracer’s head, whichever).

So how do you get a 1:1 sensitivity? If we divide our HFoV by the quotient of these two resolutions, we get the percentage change in pixels with respect to our aspect ratio. When the ratio is maintained, we are able to produce this magical number!

Relative Aim Sensitivity = w_zoomed(HFoV/w_normal) = 960(103/2560) = 38.625
Relative Aim Sensitivity = w_zoomed(HFoV/w_normal) = 480(103/1280) = 38.625

Now here is the most common misunderstanding I come across. This sensitivity of 39 will feel 1:1, yes, but only for the objects within the same region. A difficult concept to explain, so I will use some images to help.

FoV Scoped with persisted View Box

In orange, I’ve highlighted a potential flick shot. Let’s calculate the angle of this turn in the horizontal axis.

θ = arctan⁡(480/720) ≅ 33.7

Therefore, your aim will feel 1:1 when scoped with a relative aim sensitivity of 39 when the angle of your turn is 33.7°.

At this point, we’ve seen how these numbers are calculated, and what their limitations are. Does your playstyle require you to flick more than 33.7°? 45°? 60°? I should note that when your relative aim sensitivity is lower than 39, the sensitivity is still 1:1 but the region in which that is true is smaller. Using our aspect ratio, let’s calculate what that is for a value of 30.

Relative Aim Sensitivity = w_zoomed(HFoV/w_normal)

Which rearranges to:

w_zoomed = ((Relative Aim Sensitivity)(w_normal))/HFoV
w_zoomed = ((30)(2560))/103  
w_zoomed ≅ 745.63

Also, we can get the height using the aspect ratio.

h_zoomed = (745.63)(9)/16
h_zoomed ≅ 419.42

FoV Scoped with persisted View Box at 30 RAS

The area is now smaller, meaning it’ll be easier to control your reticule in this space. The trade off is the amount of unpredictable movement it takes to reach the head of either training bot, as it’s not 1:1 outside this space.

θ = arctan⁡((w_zoomed/2)/720) ≅ 27.4

As before, your aim will feel 1:1 when scoped with a relative aim sensitivity of 30 when the angle of your turn is 27.4°.

Why then, is the default relative aim sensitivity 30? Since we’ve been using rectangles of equivalent aspect ratios, we can simplify our formulas so far.

θ = arctan⁡(Aspect Width/Aspect Height) ≅ 60.64

This gives us the angle to the edge of the screen, whether it’s scoped or unscoped. If we now divide this value by the ratio of field of view changes while scoped, we get back the relative aim sensitivity that matches the aspect ratio.

Relative Aim Sensitivity = HFoV_zoomed * (arctan⁡(Aspect Width/Aspect Height))/HFoV_normal 
Relative Aim Sensitivity = 50.5 * 60.64 / 103
Relative Aim Sensitivity ≅ 29.73

We want to know what sensitivity we should choose for a given angle, so we can rearrange this formula one last time:

Relative Aim Sensitivity = [Aspect Height * tan⁡(t)](HFoV / Aspect Width)


We have derived a formula that can calculate your relative aim sensitivity! As a bonus, it’s not limited to the resolution I’m using. It does require your resolution to have the same aspect ratio as the aspect ratio you’ve chosen in-game.

Relative Aim Sensitivity = [Aspect Height * tan⁡(t)](HFoV / Aspect Width)

Where t is the desired turning angle. Rather than have you calculate them, I have a few values calculated for a field of view of 103. Higher relative aim sensitivities allow you to turn faster, but come at the cost of a hard to control reticule for shorter flicks.

Therefore, it is recommended that you use 38.62 as your relative aim sensitivity. This will work for most people. Those with a steadier hand may enjoy the benefit of a higher value, and those oh-so-sweet headshots on out of view flankers. If you’re using a different aspect ratio, the turning angle will be different. For the curious, the data below also shows why a lower resolution (1920×1080, 16:9) is preferred. The angle between you and your target is smaller! On larger screens, a larger angle must be taken.

In bold are the aspect ratio and relative sensitivity combinations that satisfy all of our criteria resulting in a 1:1 sensitivity.

Field of View 103

Degrees 16:9 16:10 21:9
5 5.07 5.63 3.86
10 10.22 11.35 7.78
15 15.52 17.25 11.83
20 21.09 23.43 16.07
25 27.02 30.02 20.58
30 33.45 37.17 25.49
30.96 34.76 38.62 26.48
33.69 38.62 42.92 29.43
35 40.57 45.08 30.91
40 48.62 54.02 37.04
41.63 51.49 57.22 39.23
45 57.94 64.38 44.14
50 69.05 76.72 52.61
55 82.74 91.94 63.04
60 100.35 111.50 76.46


Q: Why does everyone say 38?
Very likely due to rounding, it’s a short step from 38.4 to 38.6. Alternatively, one could argue that 38 feels better being short of your mark rather than 39 being over it. That 1% difference grows larger when your base sensitivity is higher, leading some to choose 38. I did some testing with doubling my DPI and halving my in-game sensitivity. Feels smoother overall, and doing this will reduce errors on that 1% gap. As a bonus, my mouse DPI now matches its native setting.

Q: What do you use?
I use a relative aim sensitivity of 38.62.

Q: What base sensitivity and DPI should I use?
Whatever you like! No matter your settings, the calculations to produce your relative aim sensitivity don’t include those values, and it’s just that – relative!

Q: Does this work on console?
Yes, the console runs at 1080p, which is 1920×1080 with an aspect ratio of 16:9. This is all we need to find a ratio perfect relative aim sensitivity.

Azur Lane Comprehensive Starter’s Guide By: SerenitydotCS


This guide will focus on a non-linear manner of the early/mid game.

This guide does not have to be read in its entirety. Think of it as a reference. However, you will only benefit from reading the guide, and I promise it won’t take as long as the page numbers tell you.

Press View -> Show Document Outline to bring up the pseudo table of contents for this guide. I’ll be labeling each section pretty clearly.

Even if you don’t read the guide at all, please take away these few things:

  • This is a game, play it like a game.
  • There is arguably no bad ships, each ship has a niche to fill, thus it is extremely hard to quantify each ship’s “tier”. There are however better ships for certain roles.
  • Enjoy the game. I made the mistake of trying to clear through everything ASAP, actually follow the story. Mess around for your first few days before you start hard grinding.
  • Bind your account to facebook/twitter, you don’t want to lose your hard earned progress because of some unfortunate accident.
  • San Diego is absolute garbage.
  • Ok to be fair I just don’t like her that much, after retrofit she is pretty insane.

Then without further ado, I present you with SerenitydotCS’ Comprehensive Azur Lane Guide!

General Interface


Tap Akashi () twice a day until she stops giving you things. You can start the questline to obtaining Akashi by tapping her 30 times. I advise you do this immediately.

If you are a whale, you do you.

If you are not, good for you too.

Either way I advise you spend your gems in these priorities:

  1. Extra dorm slots
  2. Rings/Dock Space (Rings if you don’t care about collecting everyone).
  3. Skins
  4. Third Slot in Academy

Do not spend gems on Gold/Gems/Quick Finishers—these can be obtained readily. With proper management it should really be unnecessary to waste resources here anyways.

Press the bottom left again will take you to the Supplies shop, including essentially a gold/gem shop and a munitions shop.

Rules of Thumb for the Supply Shop:

(Guild Shop)

  • Buy any gold boxes (tier 4) with coins you see until your commander is level 50.
  • Eagle Union boxes are good due to the fact that they have SG Radars, something that is pretty hard to farm. And mostly everything in the American box is worth using.
  • Royal boxes notably drop the Barracuda (Bannannnnaa), it’s agreed to be the best torpedo bomber in the game.
  • After level 50, it is really up to you, but I would only buy discounted gold boxes if you see them, as you have many other places to spend gold on, and you should really only be using merit at this point to buy equipment boxes.
  • Buying purple food, cubes, and T3 skill books are worthwhile when having an excess of gold.

(Munition Shop)

  • Begin saving your merit points for South Dakota immediately.
  • Once you get South Dakota, save for Eldridge.
  • Buy Golden Bulins afterwards.
  • It’s up to you whether you want to hoard points, but Gold Boxes and Cubes are worth buying depending on your progress.


This is where you’ll see all your ships!

You can equip your ship girls here with equipment.

This is also where you level, enhance and retrofit your ships.

What are retrofits?

They are essentially a “remodel of ships” usually they provide a healthy boost in stats and a new skill. And in special cases will change the hull type of the ship. I cover retrofits in my ships section.

What are limit breaks?

  • Allow for you to break the level cap of 70.
  • Gives your ship a boost in stats and power (such as extra torpedos, guns, high gun efficiency, etc.).
  • Increase oil cost (more on this later in the guide).

What are enhancement?

These just increase the stats of your ships. Throw all the commons you don’t use into the enhancement tab for the ships you use whenever you can. Never use blue+ ships for enhancement, only white ships should be used because of retiring (more on this later).

What gear should I equip?

Scroll down to the equipment section (or use the document outline!)


This is where you can browse your items, gear, and designs.

You can think of designs as fragmented gear:

  • 5 blue (R) designs are needed to create a single blue gear.
  • 10 purple (SR) designs are needed to create a single purple gear.
  • 15 gold (SSR) designs are needed to create a single gold gear.

What does gear do?

It’s basically equipment for you shipgirls. It boosts their stats, though different shipgirls will have different efficiency for each type of weapon.

How do you get gear?

Through obtaining blueprints—drops from clearing maps, or opening boxes.

After early game, where you are very gear starved, only gold, purple, and specific blue gears will be used.

So…What do this mean?

  • Never ever open white (tier 1) or blue (tier 2) boxes, this is because they both drop white gear. Which is positively useless to you.
  • Instead, you can combine 5 lower tier boxes to make a higher tiered box all the way up to purple boxes (tier 3). It is strongly advised you only open purple (tier 3), gold (tier 4), or red (tier 5) boxes.
  • This also means it’s safe to recycle white gear.

Where do you get boxes?

You can obtain tier 4 and below boxes from simply clearing maps and doing missions. While tier 5 boxes are exclusively 3-star clear rewards for high leveled maps, we’ll touch more on that later.


Your canteen generates oil passively, while your merchant generates gold passively. Upgrade both to their level cap whenever you are able to.

The tactical classroom is what is really important.

Your ships level up their skills in the classroom. This is a vital part as most skills get a large boost in power between level 1 and level 10.

Rules of Thumb for the Academy:

  • Use the corresponding skill book to skill type. Meaning use blue (defensive) books on defensive skills. This is because correctly matched skills will get 150% exp.
  • Combine T1 skill books into T2 when you have them in excess. Prioritize using higher tiered skill books when you don’t have the time to log on every so often to refresh your training.
  • It doesn’t matter what order you level it, some ships should have priority. But you end goal should be to level all the ships you want to level 9, as you experience diminishing marginal returns at level 10. The fastest way to achieve this is by using the corresponding skill book type and getting the most exp.


Your dorm allows for your ship girls to passively gain exp and affection.

You should prioritize spending your gems to get more dorm slots.

Having 5 dorm slots will allow your girls (at commander level 0) to gain 332 exp more per hour than 2 dorm slots. At level 70, you would get 1494 exp more per hour!

Rules of Thumb for the Dorm:

  • Always buy Naval Curry when buying food. This is because it provides +5% bonus exp. All other foods that provide this exp costs gems.
  • Start saving your house points for purchasing expansions.
  • Purchase limited time furniture after all expansions are purchased.
  • Then you can spend it on whatever you want.


Collect mission rewards here, do your dailies everyday. Nuff’ said.


There are four tabs, build orders, exchanges, and retire.

I recommend new player build constantly for their first week of the game.

You should prioritize: Limited > Heavy > Special > Light

  • Limited is just as it sounds. It’s usually for an limited event. Ask around on the discord server to get an idea of whether the ships are good and worth pulling for.
  • Heavy is built for only one reason: Hood. HMS Hood is a broken ship that everyone should have. See more on Hood in my ships section.
  • Special is built for only one reason: Enterprise. USS Enterprise is a broken shit* that…yeah you get it just go check the ships section for more info.
  • Light is not prefered in my opinion as most of the good ships in the light categories can be farmed in maps. However, it is always helpful to get ships like Helena early on, as you’ll level her eventually.

Use quick finishers however you want to, don’t use them on your daily builds though. I usually reserve them for satisfying mass event pulls on each events launch date to get the ships I want in order to start leveling earlier.

Rules of Thumb for the Exchange Shop:

  • Retire any purple/blue ships safe to retire for medals. Keep at least one copy of every other ship.
  • Keep at least 80 medals of honor at all time in order to exchange for the SSR on rotation.
  • Always buy the gold bulin that pops up in the shop.
  • It is up to you whether you have the medals to spare for retrofit blueprints. Keep in mind most people will have a destroyer blueprint shortage, as there is just too many good damn destroyers to retrofit.


This shit is absolutely useless for the foreseeable future. You’re on discord anyways, so complain about pulling Sandy over there.


This is your top right.

(If anyone on Sandy wants to add me, my UID is 202252828)

It shows your data and allows for you to change your secretary.

Your secretary will passively gain affection for you until affection 90. Meaning switch off between waifus after each one reaches 90 (or just keep your favorite waifu, no one really cares about this one.)


You get rewards for collecting waifus!

Notable Collection Rewards (the only useful ones):

  • Gems
  • Pearl’s Tears
  • Beaver Squad Tag
  • Wichita
  • Golden Torpedo
  • Ayanami


Allows for you to edit your fleet formations.

For those like me that didn’t discover this till halfway through the campaign, you can press details, then the character to access their equipment page instead of navigating all the way to dock.

Oh, and you can also drag and drop characters to change their positions (I know, I was real smart).

I touch on good fleet formations later in the guide.

General Mechanics

I will cover general mechanics of the game here. But if there is any take away here, it would be—USE YOUR OIL EFFICIENTLY.

Attack Mechanics

Your first clear on every map should be to clear every single node/ship that spawns on the map before hitting the boss.

Do not walk into any mystery nodes on your first clear, as a ship carrying gold may spawn, messing up your ammo amount on many maps for a full clear.

After that, you will enter what is known as the “farming phase” to either:

  1. Get that 3 star.
  2. Get drops from the map.

Rules of Thumb for Farming Phase:

  • Rush the boss node, this is because SSRs and most of the drops will be dropped in the boss node. The boss node also guarantees a ship drop.
  • Always get an S-Rank, as you are guaranteed drops by an S-rank.
  • Fighting at 4+ ammo gives you extra damage, while farming at 0 ammo will cut your damage in half.
  • You cannot be ambushed/airstruck over sunken ship or friendly fleet nodes, use this to your advantage.
  • It is better to exit a battle than to lose a battle. You’ll be partially refunded oil if you quit. Getting miniscule exp is not worth the oil cost.

Rules of Thumb for Hard Mode:

  • You get 6 hard mode tries per day.
  • There will be required hull types.
  • Only one hull type requirement per backline/frontline per fleet is needed to be fulfilled.
  • Each hard mode node will spawn drop different retrofit blueprints:
  • X-1 drops destroyer.
  • X-2 drops cruiser.
  • X-3 drops battleship.
  • X-4 drops carrier.
  • You should try to use all 6 tries a day, as this will quickly become your only source of retrofit blueprints.

Rules of Thumb for Daily:

  • Do the highest level daily you can do everyday for 3 times.
  • On sundays, do all of them 3 times.

Rules of Thumb for Commissions:

  • You should always have 4 commissions active at any given time.
  • The high oil cost commission should be used to passively level ships you do not currently use.
  • Prioritize commissions with better rewards over exp.

Leveling Mechanics

SerenitydotCS, How do I level?

Let’s get a few basic leveling mechanics out of the way first:

  • You will get reduced exp for fighting ships that are too low in level.
  • Your commander exp depends on the number of ships in your fleet, the level of your enemies, and the rating you get. The more ships per battle, the more exp you recieve.
  • Your leveling efficiency highly depends on oil. Smaller ships use less oil. Usually Battleships > Battlecruisers > Carriers > Light Carriers/Heavy Cruisers > Light Cruisers > Destroyers.
  • Limit breaking a ship will increase its oil cost.

Commander Levels:

Why should I level my commander level you say? Because at commander level 70, you unlock the highest level daily event, which gives tier 3 skill books and tier 4 tech boxes. This will be your major source of progression in these areas. So it should be in your best interest to reach commander level 70.

Strategy for farming commander levels:

  • Farm a map within 20 levels of your player level (For which maps to farm check out my maps guide below).
  • Using a full fleet is a big no no (unless it’s fletcher’s fleet).
  • Use a 1:1, usually a cruiser (notably Phoenix) in combination with a battleship/battlecruiser (notably Hood).
  • Add 2 limit break 0 white (common) destroyers (Cassin and Downes are highly recommended) to your fleet.
  • The two destroyer will only use 1 oil each, while increasing commander exp gained by 18 exp. That’s 9 exp per oil. Which is highly efficient.

Ship Levels:

Why should I level my ships you say? Because that’s the entire fucking point of the game sweetheart. You want those strong, cuddly, waifu-like botegirls—alright I’ll get to the point.

  • Each time you clear a map, you will receive a base EXP value, we’ll give that value the constant “x”.
  • Ships with >120 morale will earn a 20% bonus.
  • The flagship (middle backline) will earn 1.25x exp.
  • The MVP will earn 2x exp.

So what do I do with all this information? You could process it and come up with a leveling plan yourself.

Strategy for farming ship levels:

  • Have a single backline ship that you made sure can tank the damage on the map you’re farming (or kill wipe the map fast enough). Rule of thumb would be ship level at around level 50. Take the world number, subtract 4 and you’ll get your recommended limit break level.
  • Have a single higher level ship. This will be your MVP ship.
  • Have another ship that’s low leveled, this will be your freerider.

Essentially, your backline will always receive the 1.25x exp from flagship, your MVP ship will always get MVP, and your freerider just gets free exp.

Once your MVP is high enough level, swap her with your freerider, and begin leveling a new freerider.

Once your Flagship is high enough level, swap her with another flagship.

However, new players should not use this strategy. It is much more important to level enough ships for two fleets. And commander level is much more important until level 50, where ship levels will be higher valued.

Anti-Air Mechanics

Anti-Air in this game is one of the most complicated things. So let’s do this in a concise, straightforward manner.

You have 3 parameters in Anti-Air:

  • Range
  • Rate of Fire
  • Firepower


Average of all equipped AA gun range stats.

Rate of Fire:

Average of all equipped AA gun rate of fire + 0.5.


Calculated like any other girl. Base damage along with ship girl’s AA stats and efficiency.

These three parameter will show up during battle in the form of a circle. Only planes with their shadow in the circle will be fire upon, even by your backline.

What does this mean? It means that high range and damage is prefered in auto farming. Because there is an extra 0.5s delay added to all rate of fire, while it takes the aircraft around 4 seconds to cross the map to your backline. Add that to your AI’s tendency to not want to shoot down aircraft, you get the most consistent result with high range and damage in auto farming.

AA is almost useless in PvP (exercises), as in PvP most aircraft simply have too much health.

Retrofit Mechanics

Retrofits will:

  • Not increase oil cost.
  • Increase overall stats.
  • Increase weapon efficiency.
  • Add a new skill (usually).
  • Give you much better artwork (just go look at Exeter).

You can check the materials needed for each ship retrofit specifically here.

But in general:

  • White Ships take around 13x white blueprints and 18x blue blueprints.
  • Blue Ships take around 17x white blueprints, 14x blue blueprints, and 1x gold blueprint.
  • Purple Ships take around 13x white blueprints, 13x blue blueprints, and 10x gold blueprints.
  • San Diego takes 20 Tier 3 Blueprints.

This is the order in which you should retrofit on the EN server:

Laffey/Z23 > Ayanami > Shouhou > Fortune

Notable future retrofits include: Portland, Ning Hai, Ping Hai, Jintsuu (unreleased), Saratoga,and unfortunately San Diego is really damn good.

A notable exception to Retrofitting would be Fusou and Yamashiro. They trade their high damage and ability to kill suicide ships for a low damage airstrike. It is better to retrofit them up to modernization and just not completely retrofit them.

Map and Equipment Recommendations



Reduced exp at level 41.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 47.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 52.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 55.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 59.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 61.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 65.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 68.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 71.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 77.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 80.

Notable Drop:


Reduced exp at level 86.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 89.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 94.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 97.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 99.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 106.

Notable Drops:


Reduced exp at level 112

Notable Drops:


I try not to include event equipment.

HE – High Explosive

AP – Armor Penetration

DD Guns

CL Guns

CA Guns

BB Guns



Dive Bombers

  • Purple SB2C Helldiver—So easily accessible you shouldn’t be using any other dive bomber as it is unconditionally best in its slot.
  • Gold Comet—Arguably better than the Helldiver on Ark Royal, that’s about it.

Torpedo Bombers

Anti-Air Guns


  • Gold and Purple Steam Catapult—CV accessory staple. Every CV in your fleet should have one or two.
  • Purple Drop Tank—Replace a Gold Steam Catapult with one of these in PvP. Still better than Purple Steam Catapults in all situations.
  • Any Rarity SG Radar—Very useful in avoiding ambushes. Also useful in having the shots you take NOT be avoided.
  • Purple Repair Toolkit—Great for auto battling.
  • Purple Autoloader—You can never get enough of these. Increases the DPS of any ship you put it on (torpedoes as well). However, they are not fantastic on battleships in practice as most battles don’t last long enough for the extra reload to equate to an extra volley.
  • Blue Fire Extinguisher—DO NOT TRASH THIS. Extremely useful anti-HE solution in auto mode. Mostly used on CLs running a 1:1 fleet.
  • Gold Ship Maintenance Crane—Keep two for Akashi and Vestal. Recycle the rest.
  • Little Beaver Squadron Tag—Increases movement speed of all ships by 20%, gives highest evasion stat in the game. Do I need to say more?

Maplestory 2 Guide to Exploration Stars


Maplestory 2 Guide to Exploration Stars

Every area in Maplestory 2 has Exploration Goals. Each of these goals rewards players with anything from equipment to consumable items and even Maplestory 2 mesos. The in-game world is so huge that exploring it can be time-consuming.

While there are many goals, a majority of them will ask you to do pretty much the same things as in another area. More than half of all the areas will ask you to find and interact with binoculars, for instance. Because of that, we’ll tackle what each goal asks players to do.

Enjoy the Scenery

This is the single most common exploration goal. The most usual iteration is ‘Enjoy the scenery of [area name] through binoculars’. There will be areas without binoculars, but those are few and far in between. Sometimes, the game will word it as ‘enjoy the scenery while [activity]’. It may make you use an emote, usually the /sit one or it’s a [do an activity] goal disguised as an ‘enjoy the scenery’ one.

For the locations of the binoculars, check out this [https://gameplay.tips/guides/3203-maplestory-2.html] guide!

Speak with [NPC Name]/Ask [NPC Name]

These two goals are together because they have the same aim: To get the player to talk to a certain NPC. Be sure to select the appropriate dialogue option, as receiving a quest from the NPC will not count. It’s ‘Talk’ when asked to speak and ‘[topic]’ for the ask objectives. The NPCs aren’t hard to find, but if you’re having trouble, the guide linked above can help.

Perform for [number] minutes

Once you get to a certain level, a composer will appear and give you a tutorial on composing and performing songs. Perform somewhere in the area for the length of time on the objective to complete it. Some goals may ask you to play with friends, and some areas may restrict performing unless in a specific place.

Travel by [Mode of Transportation]

The goal asks players to travel by either taxi or air mount. Taxi services will require some amount of mesos, so save up for these objectives. One efficient way is to save up, then use the taxi service to go to all of the areas that need it. Of course, you should’ve reached the necessary locations once before trying this method.

Another iteration of this objective is ‘Travel by air mount’ which only requires you to use an air mount and fly around for a set amount of time or distance.

Discover/Visit/Enter [Location or Landmark]

Straightforward and simple, all you have to do is to go to the location or landmark. Depending on how it’s worded, you might have to enter buildings or dungeons to complete the goal. One other iteration of this is ‘take a tour’, but it’s essentially the same as this one.

Ride a Mount

Another simple goal, you just hop on a mount and ride around the area.

Relax [by Action]/Sit and Enjoy

You can achieve this by having your character on a certain spot for about five minutes. Sometimes it asks you to use the /sit command. Take a break from playing, get up and drink some water. It’s that easy!

Swim for [Distance]

It’s exactly what it says on the tin. Swim for a set amount of distance. There’s one area where it would say ‘enjoy a cold bath’, but it’s essentially the same as this ‘swim’ objective. Some areas might ask you to swim in lava, though. Be sure you’re prepared before trying that one out!

Catch a [Fish]

Sometimes, it’s a specific fish. Other times, it would be enough to catch just anything at all. One thing that might hinder you is the proficiency restriction. Some areas might require your character’s fishing level to be higher than their current level, so beware.

Examine/Check/Read Inscription on [Landmark or Location]

This is a rather difficult objective, as some of these landmarks don’t have an obvious interact-able object on them. Others have a well-hidden object to interact with. At any rate, guides can help you find these objects so you can complete these goals.

Open Chests

Depending on the area, this could be wooden chests or gold chests. The number also depends, as some require only one while others require more. Gold chests usually have a hint where they’re located. However, the clues can still be a bit vague. Remember that you can always ask for help.

Attack with/Throw [Object]

The silliest objective in this list, it asks the player to pick up an object and throw or swing it at an enemy. While that’s not funny, it becomes funny when the object in question is a shower or a house. Though a few areas might list the object as a ‘glacier house’ it actually refers to an igloo.

Get [Specific Ore] from an Ore Vein

Another relatively straightforward task, mining the veins in the area should let you complete this one. The only thing that might prevent you from completing this is having a too low mining level to gather that specific ore. Return later to complete it if that happens.

Defeat [Enemy]

Yes, it’s that simple. Sometimes they’re the normal mobs roaming the area, other times they are bosses inside dungeons. Make sure you’re properly geared up and in the correct level range for what you’re trying to defeat!

Other Goals

The rest of them don’t appear as often as the ones we’ve mentioned, so they’re in this category. They range from the easy (‘break [x number] of things’) to the challenging (‘fly for 10 seconds while holding Griffina’). Some would even ask you to fall from a specific height, or just hang around walls or ladders. They’re rather straightforward so you can easily figure out what to do.

Now that you know about all these goals, you can go and earn your stars for all the great rewards! Go and explore the world of Maplestory 2.


Summary: A summary of what is required for the exploration goals in Maplestory 2. It will help you get those rewards, especially the Maplestory 2 mesos. So get out and get exploring! These goals won’t accomplish themselves if you don’t do anything.

Complete Underwold Gate Tomb Peruvian Jungle Shadow of the Tomb Raider


To complete the Underworld Gate tomb in the Peruvian Jungle in Shadow of the Tomb Raider turn the pillar so that the rope wrapped beam faces to the left. Use a rope arrow to make a path to the cliffs ahead and go to the cliffs. Use the wooden beam to move the crane backwards. Go back to the pillar at the start and turn it back the other way. Use a rope arrow to attach the weight to the rope wrapped beam and jump over to the weight and back over to the bottom of the crane. Move the crane back to its original position and quickly jump back over to the weight. On the other side go through the area and climb up to the end of the Underworld Gate tomb. .

As found on Youtube

Get to Top of Pyramid Underground Temple Hunter’s Moon Cozumel Shadow of the Tomb Raider


To get to the top of the pyramid in the underground temple in Hunter’s Moon in Shadow of the Tomb Raider use a rope arrow to clear the gate and push the cart through the gate. Climb the stairs to the left and jump across to the bell counterweight. Use the other bell counterweight to get to the other side and follow the passage. Use a rope arrow to get across to the next corridor. Go down the corridor and jump across to the bell counterweight and then to the rough stone. Go up to the cart on the right and push it down. Use the pulley to turn the cart so that you have the rope wrapped wooden beam facing you. Attach a rope arrow to the rope wrapped beam and use the pulley to pull the cart up and release the cart.

Use the platform on the right to jump up to the bell counterweight and then quickly jump across to the ladder. Make your way to above the pyramid and use the rough stone to repell to the top of the pyramid. .

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Complete Judge’s Gaze Tomb Mural Peruvian Jungle Shadow of the Tomb Raider


To complete the Judge’s Gaze Tomb in the Peruvian Jungle in Shadow of the Tomb Raider first you need to get past the statue. Climb the rocks on the right and jump over to the weight to raise the statue. Follow the path until you get to the Judge’s Gaze tomb. Move the cart on the left out from under the weight and push the cart towards the ladder.

Pull the other cart under the weight you have just raised. Attach the left side of the ladder to the lowered statue using a rope arrow. Climb up to the weight on the left and jump over to it to lower it into the cart. Move the other cart under the still raised weight. Use a rope arrow to attach the right side of the ladder to the statue in the air. Walk up the ladder and climb up to the raised weight and jump over to it. Climb up the ladder to complete the Judge’s Gaze tomb.


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Open the Gate Eye of the Serpent Cenotes Shadow of the Tomb Raider


To open the gate in Eye of the Serpent in Cenotes in Shadow of the Tomb Raider use a rope arrow to attach the pillar of the middle serpent to the pulley. Turn the wheel on the pulley to swing the middle serpent to the right. Go up the path to the right and use the middle serpent to climb up to the top serpent. Clear the rubble around the base of the top serpent. Go back down to the pulley and use a rope arrow to attach the pulley to the top serpent. Move the top serpent so that it is letting water flow into the middle serpent. Use a rope arrow to attach the pulley to the middle serpent and turn it all the way to the left so that it is letting water flow into the bottom serpent. If you need to use a rope arrow and the pulley to turn the bottom serpent so that it is letting water flow onto the wheel.

Make your way to the other side through the turning wheel in the middle of the area. Jump into the pool and clear the rubble at the base of the lower serpent. Use rope arrows and the pulley to adjust the position of the two serpents so that water flows onto the wheel. .

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Get your Gear Rough Landing Peruvian Jungle Shadow of the Tomb Raider


To get your gear back in rough landing in the peruvian jungle in Shadow of the Tomb Raider go up to the plane. Go down into the pond and swim down to the plane and grab a sharpened object. To collect salvage to sharpen the knife walk around the area and find salvage boxes. Once you have found 3 return to your camp and craft a knife. Go back to the pond area and cut both ropes holding up your gear. .

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Find White Queen Brave Adventure Peruvian Jungle Shadow of the Tomb Raider


To find the white queen in brave adventure in the Peruvian Jungle in Shadow of the Tomb Raider use the two wheels on the globe to set the location to 90 East and 30 North. Climb up the ladder and make your way around to the other side and use the wheel to open the wings of the plane. Go back down and move the soldier with the shield on the right side of the room forwards. Move the other pieces out of the way and then move the other red soldier to the other area highlighted in red.

Go back to the globe and turn one of the wheels a little. Move any pieces out of the way and then move the white queen into the doubly highlighted red area. .

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Complete San Cordoba Tomb Cenotes Shadow of the Tomb Raider


To complete the San Cordoba tomb in Cenotes in Shadow of the Tomb Raider push the cart out of the way of the canon. Push the canon down to clear the path. Kick the raft into the water and use it to climb up the ship. Use the lever to move the canon above the weak planks. Jump into the water and swim to the front of the ship and climb up. Go over to the side of the ship and jump across to the cliff. Make your way around and jump back over to the ship and free the mast using the crank. Climb the mast and make your way back to the cliff. Climb around and get back to the middle of the ship and drop down.

Use the lever to move the mast so that the beam points towards the box. Go around the mast and climb on a box and jump to the beam. Climb over to the box, jump across to the front mast and climb up the mast. Use a rope arrow to make a path to the front of the ship, use the crank to release the canon and go down the rope. Drop down into the captain’s cabin to complete the San Cordoba tomb.


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Solve Sumaq’s Murder Investigate Sumaq’s Murder The Hidden City Shadow of the Tomb Raider


To Solve Sumaq’s murder in investigate Sumaq’s murder in the Hidden City in Shadow of the Tomb Raider talk to the musician down stairs to get the crowd to disperse. Once inside be sure to talk to the 6 people down and upstairs until you no longer enter cutscenes by talking to them. Also examine the body. Walk past the lady in the back area and around the back of the house. Climb around until you get into the servant’s room. Examine any further evidence. Then go back out the house and turn left. Dig in the earth until you find a knife. Go back to the guard and inform him of your findings.


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