– One of my favorite controllers of all time was called, The Razor Onza, for the Xbox 360. It was like an elite controller before elite controllers existed. When you plugged this thing in, you could actually feel the input leg diminish. But one of the coolest features to me were the click-y face buttons. It’s not something you see in game controllers anymore, really.
Probably because it broke very quickly after I got it. But I’d been messing around with keyboards and different switches and stuff, so my thick click obsession has just magnified. And now I decided to take that obsession into my pro controller.
And I got myself a bunch of tactile, micro switches to play around with. And in the end, we ended up with a pretty sweet feeling and a looking pro controller.
And I finally went ahead and got myself a soldering iron. This ended up being quite the journey for me, But in the end I did get that satisfying click I’ve been looking for. I can now happily throw these membrane buttons in the trash. (soft electronic music) (buttons clicking) This video is sponsored by Curiosity Stream. This is like really juicy.
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(soft guitar jazz music) Ayy. (hip hop jazz music) So a pro controller, and pretty much every other game controller you’ve ever used, has a little rubber membrane under the button. And it feels fine. And it’s probably natural to you. But it is mushy, because you are pressing a piece of rubber under the button.
So that’s how it’s making the connection.
It’s got to push through all of these things and that’s why it feels mushy, because it’s literally mushy. You’re mushing it. Something like an Xbox One or an Xbox Series X controller feels a little more click-y, but that’s still going to be a membrane. Once you feel a tactile switch, you’re not going to want to press anything else.
(whirring) – Oo. Oo! Oh, this is nice. – [Bob] Press the button. (button clicking) So this started with the idea of getting the pro controller buttons to be just a little bit clickier.
And it ended with a couple of different mods being thrown in here and a slight beautification.
It was a relatively easy thing to do, aside from the face buttons, but we’ll get to that. Luckily, the pro controller is very easy to take apart. Unlike the joy con, which are a bit more intricate and they’re a, what do you call it? (stammering) Yeah, a pain in the ass.
But as far as the button mod goes, picking up a soldering iron is a little bit intimidating. And the area that you need to solder is a little bit small, but all in all, it really wasn’t so bad and it’s a little bit forgiving.
So here’s all the stuff you’ll need, if you want to do what I did today. (clang) You need some micro switches and the eXtremeRate click-y hair trigger kit for the triggers. You can just use micro switches like we do for the face buttons, but it’s way easier to just do this.
And for what it’s worth, this is the soldering iron kit I got. If you want to do the extra cosmetic stuff, I got some eXtremeRate shells, the white buttons, white thumb sticks, some metal files and some plastic scraping. I’ll link all of this stuff that I used in the description below. Those links will help support this channel. Thank you very much.
You may also want a drill and a tiny screwdriver. The eXtremeRate kit comes with some chintzy little screwdrivers. This sounds like an eXtremeRate ad, ’cause I’ve used a lot of eXtremeRate stuff. It’s not, they were just the easiest ones to get.
Again, the focus here is on the face buttons and those were some just generic buttons.
I used this kit that has 200 switches with 10 different types of switches, which is good because I didn’t know what we were going to want to use. The ones I settled on were the 3 by 6 by 4.3 white ones, because they’re almost the perfect height to completely replace the membrane. And they fit perfectly inside a pro controller button, so they click really well. It took a lot of trial and error to come to this conclusion.
Luckily, the soldering wasn’t so bad. There’s just two points per button, because the button needs to complete the circuit. That’s how buttons work. It’s just really tiny and my stuff moved around a lot. Look, I’m not used to soldering stuff and I’m sure the kit that I used isn’t that great, but it all worked out just fine, in the end.
If you’re new to soldering, I’m relatively new to soldering, this will probably be a fun project to get things going for you. As long as you’re not afraid to ruin your pro controller potentially, and maybe have a backup pro controller in case you do. If you’ve soldered a bunch of stuff before, you’re well versed and you have a really nice kit, then you’ll probably have a breeze of a time doing this. I’m just so happy for you. Just make sure that the switches are completely flat against the board so that the buttons are the perfect height.
The A button is a bit weird. It kind of slopes off the side of the controller. When I closed the case, the A button was a little too tight. To fix this, I drilled a little of the plastic away from the inside of the A button. That gave it a little more slack, allowing the case to close completely.
I can’t stress this enough, only remove a little bit, a very tiny bit of the plastic. I also gave a little bit of slack to the Y button, but that was probably a mistake. I actually took too much away from the A and Y buttons. There is very little margin for error. So to fix this, I added some height back with some super glue.
I also got a little impatient with the A button and I just put a little tiny piece of a gift card. A millimeter thick that added some height on the A button as well. And right now, it feels awesome. So if you’re going to want to do this yourself, just take that drill and remove a very slight little bit from the A button.
Try it out, close the case to see if he can press the buttons.
And if it’s still not doing it, remove a little bit more. And if you remove too much, there’s some ways you can add some plastic back. It also helped to not screw the screws in too tight when you’re closing up the case, or else it also might cause the buttons to stay pressed. I can’t stress enough, how perfect the spacing needs to be in order for this to work. And these switches just miraculously fit the bill.
It does help that you can drill away some of the buttons if need be, but since you don’t have mushy rubber to work with, which is way more forgiving, getting your sizes slightly off with these tactile buttons, isn’t so forgiving. It may take a few tries.
I took this thing apart around 10 times to get it right. (video game sounds) (clicking buttons) But in the end, you’ll be left with a nice satisfying click sound, that is way better sounding and more satisfying to press than even a brand new pro controller right out of the box. (buttons clicking) I’ve fallen in love with that tactile feeling for gaming, because you can hear and feel when a button is supposed to be pressed.
There’s no room for miss inputs here. It’s an immediate sensation and a bit of force feedback to let you know your inputs are working and they’re being read. (video game sounds) But I didn’t stop with the face buttons.
EXtremeRate makes a hair trigger kit for the shoulder buttons. It essentially just puts tactile switches under all of the shoulder buttons.
It’s very simple to do. It replaces the whole FPC board that’s up there. This wobbly looking thing. You also have to put clear pegs in the triggers, so that it makes a better connection with the tactile switches.
This mod takes no soldering at all.
So if it’s just the triggers you’re worried about, this is super simple to do. They call it a hair trigger mod. I mean the pro controller already has a pretty shallow trigger, but these are buttons, so it’s like you’re getting in there. At first, they felt really tight, but after playing for about a minute, now it works really good. You can hear the clicks are good.
They’re definitely more sensitive than the switches I’ve put in the face buttons. I don’t know if I would’ve wanted these switches in the face buttons, but they feel really good up here. Okay. I did some other stuff too. I got the eXtremeRate, blue shell and all white buttons.
I also got some metal files, in order to shave my own stick gate into the pro controller shell.
And I think I did a pretty damn good job for just eyeballing it. It’s what MultiShine does with their pro controllers. It looks like they just eyeball it too, honestly. One of the files in the kit that I got was like a long triangle and that fit perfect for making the little points in the stick gate.
But I didn’t realize that you could just buy a shell that has an octagonal gate in it already. So, I mean, just do that. And after all of that, you’re left with this kind of oddly blacktop. None of the cases that I could find allowed you to replace this middle plastic part.
So you’re always left with a black top to your pro controller, but that was completely unacceptable to me.
So I got some of this Krylon paint, which has been pretty (bleep) to me in the past, but honestly it worked fantastic here. I just did a few short sprays and two coats. I plugged in a random USB-C cable that I had, just to make sure the USB-C port was blocked from the spray. And I didn’t have painters tape, so I used some gaff tape. I sprayed it outside, so it was well ventilated.
It said it would be good to touch after about an hour, but it didn’t really feel like it, so I gave it a full night to dry, and I’m happy I did because now it’s definitely dry.
And now, finally, we’re ready to put it all together and play. Not only do we have a great feeling controller, with tactile feedback, but it’s a beaut. The eXtremeRate shell that I got is like a soft touch. I’m not sure if I would’ve gotten that, if I knew that it was soft touch.
I don’t want to all my gunk to get all over it, but kind of glad I did. It feels really nice. It also makes for a nice matte finish. Not only do the buttons give you a nice, tactile feedback, but so do the stick gates. The theme here is the feedback.
This controller gives you tactile feedback whenever you make an input at all, even with the analog stick. (video game sounds) (controllers clicking) If you wanted to go above and beyond, you can also add the same sort of tactile switches to the D pad. You might want to use a different type that’s in the kit, maybe some shallower ones.
I didn’t do that, because I’m never going to use the D pad as my primary input device on a pro controller, because it’s down here, and I don’t like the way that feels. If I’m going to be playing a 2D game, I’m going to be using either the 8Bitdo Pro 2 or my 8Bitdo fight pad thing.
I plan on barely using the D pad on this thing.
I mean, it’s smash brothers, it’s fricking emotes and stuff. But anyway, I’m very happy with what I’ve done here. And I’m excited to try this thing out with a bunch of different games and see how it works in the coming weeks. But what do you guys think about adding tactile switches to your pro controller, or any controller really, to get that nice feedback?
I’ve essentially made a pro, pro controller. Anyway, leave it in the comments below. At me on Twitter, any and all this other social media garbage. A lot of the footage you saw here was taken from twitch.tv/wulffden, where I live stream myself doing all of this stuff with a controller.
And that long live stream is being condensed into a short little video over on youtube.com/wulffdenclips. If you want to see more behind the scenes of how this controller was thrown together. Guys, if you’re in the Pennsylvania area in early October, I’ll be at TooManyGames.
That’s actually the weekend that the OLED switch comes out.
So I’ll be there hanging out with a bunch of other creators. I’ll be there Saturday and Sunday, because we’re going to try to make a video about the OLED switch. Also, thank you, Curiosity Stream for helping support this channel. So I don’t have to rely on the YouTube algorithm to help feed me for the week. And thank you for making it this far on the video.
The most important things you can do, to help support the channel, is just subscribe here. And share this video with a friend. A friend who maybe would like to do this for themselves, or maybe you can get them to do it for you. Thank you, guys, very much. Have yourself a very good week.
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